Tiller crossbar in front of blocks or behind blocks?

Fellow Wave owners, what's better? Do you prefer the tiller crossbar in front of the main sheet, or behind it? Why?

I'm trying to decide if I want to leave the tiller crossbar on my '98 Wave in front of the main sheet blocks, or should I shorten the tiller arms and move the crossbar behind the main sheet blocks (like the EZ Loc rudders are).
I have very little experience on my newly purchased Wave, so I'm looking for your opinions on this.
The only thing I've thought of so far is boat balance. It seems on higher wind days, having the crossbar behind the main sheet blocks would allow me to sit further back and help keep the bows from digging in, but maybe on lighter wind days I want to sit further forward and it will be hard to reach the crossbar if it's behind the blocks???

Please help me decide.

Thanks, Jim

If not using a hiking stick... forward is better. The EZ Loc rudders require the crossbar aft of the mainsheet because of the orientation of the crossbar when rudders are up. It is way high up and would be in the sail if forward. That is why it is the way it is.

No problem getting aft with the way your's is set up. Easier to get forward which you need to do in many conditions.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Interesting that Hobie moved the crossbar behind the main sheet just so it wouldn't hit the sail when you raise the rudders.

I'd still like to hear some opinions from Wave owners on whether they like the crossbar forward or aft and why.

I've even thought about having 2 different crossbar/tiller arm set ups, a short one (behind the main sheet) for high wind days, and a long one (in front of the main sheet) for low wind days.

Thanks, Jim

With the EZ LOC function... you could not raise the rudders if the tiller was forward. The crossbar is really high and would pull up and aft on the sail and mainsheet. Rudders would not stay up and sails could get damaged.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

I understand Matt.

I guess I was just surprised that this was the reason for moving the tiller crossbar back.

Jim

That was the hardest decision. I loved the tiller forward design. The easier over-all function of the EZ LOC won.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

I was out in moderate winds the other day (12 to 15mph) for my first time, with my "in front of the main sheet" crossbar and my bows were digging in pretty good. I wanted to move back to balance the boat better, but I couldn't move back any further because of the crossbar location.

I am now thinking I would like to have 2 different crossbar/tiller arm set ups, a short one (behind the main sheet) for high wind days, and a long one (in front of the main sheet) for low wind days.

I already have the longer, low wind set up, which is my stock '98 crossbar/tiller arms.
I already have an EZ Loc crossbar too, for the shorter, high wind set up. I just need to purchase another pair of tiller arms for the shorter, high wind set up.
My question is: would I be better of buying the EZ Loc tiller arms, or should I get another set of the older style tiller arms and shorten them? Would the EZ Loc tiller arms work in my aluminum rudder castings? Should I get the older style tiller arms, which would allow me to keep the offset (they curve in toward the center of the boat)? Or do I want the EZ Loc tiller arms which curve upwards? Is there another reason one tiller arm set would work better for me? Or does it not matter much which ones I get, and I just get the EZ Loc arms because they are cheaper?

Thanks, Jim

I want to get a set of EZ Loc tiller arms. I was told by a dealer a few weeks ago that they are on backorder with Hobie, and I couldn't find a dealer that had them in stock.

Matt,
When will Hobie have the EZ Loc tiller arms available for me to purchase? Or do you know of a dealer that might have them in stock?

Thanks, Jim

Certainly, weight placement plays a part in the boat being sailable in heavier wind conditions, but the most effective means of mitigating bow punching in those conditions is to rake your mast backwards which means adjusting or even replacing some of the standing rigging to accomplish that. I have a 10 hole chainplate on the forestay bridle attachment and it is maxed out. Also, I shortened my shrouds to make the rig more snug when up. The mainsail clew is about 12-13 inches above the rear crossbar when slack. I also replaced the fiddle block mainsheet system with a set of low profile blocks reeved 4to1. I favor the tiller crossbar forward for sure, with an extension, so that you can tack the boat easily without moving aft to pull it around. It takes time to get it all done right, but once it is done no more worries. Two reasons for raking the mast. 1. Weight of the mast and aft sail power keeps bows up in heavier air. 2. The boat sails better with more of the sailplan over the skeg and rudders, which, together, essentially become a more effective keel.

Yup.
I already had raked my mast back "block to block", but the bows were still digging in to much for my taste.
I ended up cutting my tiller arms to move the crossbar back behind the main sheet, and I love it that way. I can sit further back on the boat now, and the bows don't dig in nearly as much now.

Jim

Have always enjoyed how often in the catamaran world, a variety of setups seem to work better for some than what works for others. Compliments

Jim, I would like to do the same to my boat. Do you recall how much of the rudder arm you cut off?

THanks!

Hi tjnett, did you end up shorting your tiller arms? Im ready to cut mine before spring. I was just at a resort that had waves and the action to raise the rudders is more of a tilt up and the-old style is to pull forward and up which makes the cut kind of crucial it also looks like ill have to drill the rivets at the casting, cut off a few inches, turn then angle in a bit then re rivet. im looking at ordering the 1957 connector kit and reuse the tiller bar hence re angled arm tubes, good luck
Ray



2001 Hobie wave
Mike Johnson mako wave ski
Necky Looksha 4 ds
Angulo supsurfer 9’6”
Prijion capri 12

I cut my straight arms off of a H14 and put them behind the blocks. Pics at https://formulawaveclass.freeforums.net ... r-backdate

Hope this helps you on your journey!

_________________
Bob Curry
Master Unirig Sailor

I shortened my shrouds to make the rig more snug when up. The mainsail clew is about 12-13 inches above the rear crossbar when slack. I also replaced the fiddle block mainsheet system with a set of low profile blocks reeved 4to1. I favor the tiller crossbar forward for sure, with an extension, so that you can tack the boat easily without moving aft to pull it around. It takes time to get it all done right, but once it is done no more worries. Two reasons for raking the mast