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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2018 2:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 11:27 am
Posts: 47
Hi all, I have been learning about mast set up lately. I recomend this fantastic article http://users.tpg.com.au/kkmiller/hobie/ ... _helm.html and also the series of videos from this amazing guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WVNaMW-Dy0&t=5s

Well the thing is that I bought a 2nd hand getaway from 2013 USA manofactured. The shrouds are not the originals and they are set at the very last hole and I believe some more tension should be added, but of course is not possible. Probably I should have them enshortened. I was wondering if some on could meassure the length of their orogonal shrouds or may be if Matt is "listening" post the data. Thank you and happy sailing for all.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2018 7:52 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2014 1:30 pm
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Location: Benicia, CA
Well, the first article is pretty comprehensive. Goes into more detail than needed, IMNSHO. If you are sailing a Getaway, you don't need most of it. Set your forestay and your shrouds so you do not get two blocked when the mainsail is fully sheeted. That's a good starting point. From there, just sail to weather in your normal breeze and let the tiller go...count to five mississippi's . If you haven't had to alter course with the tiller...forget about it, your boat is dialed in. If you had to alter course with the tiller in that time, then reduce rake by a hole or increase rake by a hole for the next sail.

Just as an aside, don't read the stuff about tiller tug or rudder track. I'm not a stranger to physics and when I read such dreck, I shudder.

_________________
R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 5:07 am 
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tpdavis473 wrote:
Well, the first article is pretty comprehensive. Goes into more detail than needed, IMNSHO. If you are sailing a Getaway, you don't need most of it. Set your forestay and your shrouds so you do not get two blocked when the mainsail is fully sheeted. That's a good starting point. From there, just sail to weather in your normal breeze and let the tiller go...count to five mississippi's . If you haven't had to alter course with the tiller...forget about it, your boat is dialed in. If you had to alter course with the tiller in that time, then reduce rake by a hole or increase rake by a hole for the next sail.

Just as an aside, don't read the stuff about tiller tug or rudder track. I'm not a stranger to physics and when I read such dreck, I shudder.



Thank you so much. Two coments:

Wouldnt it be better/safer to set the rake to trim the boat weather helm as explained in the article? The test you suggest would result in a neutral trim but Itd be better that after the 5 missisipis the boat had gone to irons, dont you think? That also would mean that a certain pull ac tion on the tiller is necessary to keep the boat on course while sailing. Is the way I have it now. I will follow your advice and pass on tiller tug.

Secondly its different the rake than the shoruds tension. The rake depends maily on the setting of the forestay, but for a given set of the forestay you can set more or less tension on the shrouds. (Of course more tension on shrouds will mean more rake at certain meassure) My problem is that my shrouds are already in the last hole and not very tensioned. They are not original. My intention is to enshorter them to get this tension on the first or second hole and be able to add more tension on them if needed.

On the other hand I dont have the clue to find out which is the propper tension of the shrouds given a forestay setting. The guy on the video uses this tool http://www.sky-international.com/produc ... fessional/ pretty expensive by the way. I was asking a way to estimate an optimal tension without using the tool.

Kind regards to all.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 7:28 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2014 1:30 pm
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Location: Benicia, CA
Shroud tension on a multihull (no backstay and rotating rig) will vary during the sail, the leeward one is always loose compared to the upwind one. If you are saying that your shrouds are dangling with no tension when on the trailer and mast up, then yes, that's not optimum because the masthead will fall to leeward and therefore mast height is lower so your mainsail is in a lower breeze (ie, you go a tiny bit slower). But, you can have them so tight that the mast won't rotate and that hurts your performance worse than the masthead falling a little lower. Next time mast is up and on the hard with little breeze rotate the mast by hand and check to see if the shroud opposite the turn got "tight enough".

If you are replacing them anyway, you could switch to dyneema and some lashings to tighten; I would have gone that route eventually.

Related to weather helm...yes, you should be reaching for the tiller to fall off at the end of 5 mississippis; you don't want to be in irons in 5 mississippis, but you should get into irons in about 20 seconds or so. That's usually better than having to be reaching for the tiller to head up. But if the rudders aren't completely down, or the jib not positioned on the forestay perfectly or the sails get old...the amount of weather helm or lee helm will change slightly and might even go from weather to lee or vice versa. I usually don't fiddle with it after initial setting until it annoys me by making me pay too much attention to the tiller. Then again, I don't race anymore.

_________________
R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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