Cheshire Cat (motor, spinnaker, trapeze, trailer, righting)

7/5/17 Edit: It seems Photobucket decided to change their "policy" and now require a paid subscriptions (or ransom) to host 3rd party photos. $400 per year. So now all my photos below are no longer visible. Going to take me some time to find and transfer my photos to a new host site.

8/3/17 Update: I've decided to just make some folders and create links to my google photos. So photos are won't be shown directly in this thread but you can click on the links to photos below.

I am starting a thread to document my experiences and modifications to my 2002 Hobie Getaway. I've listed a few keywords in the title for anyone searching for ideas. I'll add to this little by little. For now I'll start with I grew up sailing with my family. My dad owned a 27' Catalina monohull and I learned as a kid. As a teenager, I had a Phantom (similar to a sunfish) but always admired the beach cats. Now with a family of my own, I decided to buy a used Getaway in Fall 2009. I live in Cheshire CT hence the name Cheshire Cat.

Learning to sail a cat:
It took a while to figure out about backwinding the jib (more on this later) to tack not to mention the boat does not automatically turn into the wind and stop without a hand on the tiller like monohulls.

Trampoline and Wing Seats:
The boat came with wings and the original sails and main tramp but the origonal forward tramp had been replaced by the previous owner with an aftermarket tramp. The aftermarket forward tramp stitching failed after about 4-5 years and I purchased another aftermarket front tramp with UV protection built into the material. In 2016 I replaced the worn out main tramp and wing seat covers with New Hobie brand. I added padding under the wing seat covers which was just a large yoga mat that I cut into 1 ft x 7ft strips and laced the wing seat covers over it.

Motor and motor mount:
I also purchased a Honda 2hp 4 stroke outboard which is still working out great (so long as I use ethanol free gas). I had one season (about 3 years in) where I had all sorts of trouble with it and it turned out to be water in the gas. Regular 87 octane from the gas station is not so good for these little outboards over time. The carb would start to gum up very easily. Trufuel (ethanol free gas) can be purchased online or at Walmart, Home Depot and the like for about $7 a quart. Expensive but I only need a quart or two for the whole summer. I use it in my snowblower now too and it's made a world of difference. I started a thread last year about a motor mount that I designed to replace one that I had originally designed.
Link to that thread here ---> https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=57851

Trailering and mast stepping:
Trailering from where I live to the water meant I needed to rig the boat everytime and usually solo so one of the first items I purchased was the Hobie Mast Stepper III (a bit pricey but well worth it for solo rigging). I noticed the trailer rollers were deforming the hulls where they sat on the rollers. They were single rollers and I thought about switching to double rollers but in the end (due to cost, those things are expensive), I switched to bunk boards and am very happy I did. I just removed the rollers and bolted an 8' 2x6 to the trailer crossbars. Then covered with bunk board carpet. The boat is light enough that I can pull it up on the trailer about half way and then use the winch to get it up the rest of the way. Even with rollers, I could not pull it all the way up by hand due to the incline of the boat ramp. This way the weight of the boat is spread out over a much large support area and my hulls recovered and are much happier now.

The boat should be semi balance over the axle with only about 7-10% of the total trailer/boat/gear weight on the trailer hitch of your vehicle. This keeps the proper balance so that the trailer does not sway while towing. You can accomplish this balance by moving the boat or gear forward or aft on the trailer and using a normal bathroom scale to measure your tongue weight. But first you will need to know your total weight by using a truck stop scale or local land fill scale of your vehicle by itself and then with the boat and trailer. You may need to resort to moving the axle forward or aft to obtain the proper balance but that would be a last resort. Not a big deal, just some nuts and bolt need loosening but you'll want to make sure when you bolt the leaf springs back up to the frame in the new location that the axle is square with the frame.

Trapeze:
In 2011 I bought the trapeze system which has been very fun. The kids loved it. I use it when sailing solo too on those windier days to help keep me upright.

Spinnaker:
Last winter I decided to replace the sails (14 seasons old) with the new seabreeze colors and then went all out and got the spinnaker kit too. And updated the hull graphics and installed new cooler/hatches. Just installed in summer of 2017. Sailed a few times with it and it does add considerable time and complication to rigging. Instructions for install were originally drafted by OttawaDave but I have since updated them to include my own experience and advice. A copy of the instructions can be found here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1zx0 ... sp=sharing



Righting:
Only had to do it once and a powerboat ended up helping me by tossing a line and pulling me upright. So I've never had to do it but I keep meaning to practice one of these days. I made a righting pole and rigged it up under the tramp and also have a righting bucket/bag.

Winter and in season storage:
I've done several things over the years from tenting to disassembling to now I have a "portable" car port from ShelterLogic.

Added a few post placeholders below for the above subjects. Will add pictures to the appropriate topics soon.

Here's a few pictures in the next post:

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

New sails and hull decals 2017

https://goo.gl/photos/BTenfKukNMCoX6BN7

_________________
2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Learning to sail, rigging and safety:

Cats handle differently than the monohulls I grew up with. Because there is no center keel, they don't turn the same way. I found out quickly that you need to gradually turn upwind and then when close hauled, you can complete the tack by leaving the jib sheeted and letting the backwind push the bows around. When the main battens snap over, you can let the jib go and re-sheet on the leeward side.

While cruising along, let go of the tiller and see what happens. The boat, if rudders are tuned correctly, will continue to sail along for quite some distance before stalling. Monohulls will almost immediately turn upwind and stall. This became a concern for me as I mostly sail solo and wondered what would happen if I accidently fell overboard. The boat would just keep going leaving me helpless. I thought about tethering myself to the boat but decided against that for 2 reasons. One, it would be a hassle having a line attached to me at all times and two, I might just get dragged along if I ever went over. So I now make sure to keep a hand on the main sheet at all times since if I ever went over, at least my last act before hitting the water would be to release the main. The boat should stall fairly soon after. Hopefully I'd be able to keep a hold of the sheet line but depending upon speed, maybe not. I also always wear a PDF and have a whistle and submersible marine radio on my person. If the boat did get away, at least I could signal or radio for help.

I also call my wife back on land every hour or two with my location and just to let her know I am alright.

Note to add some words on the main clew holes and mast rake.

_________________
2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Trampoline:

I replaced the main trampoline with another Hobie brand turquoise tramp in 2016 along with the wing seat covers. When I purchased the boat used in 2009, the previous owner had provided me with a brand new, not yet installed, aftermarket front tramp. The original Hobie front tramp was torn nearly in half. Not sure how that happened but I used the aftermarket tramp for about 3 years until the stitching gave out one day while I was rigging the boat and nearly fell through it. I have anther aftermarket tramp that has some UV protectant built into it and it has lasted so far, this is my 5th season with it. When it gives out, I will be going back to the Hobie brand as they just last longer. Also, both aftermarket tramps have been close weave like the main tramp and I now know the reason Hobie went with the open netting for the front tramp. Two reasons actually that I can think of: Less likely to stall or pitch pole on a wave breaking over the bow and if the boat flips, those tramps act as a sail making it more difficult to position correctly and right it. There was one day I was out in wind I shouldn't have been out it especially alone and I quickly realized it and lowered the sails since I had a hard time keeping the boat upright. Used the motor to get back to land but since I was going against the wind and waves, I felt like the wind was catching under the front tramp and was going to flip me over backwards.

The old wing seat covers and main trampoline were pretty worn after 14 years but still completely functional. Even the tear that was there when I purchased used in 2009 did not spread over 7 seasons after I purchased the boat (A testament to Hobie quality):

https://goo.gl/photos/v3zNgrtKQgprcJFr5

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Motor:

If you do not store you boat on a beach and need to trailer as I do, then you will find getting in or out of the launch can be tricky under sail sometimes. Especially with idiot power boaters (usually with a beer in hand) around or if the wind is too light or heavy or out of the wrong direction. Also if you need to navigate up river or through a marina. Where I launch is pretty exposed to open water but still every so often, I'll need the motor. Most times, I can sail away from the launch dock or back in and bystanders are usually impressed. What I normally do is this: If the wind is blowing from off shore, I can raise the main while docked and sail right off the dock. If it's blowing from behind me then that won't work. I will sometimes just unfurl the jib to get myself away from the launch a few hundred yards and then turn upwind and raise the main. Or the motor works too if wind is too light for just the jib. To get back in, I almost always lower the main upwind of the launch and then just limp back in with the jib. When I'm 20-30 feet from the dock, furl the jib and coast in.

The motor also comes in handy when you are a mile or two or more away from home and the wind suddenly dies. The 2hp Honda will get me moving at 6 or 7 knots for about 7 miles on a single quart tank of gas.

My motor mount thread:
https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=57851

_________________
2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Trailering:

I switched to bunk boards a few years ago due to hull deformation. It's pretty easy to do. Just remove the rollers and bolt in some 2x6 to span the distance between where the rollers were. I covered mine in bunk board carpet. It's actually no harder to move the boat on the trailer on bunks than it is on rollers. The boat slides very easily on the bunks. It helps that the bottom of the pontoons are pretty flat, not like the H16 which is banana shaped. I didn't need to angle the bunks down at the back end but thought about it before making the switch. What I do is back the trailer up to the waters edge. The tires just touch the water and the back end of the trailer overhangs the water. Then I push the boat off. Again, it slides very easily especially on a downward ramp. To get back on the trailer, position the trailer the same way, move the boat so the bows are lined up with the bunks, bounce the bows to aid with the lift to get them up on the bunks and then pull. I am able to get the boat about half way onto the trailer manually with little effort and then I attach the winch and crank it up the rest of the way. I don't dunk the trailer to keep the wheel bearings and electrical out of the salt water. Also, it's a steel trailer so salt is the enemy and I have sail bags, life jacket tote boxes and things on the trailer deck that I'd rather not dunk or have to remove.

_________________
2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Trapeze (post placeholder)

_________________
2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Spinnaker:

I've moved the ratchomatic blocks off the side stays and onto the front end of the wing seats. They are just tied to the large bolt on the end. The ratchomatics would not lock in place meaning I needed to hold the spin sheet all the time. I also did not like the strain those blocks put on the slack stay. I then ran the spin sheet to a new cam cleat on each end of the center spreader bar. I tested the functionality of this using the jib cam cleat before drilling holes to install the new cam cleats.

Regarding rigging and de-rigging: I keep most everything (not spinnaker related) I can rigged. The only thing I disconnect is the furler from the bridles to lower the mast. Everything gets coiled on the tramp and tied down for trailering. I tried to do this with the spin rigging but it was just a tangled mess. Also, sometimes on heavier wind days or if lots of passengers, I don't bother with it at all. So what I do is this: I keep the whole kit (bridles, pole, sail and bag, lines) all on the pole. I place it on the front tramp before raising the mast and run the spin halyard through all the blocks starting at the aft end of the snuffer bag where it's always tied to the 3 points on the sail. So routing is out of the back end of the snuffer bag, under jib sheet line on the main tramp, through the return pulley tied to the rear crossbar, through the halyard cam cleat (jaw end first when stringing from the stern forward), then through the block to block on the spin pole (the other side has the tack line), then to the halyard spring block (either on the center crossbar or on the spin pole near the mast base depending upon how you installed it), then up the mast to the halyard block on the top of the mast and back down where I tie it off to the front crossbar until later when it will be tied to the head of the sail). Once the halyard is routed to the mast head, I can raise the mast. Everything else for the spinnaker is done after the boat is off the trailer and into the water. The pole just sticks out too far and interferes with the trailer mast support while on the trailer. So, once I'm in the water, I will attach the spin pole bridles to the front cross bar (easiest to do before there is tension on them), then attach the pole to the bracket on the center crossbar, then pull up on the middle of the spin pole to attach below the furler. If the length of your spin pole bridles is preset, then you will easily create the pre-bend when attaching below the furler. Then I attach the halyard to the spin sail head and run the sheet lines, one end of which is always tied to the clew of the spin sail. When heading back to the launch, I will de-rig the reverse way so that the spin lines have one end tied to the sail and all are neatly coiled inside the snuffer bag with the sail. Spin bridles and tack line are disconnected from the boat and shackled in place mid pole. Then when I get to the dock, I don't have this spear sticking out in front and it won't interfere with putting the boat on the trailer.



Still learning but here are some pictures:

https://goo.gl/photos/zPrfEWRNroYDmpHVA

_________________
2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Righting (post placeholder)

_________________
2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Winter (and year round) storage:

I started with a used 7 year old boat. Tramps were already pretty worn. So summer storage was just outside exposed to the blistering sun and rain.

For my first winter storage solution, I tried to tarp the boat using above ground pool air pillows on the tramp to tent up the tarp. The air pillows kept deflating on me and even when they didn't, if it snowed, I needed to clear the snow so the weight was not on the tramps. The following winter, I used the mast for the top of an A frame I made with 2x3. Better but it was a project to build and dismantle each year and I still needed to clear the snow. The third winter, I decided to dismantle the boat and store all the parts in my garage. The only items left outside were the hulls left on their sides on the trailer with a tarp over them and the mast which was too long to fit in the garage so I installed a few large hooks under the soffit at the back of the garage. No need to clear the snow and the mast was protected from most of the elements. I did this for several years.

When I finally replaced the main tramp in 2016 I no longer wanted to leave it exposed to the summer sun day after day so I laid a 9'x15' tarp over the tamps and cut slits in it to let rain water pass through. I also covered the wing seats with individual tarp wraps just bungied on. This worked out fine but I was getting tired of unwrapping the boat each week for use and also assembling and dismantling for seasonal change. So for 2017 I did what I've wanted to do for the last few years and erected a carport. It's 12' x 28' with 8' wide door at 6'5" elevation. I needed the length to accommodate the mast. Most carports do not have a wide enough door at the top which was necessary to accommodate the wing seats.

This is my current shelter. After getting new trampoline last year I did not want to let the sun take it's toll on my investment. This will serve to protect from the summer sun, as well as pollen, fall leaves, and of course winter. It's a tight squeeze through the door but it fits nicely once inside. I just need to elevate the top of the mast at the stern of the boat so that the bottom of the mast that extends past the mast stand will clear the door when going in and out. I also ran electric out to it for lighting so it's easier to park and/or work out there after dark.

https://goo.gl/photos/YsTXn6eQAvFAof9v7

_________________
2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Misc (post placeholder)

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

place holder

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Beautiful. It's nice when some body puts so much love in something. I have just bought one 2007 getaway in Formentera Spain and we are also on the process tudela put it handsome. Aldough it's fortunately in very good condition. Kind regards and keep enjoying your passion.

morningsinger - Thanks but you lost me with "process tudela put it handsome". Probably lost in translation but I think you tried to say you are fixing up and making pretty your used 2007 Getaway. I'd love to see or hear about what you are doing. Post some pictures when you get a chance. Hopefully if the weather improves here I should have some pictures on the water soon.

Keith

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Sorry Keith, could you tell me how did you stamp the plate numbers and the beautiful name in the hull? Is it painting os stickers. I would like to put "CONDE" on the hull which will be the name of the boat and I am not sure what to use.