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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 7:08 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 10, 2010 2:08 pm
Posts: 9
Hi Everyone:
I just sold my 2009 Revolution 13.5' and ordered a 2016 Revolution 16', totally psyched as you can imagine but now playing the waiting game. (also ordered the largest Trax wheels for sand, performance package, and installation kit for fish finder battery.)

I learned quite a bit about setup from my years of fishing off my old revolution, such as i like everything set up on my right side and open on the left to land the fish. But the one item i tried in the past year which i really liked was the geartrack because of the versatility.

So, my question is based upon the shape of the Revo 16 and any other reason, what length geartrack fits well. I typically have a fish finder, rod holder, and gopro mount on the right side.

Second question, i was considering using the model which only has screws from the top with no nuts and washers to install from the bottom due to ease of installation, thoughts and experiences?

Third, i am running a Hummingbird Helix5 sonar-GPS with a XNT 9 20T transducer. I assume I need to purchase an adapter for the Lawrence Ready mounting, correct?

Thanks!
Greg


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 8:48 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2013 11:48 pm
Posts: 278
Location: Missoula, Montana
I have a 2014 13' Revolution, and have 16" YakAttack GT 1.75 gear tracks mounted on the gunwales in front of the pockets. They're hideously expensive, but I've been real happy with them for the following reasons:

1. You can mount them from the outside of the kayak with screws. Before you decide to mount a gear track or any other gear on the gunwale of a kayak, reach inside the gunwale and feel the area where you are thinking of mounting the gear. Determine the shape of the area, and whether there are any obstructions. Revolutions have narrow gunwales, and the area inside the gunwales is narrow and arched. The problem with bolting gear to the gunwale of a Revolution is that unless you manage to get the holes perfectly centered on the arch, which is quite difficult to do unless you drill guide holes from the inside of the gunwale, nuts and washers will be sitting on an angled area of plastic and hitting the plastic only on one corner. A backing bar will end up hitting plastic only at the right front and left rear corner, or left front and right rear corner. But this doesn't matter if you mount a GT1.75 track from the outside with screws. Just position the track on the gunwale where as few holes as possible are positioned over one of the notches in the inside of the gunwale created by the foot-brace ledges, drill two screw holes and screw down the gear track, and then drill the rest of the holes and put in the rest of the screws. it's quick and easy, and you don't have to reach way up inside the gunwale to tighten nuts. On my 13' Revolution, only two of the holes on my 16" GT1.75 tracks are positioned over air. That means that there are 14 screws holding down the gear track, which is plenty. I do a lot of trolling with rod holders mounted on my GT1.75 tracks, and haven't had any problem with the tracks. However, I don't use extenders which raise up my rod holders, because that increases the leverage on the gear tracks.

2. Due to their width, they do a good job of resisting the leverage of trolling rods. If you mount a narrow gear track on a gunwale, all the leverage placed on the hull of your kayak by trolling rods is between the nut in the center of the gear track and the edge of the gear track, which is a fraction of an inch. That is a lot of leverage. With the GT1.75 gear tracks, the leverage is between the screws on one side of the track and the opposite edge of the gear track, which is a considerably greater distance.

Shown below is a picture showing the gear tracks on my Revolution, and showing how I used to move the base for my Humminbird fish finder to a section of gear track in the cockpit when transporting the kayak. Now I have a section of gear track mounted inside the front hatch, and I move the base for my fish finder inside the hatch when transporting the kayak or using the kayak when I'm not fishing. I installed a new through-the-hull wiring grommet at the front of the cockpit, halfway between the place on the stern end of the gear track where I position my fish finder base and the gear track inside the front hatch.

Image

The reason I do this is that the cables on my Humminbird fish finder are permanently attached to the base of the fish finder. If I had a fish finder on which the cables to the fish finder and its base could be easily disconnected, such as with the Lowrance Elite fish finders, I could just disconnect the cables, put the fish finder and its base inside my vehicle, and stuff the ends of the cables into the mesh pocket.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 4:50 pm 
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Perfect reply, thanks for all the details and the pics it answers a lot of questions


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 9:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2014 1:32 am
Posts: 39
Location: Sonoma County, California
Also consider the Hobie H-rail. I'm planning on mounting a couple on my Revo16 when they come in stock at my local dealer. They mount with only 2 holes & weigh a lot less. Tons of accessories available for them also.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 12:53 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2016 12:38 pm
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Salty. wrote:
Also consider the Hobie H-rail. I'm planning on mounting a couple on my Revo16 when they come in stock at my local dealer. They mount with only 2 holes & weigh a lot less. Tons of accessories available for them also.

Hey Salty, where are you planning on mounting those H-Rails? I like that system, and yes they are much lighter.

I'm a bit concerned about how they stick up much higher than the low-profile tracks -- I'm kayaking on Cali's central coast, which is very rough, so I'm often slippin' and slidin' around the boat which means whacking my knee-bone on sticky-uppy things. Also, if one rail mounts them, won't they interfere w/ hanging the legs over the gunwales?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2016 7:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2013 11:48 pm
Posts: 278
Location: Missoula, Montana
If you mount H Rails on a kayak, be sure to mount them where they won't interfere with climbing back into your kayak if your kayak gets flipped and/or you end up in the water. If you mount H Rails next to or in front of the seat, they would make it very difficult to climb back into your kayak.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 5:05 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 5:09 pm
Posts: 156
Hookset,

Here's a thread that pmpete responded to with more pics. I installed the GT 90s with nuts, bolts, and backing plate but as Pete said, it was a major PITA to line up all the holes. In the end I had to drill through the plate and eliminated the threads in the plate, but it is definitely bullet proof.

If you plan to sail, keep in mind that the furling apparatus, namely the fairlead and control lines, need some space for mounting. I posted a thread about this issue I am having now where my control lines rub against the track, and I am hoping Luther at Yak Attack can fabricate a sloped/ramped end cap so the lines can smoothyl slide over the track's ends. This would also make car topping easier hull side down so the swuared edges don't catach on any crossbars.

http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=52850

Best of luck!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 11:10 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2014 1:32 am
Posts: 39
Location: Sonoma County, California
Scurvy wrote:
Salty. wrote:
Also consider the Hobie H-rail. I'm planning on mounting a couple on my Revo16 when they come in stock at my local dealer. They mount with only 2 holes & weigh a lot less. Tons of accessories available for them also.

Hey Salty, where are you planning on mounting those H-Rails? I like that system, and yes they are much lighter.

I'm a bit concerned about how they stick up much higher than the low-profile tracks -- I'm kayaking on Cali's central coast, which is very rough, so I'm often slippin' and slidin' around the boat which means whacking my knee-bone on sticky-uppy things. Also, if one rail mounts them, won't they interfere w/ hanging the legs over the gunwales?





Here's a link to some pictures of where I mounted the H-rails onto my Revo16. I'm using the Hobie rod holders & the Scotty gear head holders & they both work very well.


http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index ... ic=70566.0

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2017 Hobie Revo 13


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 11:13 am 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2014 1:32 am
Posts: 39
Location: Sonoma County, California
Scurvy wrote:
Salty. wrote:
Also consider the Hobie H-rail. I'm planning on mounting a couple on my Revo16 when they come in stock at my local dealer. They mount with only 2 holes & weigh a lot less. Tons of accessories available for them also.

Hey Salty, where are you planning on mounting those H-Rails? I like that system, and yes they are much lighter.

I'm a bit concerned about how they stick up much higher than the low-profile tracks -- I'm kayaking on Cali's central coast, which is very rough, so I'm often slippin' and slidin' around the boat which means whacking my knee-bone on sticky-uppy things. Also, if one rail mounts them, won't they interfere w/ hanging the legs over the gunwales?





Here's a link to some pictures of where I mounted the H-rails onto my Revo16. I'm using the Hobie rod holders & the Scotty gear head holders & they both work very well.


http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index ... ic=70566.0

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2016 Hobie i11s
2017 Hobie Revo 13


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