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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2020 2:03 pm 
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Bow down is faster in winds to about 10 kts. We were talking about pointing. Point higher with more skeg and rudder in water, so bow up works best if you are going against a current, for example, like where I sail most often.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2021 7:59 pm 
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ashus wrote:
I too would like stiffer rudders but more for reaching in strong winds. One or other rudder seems to stall out at high speed and as mentioned before in another thread, kick up without hitting any object or weed in the water.
The latter problem has been partially overcome by tightening the main bolt on the rudder stocks but rudders still kick up to a smaller degree.
Adjusting the luff tension in the jib is important but is there an easy way to do this? The line resides at the top of the forestay!


Problem identified.... See here
https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=55594

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Mirror, Bosun, Laser, Fireball, Hobie 16, Dart 18, IOR 1 Tonner, 1720, Ozgoose, Hobie Getaway


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2021 9:49 am 
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Nice work on your rudder mods to eliminate popups.

Re: luff tension on jib. I ended up splitting the tensioner into two pieces. One at the top like it is normally and another one for fine tweaking prior to each sail at the tack. The tweaker is left loose on light wind days, but pulled really tight for bigger wind days. You could make it continuous by routing a 1/8" dyneema line all the way up alongside the forestay and back down to the head grommet (sorta zipper luff halyard). But I found I didn't need to adjust it that often to warrant that.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2022 8:59 am 
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tpdavis473 wrote:
Two ways of achieving variable luff fabric tension, both ways start with lowering the mast to get at the tension line. Way 1 is to replace tension line completely with a very long line that you thread along the forestay next inside the jib luff around the lower end of the top swivel turnbuckle and tie down at the jib head grommet. At the tack, go down to a turnbuckle in a lower adjustment hole and apply tension by cascading up to the jib tack grommet then back down to that turnbuckle-tension for the days wind and tie off. This is called a zipper luff halyard even though your jib luff doesn't have a zipper. The other method just shortens the tensioning line at the top and at the bottom you use another separate line to cascade between the jib tack grommet and a turnbuckle through a lower adjustment hole. Either way allows you to adjust jib luff fabric tension each time you sail. Way 1 has an added advantage that you can position the jib higher along the forestay for days of very light wind. It also allows you to bring the whole jib down without lowering the mast if the line is long enough.

I like your suggestion alot, Way 1, "It also allows you to bring the whole jib down without lowering the mast if the line is long enough", Just to clarify, did you mean you don't thread the forestay up the luff pocket, just bring the new tension line ( now a halyard?) down inside the jib luff? otherwise how can you bring down the jib without lowering the mast? Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2022 4:07 pm 
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chicago_saint wrote:
tpdavis473 wrote:
Two ways of achieving variable luff fabric tension, both ways start with lowering the mast to get at the tension line. Way 1 is to replace tension line completely with a very long line that you thread along the forestay next inside the jib luff around the lower end of the top swivel turnbuckle and tie down at the jib head grommet. At the tack, go down to a turnbuckle in a lower adjustment hole and apply tension by cascading up to the jib tack grommet then back down to that turnbuckle-tension for the days wind and tie off. This is called a zipper luff halyard even though your jib luff doesn't have a zipper. The other method just shortens the tensioning line at the top and at the bottom you use another separate line to cascade between the jib tack grommet and a turnbuckle through a lower adjustment hole. Either way allows you to adjust jib luff fabric tension each time you sail. Way 1 has an added advantage that you can position the jib higher along the forestay for days of very light wind. It also allows you to bring the whole jib down without lowering the mast if the line is long enough.

I like your suggestion alot, Way 1, "It also allows you to bring the whole jib down without lowering the mast if the line is long enough", Just to clarify, did you mean you don't thread the forestay up the luff pocket, just bring the new tension line ( now a halyard?) down inside the jib luff? otherwise how can you bring down the jib without lowering the mast? Thanks


You still have the metal forestay through the luff pocket. But you also have a strong (dyneema?) 1/8" line that goes from the head grommet up to a block or sheave or shackle and down through the luff pocket with excess equal to the luff length. That way you can raise and lower the jib using that 1/8" line along the forestay. It won't be easy (it won't drop by itself) since that luff pocket is pretty tight so there is a lot of friction. Jibs for boats without a jib halyard used to have a "Zipper luff" which meant the luff pocket wasn't sewed, it had a zipper to accommodate taking the jib completely off the boat. This was advantageous for folks who wanted to keep the boat on the beach but stow all the sails until "next time".

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2022 12:56 am 
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tpdavis473 wrote:
Nice work on your rudder mods to eliminate popups.

Re: luff tension on jib. I ended up splitting the tensioner into two pieces. One at the top like it is normally and another one for fine tweaking prior to each sail at the tack. The tweaker is left loose on light wind days, but pulled really tight for bigger wind days. You could make it continuous by routing a 1/8" dyneema line all the way up alongside the forestay and back down to the head grommet (sorta zipper luff halyard). But I found I didn't need to adjust it that often to warrant that.


Thanks to your suggestion I have improved upwind performance by introducing a second line at the tack of the jib. Tightened more for heavier airs but be careful... Not too tight or else you'll rip out the eyelet(s) when you crank on the mainsheet.
The jib is now mounted higher where it can accelerate the wind through the slot over a greater proportion of the main, just where it's needed, again just like the Dart 18 where the jib is proportionally much higher. I'm now bothering hobie16s regularly upwind!

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