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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2021 9:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2021 5:15 pm
Posts: 12
I purchased a used Wave in late September. The boat sat outdoors on its trailer for a number of years. The sail was stored indoors. I replaced all the lines and repaired a cut in the sail. But only managed to sail it once before it got too cold.

in order to store it in the garage over the winter, I took it apart. While apart i am going to make the following repairs.

1) remove seat pads.

2) remove portal covers

3) inspect inside portals

4) inspect hulls for cracks and sources of leaks and repair.

5) re-epoxy portal covers

6) replace seat covers with Hydro Turf

7) remove tramp tracks on hulls, inspect for sources of leaks and repair as necessary.

8) smooth any rough spots and fill any depressions,

What else can I do or do differently ?

Thank You,
First Wave


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 5:20 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2018 5:48 am
Posts: 9
Also on my annual or regular review checklist is to check all the wires ( shroud, forestry and bridles ) and attachment points for wear and tightness. Also included are the rudder’s and rudder attachment points. I find that after heavy sailing they occasionally loosen, and are experiencing wear.

And while you have it apart you might as well also check the mast float for leaks as well.

Finally as I use tiger trax beach wheels I make sure they are drained of any water.

_________________
Hobie Wave - Club edition on Georgian Bay, Canada


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 7:03 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2021 5:15 pm
Posts: 12
Thank You


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 7:25 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2013 4:49 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Huron East, ON, Canada.
FirstWave wrote:
5) re-epoxy portal covers
Not sure if epoxy will stick to polyethylene. 3M 4200 does.
FirstWave wrote:
7) remove tramp tracks on hulls
Might be challenging due to backing plates falling inside the hulls.
Northern wrote:
Also on my annual or regular review checklist is to check all the wires ( shroud, forestry and bridles ) and attachment points for wear and tightness. Also included are the rudder’s and rudder attachment points. I find that after heavy sailing they occasionally loosen, and are experiencing wear.
Ditto. Thread locker helps with loose screws(at least for some time).


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 7:56 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2021 5:15 pm
Posts: 12
CA Newbie

Thanks for the response. Did not know that the tramp tracks had a backing plate, Will check on it when I have the hull portals open. Also I planned on using the 3M 4200


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2021 9:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 10:08 pm
Posts: 172
Location: Ottawa, Canada
I'm really leery of removing the tramp tracks. Blow some air into a drain plug hole from a shop vac and then go around with a a squirt bottle of soapy water. That will tell you where the leaks are. But the hull is essentially all one piece so if it's leaking it's 95% sure it's from the inspection ports. I seal them with silicon since I think I might want to remove them at some point. Don't know why. The hull has a little dip in it where the ports go. If it is sitting upright water collects there and drips through any cracks in the sealant.

You don't say what year your boat is or whether it's a club or a classic. If it's appropriate I'd install the 1957(?) tiller connector upgrade.

The hook on the halyard can pop off the sail when you're taking it down and then the halyard goes up the mast. A shackle instead of the hook is hard to install but can prevent some blasphemy.

If it were me I'd replace the lower mainsheet block with a Harken 2676 to get ratchet action and more adjustability in the jamming angle.

The greatest winter of my life was doing what you're doing now. It's a great boat! :D


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 8:30 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2021 5:15 pm
Posts: 12
Big Whoop

Thank you for the reply and info.

I have the inspection ports open and am going to reseal. Will also do the leak test.

My Wave is a 2010 Club so it has the upgraded tiller connector.

I planned on updating the mainsheet system. Looks like there are a couple options that Ive heard about:
1) Harken 4:1 Single Ended 57mm Carbo Mfr. Part #: 7504 ( Includes 2676 fiddle)
2) Harken 40mm Carbo 4:1 Performance Mainsheet System

Im guessing the 57mm is more sensitive since the diameter is larger and it will take less effort to move it. Comments ?

Thank you and happy sailing


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2021 11:49 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 10:08 pm
Posts: 172
Location: Ottawa, Canada
I'm using the 57mm Fiddle Ratchet Block — Swivel, Becket, Cam Cleat Product No. 2676. Get the spring that holds it up when it's not in tension.

Again, if it were me, I'd taper the battens. Meaning I'd buy the Hobie 18 Luff Cap Kit (Trentec). You get more than you need but hey ... I'd replace the second batten down with a full width batten, then you'll need the larger leach cap. and then taper them all so they have the draft at 40% to 50% of chord, all have about the same tension, and are all the correct length (batten cap just touches the sail when tensioned). My battens, from top to bottom, are 5 lbs, 4 lbs, and then 3.5 lbs. for the rest. The sail gives them shape but you just want to help it along.

Oh and a tiller extension. My favourite is a carbon golf club (Value Village or Angelview, about $5) with the head cut off and the Omniflex Tiller Joint Universal epoxied on the end. Also the saddle thing that adapts the flat base to the round tiller connector tube. I think it's the 32 mm one.

The list keeps on growing. When you lace the trampoline do it with 1/8" or 3/16" line. Then redo it. When you get the second lacing tight the first one will be loose. Tighten it up. Let the whole deal sit in the sun for a few days, then repeat. "Tight tramps make fast boats."

About 5 feet of line for your 3:1 downhaul. All I can think of right now.

Have fun, and have a Hobie Day! :shock:


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