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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 8:42 am 
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I have a very long winded story that I will likely post later. If I can muster the courage to deal with the embarrassment. Until then I have questions about restoring a Getaway and would look forward to some help:

1. Mast - Does anyone have information on removing scratches from the mast? I understand it is anodized and some people choose to paint it. It seems cheap enough to gather all the parts and have them re anodized; though I'm not certain what would need to be removed and replaced for the mast (and other parts) to go through the process.

2. Blocks - Is there a way to refresh the blocks or is it best to just go ahead and replace? On our journey it seemed rather difficult to release the main sheet from the block.

3. Crossbars - This question is more about the alignment with the hulls. I watched Hobies video Part 3 and 4 on setting up the Getaway from the box. Seems simple enough. However I have a Getaway already set up and am more curious about aligning the crossbars. It seems that where the wings attach I have some sides protruding more than others. Aside from that I have the same questions regarding disassembly for anodizing. https://imgur.com/a/H6HdD

4. Sails - I know people highly rate SLO for replacements and others are strictly Hobie (seems mainly for racing the other boats). SLO offers a 5 oz. sail cloth. What is Hobies weight? Also if battens were ripped out of their pockets is this something you could have repaired by a sail tailor (not sure their title) or is a complete replacement generally required.

That's about it for now. Hoping people have some good ideas! I've done a lot of searching and can't find these answers.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 8:08 am 
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Location: Benicia, CA
Matt.S wrote:
I have a very long winded story that I will likely post later. If I can muster the courage to deal with the embarrassment. Until then I have questions about restoring a Getaway and would look forward to some help:

1. Mast - Does anyone have information on removing scratches from the mast? I understand it is anodized and some people choose to paint it. It seems cheap enough to gather all the parts and have them re anodized; though I'm not certain what would need to be removed and replaced for the mast (and other parts) to go through the process.

2. Blocks - Is there a way to refresh the blocks or is it best to just go ahead and replace? On our journey it seemed rather difficult to release the main sheet from the block.

3. Crossbars - This question is more about the alignment with the hulls. I watched Hobies video Part 3 and 4 on setting up the Getaway from the box. Seems simple enough. However I have a Getaway already set up and am more curious about aligning the crossbars. It seems that where the wings attach I have some sides protruding more than others. Aside from that I have the same questions regarding disassembly for anodizing. https://imgur.com/a/H6HdD

4. Sails - I know people highly rate SLO for replacements and others are strictly Hobie (seems mainly for racing the other boats). SLO offers a 5 oz. sail cloth. What is Hobies weight? Also if battens were ripped out of their pockets is this something you could have repaired by a sail tailor (not sure their title) or is a complete replacement generally required.

That's about it for now. Hoping people have some good ideas! I've done a lot of searching and can't find these answers.

Thanks!


1. Mast--just for cosmetics? Ask your local anodizer for specifics; you will have to remove the comptip and fittings and probably even the hound.
2. Blocks--try cleaning and penetrating oils; if it doesn't work you can always buy new.
3. Crossbeams--alignment; unless the crossbeams are bent, there's no way you could get them misaligned. Disassemble the boat completely and verify it is put together correctly.
4. Sails...I think hobie stock sails are 6 oz; but 5 oz will work fine. Batten pockets can be repaired and or replaced but the colors might be off.

If the boat is needing restoration, start first with the hulls. Ensure that there are no cracks around the area that the crossbeams attach (those are the highest stressed area and where some owners have developed cracks). Also verify the rudders remain true. Good luck.

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R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 8:19 am 
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Location: Moncton, New Brunswick, Canada
It's more important to purchase a boat and not a project as parts aren't exactly plentiful nor cheap.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 8:27 am 
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Matt,

The hulls and crossbars look OK to me. We see variances like this. The molds distort over time and the sleeves have to be adjusted. We have seen them slip at times, but they don't seem to cause big issues.

You would have to remove all the hardware to re-anodize. I would be surprised if you can find somebody with a tank that long?

All of the parts can be purchased from a dealer. The internal foam plug can be re-used. Just add a bunch of 3M 5200 around it when you reassemble.

The CompTip is a pigmented putty on the outside... like gel coat. You could paint with a vinyl spray paint.

The boat and aluminum actually looks pretty good to me.

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Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 9:35 am 
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tpdavis- Thank you. Any ideas for the penetrating oils to use? I think the blocks are in pretty good shape just want to get some deposits off of them and make sure they're tip top. I don't think I need to buy replacements - I missed a steal on eBay for new ones the other day miss timing the post. The mast would be for cosmetics, lots of scratches. Once again long story but I believe it turtled, mast detached and ran against a coral bed. Mast is stiff and straight just a lot of surface scratches not more than a fingernail in depth. There are no cracks and the rudders could use a once over in my opinion.

RobDek wrote:
It's more important to purchase a boat and not a project as parts aren't exactly plentiful nor cheap.


As I stated, "I have a long winded story...". The boat wasn't purchased really for a project. With its low price I should have been more critical in thinking something would need restoring (refreshing) but hey sometimes we shop with our hearts. I seem to build knowledge as I make mistakes in things I purchase as being new to sailing I wasn't fully aware what I should scrutinize and the seller always says "Oh no, that's totally fine" etc. All parts are easily refreshed, nothing requires full replacement aside from the sails.

mmiller wrote:
Matt,

The hulls and crossbars look OK to me. We see variances like this. The molds distort over time and the sleeves have to be adjusted. We have seen them slip at times, but they don't seem to cause big issues.

You would have to remove all the hardware to re-anodize. I would be surprised if you can find somebody with a tank that long?

All of the parts can be purchased from a dealer. The internal foam plug can be re-used. Just add a bunch of 3M 5200 around it when you reassemble.

The CompTip is a pigmented putty on the outside... like gel coat. You could paint with a vinyl spray paint.

The boat and aluminum actually looks pretty good to me.


Thank you Matt,

Glad to hear it looks all within tolerances. I still plan to go through it today and attempt to realign her on the trailer. I truly wish there were better ways to weld / smooth scratches in the Hulls. Very fancy cross weaving of the poly makes that near impossible from what I've seen in your previous posts. Despite durability this aspect has me leaning towards a fiberglass boat for my next one.

Is there any diagram for the inside of the mast? What is underneath the plug? There's a lot of water in the lower piece so I'm just going to remove the plug today and I guess I'll find out lol. I'm wondering what I can use if the plug is not reusable. I've spoken to a metal player about reanodizing, it's honestly surprisingly cheap and could do all the crossbars with it but once again I'm not sure what would need to be removed from those before they're dipped. Also with fingernail deep scratches on the mast, how much sanding would be too much? Not trying to sacrifice structural integrity for cosmetics. Maybe the scratches could be filled?

There seems to be a gouge in the comp tip. If anyone has how-to guides on someone refinishing theirs I would love to see it.

I will be documenting everything with photos. I will then likely make a thread once this is all said and done. All tips and advice are appreciated as I go down this endeavor of getting the boat sail ready again. If anyone has a used mainsail they would like to sell or donate I'll share the crazy story of how the Hobie Getaway Gotaway and what got us into this mess to begin with.

Thank you!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 9:47 am 
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We use a black felt tip pen to hide scratches in black aluminum. A sharpie. Simple solution.

You can not fill scratches. The aluminum would be stripped in a chemical bath before re-anodize. That would remove any fillers. The anodize is also a electrochemical process. Would not work with fillers. Sanding will show through the anodize as well.

Re-align?... not sure what you are attempting. The crossbars seat at the inside of the hulls... tighten the tramps and go.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 9:52 am 
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Sharpie sounds easy enough!

Sanding prior to the re-anodize wouldn't show through would it?

In the photos you can see that it appears off in places. Some places stick out more than others. Some places literally digging into the hull. I imagine if everything is loosened that it could be realigned to where the sides are even and one doesn't jut out more than the other. Is this incorrect?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 1:17 pm 
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Location: Benicia, CA
You haven't posted photos that I"ve seen, but were I U, I would take it completely apart. It isn't that hard (about an hour's work).

Then use a pressure washer on everything-don't forget the mast track and tramp tracks. Pressure washing rotomolded plastic is really awesome; it cleans up like new. Get the blocks and camcleats. It is a really simple boat. Any penetrating oil, sewing machine oil, light weight machine oil, even WD40 on the moving parts. Don't forget the jib furler and top swivel.

I'm not a cosmetics kinda guy. If it works, it's beautiful to me. Take the battens out of the mainsail and inspect for breakage. You might try hand stitching the batten sleeves so you can at least sail the boat without having to wait for next season. Scratches in the aluminum-sharpie works, but you can also just spray paint the whole thing after making some cosmetic repairs to the comptip. Personally, re-anodizing isn't worth the expense to me--I mean expense in time removing everything for prep, then reattaching everything (hate drilling out stainless pop rivets) and the comptip extraction/reinsertion is not something I'd want to do.

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R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 1:25 pm 
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Quote:
Some places stick out more than others. Some places literally digging into the hull. I imagine if everything is loosened that it could be realigned to where the sides are even and one doesn't jut out more than the other. Is this incorrect?


The stop plates on the crossbars determine the depth that the beams stick through. That is not adjustable.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 6:40 pm 
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Lots of great advice! All I'll add is use Satin Black spray paint, it will all look new and holds up well.

Hope you enjoy your boat!

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18' T16 Silent Lightning (16' T2 Hybrid)
11' H16 White Lightning
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 7:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2017 7:05 pm
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Location: Franksville, WI.
I have uses sharpies on scratchs on different things. Some of that cosmetic stuff bugs me. I sometimes go a step further. Knock off the high spots, fill with JB Weld which is gray in color. Before it is totally dry take some acetone or crc brakleen parts cleaner ( I use this stuff around the house on everything) on a paper towel & gently wipe off the excess, then sharpie. Steve C


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