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 Post subject: Sail Box - Storage
PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 9:54 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2016 8:29 pm
Posts: 15
I'd like to add a sail box or some type of sail storage to my trailer. Has anyone used one of these conduit kits in conjunction with a length of PVC pipe?

https://www.amazon.com/Buyers-Products- ... it+carrier

It seems like the perfect way to cap the ends and mount the PVC. My only issue is that it's 8". I couldn't find 10 or 12 inch caps. Would 8" be large enough for the wave sail and jib? I measured it and it seemed tight, no room for the sail to breath. Thanks for any thoughts or experience with this.


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 Post subject: Re: Sail Box - Storage
PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 10:23 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 15, 2013 7:18 am
Posts: 173
Location: San Mateo, CA
I went the pipe route using 12" green sewer pipe (unused for the sewer) and adapted some screw on lids. It worked well and I had two of them. One for the rudders and one for the sail. I found the pipe to be very heavy. After a year of using them I found a decent sail box for $100 at a local catamaran shop. The box holds more than I need and it's light weight. My suggestion would be to find a used "cat box". You may be able to find one for the cost of the end caps you posted. Will the 8" pipe fit the rudders, rigging and sail?
Edit: BTW The lids I used were from Home Depot and they are the 5 gallon bucket screw on lids. I used a belt sander to grind down the pipe until the lids fit on and then I used some screws to hold them in place. I looked for a picture, but can't find one.


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 Post subject: Re: Sail Box - Storage
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 6:54 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 6:53 am
Posts: 47
Location: Dunedin, FL
RE: Storage tubes. PVC pipe is your friend.

Sewer pipes make great sail tubes but be sure to get the THIN WALL stuff, otherwise it's too heavy. I have 10" tube which has either 3/8" or 1/2" walls and I can solo a 10 foot piece. The white pipe (and perhaps the green) is PVC and can be handled just like skinny sprinkler pipe, i.e., it can be glued with Oatey glue from Home Depot. This is perfect when you try to make doors. The BEST part is that PVC pipe softens easily and without smoke in your kitchen oven at 200-215 degrees Fahrenheit. NO HOTTER or your wife will shoot you for fouling her oven.

Try this experiment when the wife isn't home: Take a one foot piece of typical white 4" drain pipe from Home Depot. Slit it lengthwise. Put it on its side on a cookie sheet with the slit up and put it into a 210 degree oven and watch it. In about 5 minutes it will soften and you'll see the slit widen as the tube softens. Let it "cook" for a few more minutes, then grab it with hot dog tongs or pliers and put it on a flat garage floor and open it out and flatten it. Like putty, it will go into a flat sheet. I press it with plywood and a concrete block. After it cools it will want to curl back up a bit so I reheat it and press it again. Now you have a 12 x 12.5" sheet of PVC which is easy to cut with any saw, glues back into a welded single plastic (strong), it's easy to sand, and holds screws. The 4" makes great doors but if you want a fortress use some of your thicker walled sewer pipe. You can paint PVC but always use the Krylon Fusion spray paint. It's made for plastic and works with PVC perfectly. I have several door designs but you can figure it out your own. PVC is so cheap and easy to work that you can try several designs and throw out the ones that fail. I made 3 different style doors in an hour or two.

As for mounting it to your trailer, the rig in the original post from Amazon is WAY overkill. Try this: Buy "all thread" from HD. It's 1/4" diameter and 3-4 foot long threaded rod, threaded over it's entire length. Bend it around the sail tube into a U...it bends easily. Then drill holes in your trailer crossbar and bolt it on with nuts and washers. The sewer tube is so strong it doesn't need any special "saddle" under it. To keep the all-thread from rusting I paint it with grey "cold galvanized" spray paint (yes, from HD). Then slide a clear plastic tube (again, HD plumbing department) over it to keep it dry and make it easy on the PVC tube and your skin. I do it in this order...paint, plastic tube, then bend and the process goes easily. Spray the nuts with the grey galvanized paint and you can unbolt it 10 years from now.

The bad part? Hobie EZ Loc rudders take a 13" tube and I've never found any that big. Rudders go on the tramp for the short ride home and then into the garage. For sail storage use at least 8" pipe. The 4 or 6" just squishes to sail too much. I like the 10" pipe. Find an irrigation/plumbing supply company and they can get you a 20 foot piece. Cut it in half and make 2 with another cat sailor.

DP
Dunedin, FL


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 Post subject: Re: Sail Box - Storage
PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 3:48 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2018 3:41 am
Posts: 1
dparker wrote:
RE: Storage tubes. PVC pipe is your friend.
Try this experiment when the wife isn't home: Take a one-foot piece of typical white 4" drain pipe from Home Depot. Slit it lengthwise. Put it on its side on a cookie sheet with the slit up and put it into a 210-degree oven and watch it. In about 5 minutes it will soften and you'll see the slit widen as the tube softens. Let it "cook" for a few more minutes, then grab it with hot dog tongs or pliers and put it on a flat garage floor and open it out and flatten it. Like putty, it will go into a flat sheet. I press it with plywood and a concrete block. After it cools it will want to curl back up a bit so I reheat it and press it again. Now you have a 12 x 12.5" sheet of PVC which is easy to cut with any saw, glues back into a welded single plastic (strong), it's easy to sand, and holds screws. The 4" makes great doors but if you want a fortress to use some of your thicker walled sewer pipes. You can paint PVC but always use the Krylon Fusion spray paint. It's made of plastic and works with PVC perfectly. I have several door designs but you can figure it out your own. PVC is so cheap and easy to work that you can try several designs and throw out the ones that fail. I made 3 different style doors in an hour or two.


You did an amazing job dparker...Keep up your good work. When will you do your next experiment when your wife isn't home :D :D :D


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 Post subject: Re: Sail Box - Storage
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 9:04 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 6:53 am
Posts: 47
Location: Dunedin, FL
Quote:
When will you do your next experiment when your wife isn't home :D :D :D


Just so happens I DO have a new Wave project.

I bought Jack Woehrle's furling genniker rig and have been "adjusting" his design so it work more reliably. I've done a bunch of small fixes and now it works great!

Is anyone interested in reviving that old thread about furling head sails? I have lots of hard knock lessons to share.

P.S. I had the genniker out in 18 knots and it scared the beJesus out of me!
Huge fun! Pucker factor x10. I'm 65 so no excuses.


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 Post subject: Re: Sail Box - Storage
PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2019 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 11, 2019 8:39 pm
Posts: 3
I have a catbox I'd like to sell. Fiberglass with white gelcoat. 2' wide x 1" high x 10' long. Can help with delivery.
Dave Kerr


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 Post subject: Re: Sail Box - Storage
PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2019 9:33 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 1184
Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
You may wish to post this under the SELL/BUY part of the Forum.
Asking Price and area where you live is very helpful too.

So.....how much do you want, and where are you?

thanks

John Lunn

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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 Post subject: Re: Sail Box to Sell
PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 4:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 11, 2019 8:39 pm
Posts: 3
Thanks, I posted in the classifieds. I'm in Ohio but travel a bit and could help with delivery. I think it is worth $400 but want to sell it.

Dave Kerr
[email protected]


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