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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 2:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:27 am
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Location: Cheshire, CT USA
Let's here about your day on the water and some pictures would be nice. I haven't been out yet this year. Still cool in CT and the LI sound is like 55 degrees. Wish it would warm up already.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 2:28 pm 
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Posts: 385
A couple of times. The last time we found a cool sandbar in low tide and then proceeded to break my rudder sheer pin. Tried sailing it with paddle for the rudder... didn’t work. Eventually limped my way over to a shallow area and changed it out. I had a fear of dropping my extra pin in the water so I didn’t want to change it in deep water. After that I bought a handful of pins to keep on the TI.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 2:56 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2018 2:54 pm
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Got the boat out last weekend. New Hampshire, so wetsuits all round.

This was our first sail of the H16 we bought at the end of last year.

Sorry about the picture quality. From a video

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 6:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 01, 2015 9:49 am
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Location: Eastern PA
Been out a couple of times. Didn't go to the lake last weekend because they were forecasting gusts in high 20s to 30. Wimped out. Went Monday when Windfinder was saying 12-13 steady and gusts to 20, but reality was barely any wind :(


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 9:54 pm 
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I completed repairs on the damage to my boat from hurricane harvey and was able to sail this weekend. Sorry, no pictures on the water. Unfortunately, I discovered one more piece of damage after repairing everything I knew about. There is a puncture near the base of my mast. Does anyone know if this can be repaired? And, half of the Hobie decal on my brand new jib was stuck to the window instead of the sail when I unpacked it. I tried to stick the letters back in the right place, but I don't think they will last long.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2018 6:24 am 
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Location: Cheshire, CT USA
Your sail colors look to be from the earliest model Getaways - 2001-2005 maybe. But look brand new. How'd you manage that?

As for the mast damage, Looks like the inside of the mast is hollow near the base. I believe they are aluminum which can be welded but not as easily as steel. I'd find someone who can weld aluminum and then remove the base, bend the puncture back into place, and weld a plate inside for strength. On the other hand, how much is a new mast? I have no idea, probably expensive but maybe a good time to replace if it's old.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2018 7:54 pm 
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My boat is a 2002 model, but I keep it in enclosed storage when not in use. I learned with my H16 that boats last a lot longer when kept out of constant sun exposure. :-) As I mentioned, the jib is brand new because the old one was destroyed in the hurricane (along with the storage building my boat was in). The main is still original. You can see it has some patches on the batten pockets.

The hobie mast is over $1500 new. My comptip broke off last summer and I replaced my mast with an older H16 mast with no comptip. You can see in the picture that it has an extra foot at the top. If I can't repair this mast, I will try to locate another old H16 mast and do the work again to make it fit on the getaway.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 1:59 pm 
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Location: Cheshire, CT USA
One more thought on your mast damage... Since it's an H16 mast and longer than needed, could you remove the base, cut off the damaged bottom 12" or so and then re-attach the base? Might have to relocate your tang/cleats/etc. but the old rivet holes could be sealed back up with epoxy or fresh rivets and some silicone.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 3:17 pm 
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Hi, yes we got 5 days in a row off the beach into the Gulf of Mexico 2 weeks ago. Then we had that tropical storm come through and it was just too rough (I used to never say that, but alas am not 25 anymore!). We saw a couple of large sea turtles out there (one of them twice). Summer is here! Yay!!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 6:29 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2014 1:30 pm
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Location: Benicia, CA
KeithB wrote:
One more thought on your mast damage... Since it's an H16 mast and longer than needed, could you remove the base, cut off the damaged bottom 12" or so and then re-attach the base? Might have to relocate your tang/cleats/etc. but the old rivet holes could be sealed back up with epoxy or fresh rivets and some silicone.


I vote for this solution if you don't need the extra hoist for your mainsail to fit. Otherwise you can sleeve over it with good pop rivets and sikaflex or 3M 5200--of course, you will need some aluminum of the same shape for the sleeve. Most masts of any length are sleeved nowadays. In fact, Hobie sleeves (that's what the comptip is all about, although Hobie doesn't do it like everyone else).

One tip for your mast base-instead of pop rivets you can just screw in some self tapping stainless bolts or capscrews. Don't really need self tapping if you can "grunt" regular bolts into holes you've drilled a little smaller than needed; stainless will make it's own threads in aluminum. Makes removing and replacing or just inspection easier.

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SeaRail 19
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Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 6:20 pm 
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Thanks for the suggestion. I do have extra length in my mast, but I will need to measure to see if there is enough to cut off. If I got that route, I'm not looking forward to moving all the hardware. Another problem is the channel opening where you feed the main sail in will be getting close to the tramp since I've already cut some of the bottom of the mast off.

I have my old comptip mast. The fiberglass top broke off, but the bottom aluminum section is still in good shape. Are you suggesting that somehow I could cut part of that off and use it as a sleeve?

Thanks,
David


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 6:55 pm 
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Location: Benicia, CA
yes you could if it is the same section (ie length and width). Just cut a segment so you overlap the damage by about 5-6" on top and bottom, cut out the mast track and use sikaflex to bed it to the mast over the damage (sleeve)...then drill and pop rivet the sections together. Wait for the sikaflex to dry (may take a few days), then file the edges of the cut section so you don't hurt yourself. You will need 2 rows of pop rivets on each side of the mast (not front) with a staggered pattern about 1.5-2" apart. That's probably overkill given that your damage is so low, but why take chances. TIP, use lots of masking tape around the sleeve since the sikaflex will ooze out and cleanup is a bitch--DO NOT let it get into your mast track!!

AND, if you decide to cut off the damage, it is simple to cut in a new mainsail feed, so don't let that dissuade you. It is probably about the same amount of work to shorten the mast and move the hound and replace the mast base as it is to sleeve over the damage.

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R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 1:00 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:27 am
Posts: 222
Location: Cheshire, CT USA
Some pics here which also include my new trolling motor to replace the Honda 2hp gas motor:

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipM ... wQVbODZDpI

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 5:46 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:27 am
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Location: Cheshire, CT USA
Was out last weekend and finally got a co-worker to join me. So of course the boat starts to fall apart as soon as someone besides me is on the boat. The tiller swivel where it connects to the rudder crossbar came apart on a tack. I guess the nut just worked loose. So I'm holding the hotstick as the hardware all sinks to the bottom. I was able to steer with the crossbar and beach it while I came up with a temporary fix for the rest of the day. Then while lowering the mast for trailering, my mast ball broke in half. At least it all happened on the same day and did not really hinder my sailing. New parts are in the mail. Should be all fixed in a couple days.

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