Furler Kit Issues

Is anyone having Furler Kit issues?

Background: I am a newbie kayak sailor who recently purchased a 2014 Oasis and am loving it. I first sailed it in Lake Tahoe with the Sidekick Ama kit and it worked flawlessly for the most part. The only issues were front end hop, the sail banging around loudly as I set up the boat on the beach and the seat clip pin popping out, the sail pulling the main sheet threaded through the seat clip as per instructions.

Initial solutions: I had already read posts here, on this Forum, about adding weight/ballast to the front by using (old) dry bags, so I got dry bags online/ebay for $5 ea. To solve the loose sail issue, I got the Hobie Furler Kit.

Test Runs w/Dry Bags and Furler Kit: The dry bags hold the front end down, so that is working. My experience with the Furler Kit has not been so successful.

First Trial: Since the dealer installed the kit, I’ve taken the Oasis out twice in San Francisco (Sausalito/Richardson Bay). The first time, I found the furler hard to pull and operate on the beach. Holding the main sheet I could get it to furl, but as soon as I let go it unfurled. On the water, things got worse. I tried to reef the sail. As I furled the sale the entire mast base unscrewed from the hull. I limped backed to base with the mast dangling at a 45 degree angle. (With guidance from Hobie Customer Service, I was able to easily screw the mast base back in, so that was an easy fix.)

Second Trial: The second time I took the boat out, I again had trouble just furling it and unfurling it on the beach. It wouldn’t stay furled. When I took it out (10knts with gusts up to 18kts), somehow – not really sure how – it wrapped around itself once, and though it should have then operated as a reefed sail with more control, it seemed to catch wind and push me backwards. I had even less control. Unfortunately, I could not turn back around (to use the wind to unwrap the sail) as there was a dock right there. The only thing I could do is take the mast out and pedal home with the mast/sail wrapped under one arm. (By the way, I know the boat is not designed for gusts above so many knots and, as such, do not fault Hobie for lack of high wind performance. Indeed, I have no complaints about the company or its products, which are awesome.)

I guess my very minor issues with the Furler Kit are: 1) it just doesn’t seem that easy to furl and unfurl, 2) it doesn’t stay furled once you let go of the main sheet and 3) I can’t figure out if it is intended to be used as a reefing device or just to furl the sail all the way in/out. Also, with respect to knot locations, the dealer installed the Furler Kit with the knots equal distance from the loop ‘ends’ so I could pull towards me whether I was furling out or in, instead of pulling in opposite directions as indicated in the instructions. Hobie Customer Service thought this would work but I’m not sure. It seems the opposite ball hits the fair lead before the sail is all the way in and/or out. Anyway, I’m going to move the knots so I can see if I can get more turns/revolutions. Maybe getting the sail fully wrapped and/or unwrapped will help.

Anyone else had minor problems?

Should it be wrapping clockwise/counterclockwise/does it matter?

All comments invited.

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The sail kit is really best in winds less that 15 knots. Kayaks are typically over powered and unstable by that time. Higher wind speeds are a challenge for furlers of all kinds. You must release all mainsheet tension to relieve load on the sail... to then operate the furler. It should stay furled for use as a reefed sail, but again... higher wind speeds can force the sail to un-furl. The furling line has to have enough tension on it to hold the sail furled. This is simply a friction of the line 1/2 wrap around the drum, so it won't hold under higher wind loads.

Sounds like the winds were simply too high.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Don't know if you did this or not, but always furl pointing into the wind to take the pressure off the sail. I made my furling line a continious loop with a bungee holding it snug. Look at my sail kit installing photos on my Outback and see if that would work on your model.

Don

I know I'm chiming in late to this thread, but i found the furler had problems if the mast keeper line was too taut (ie the line that goes from the furler to the boat, to stop the mast from falling out if you capsize). With this a bit loose, the furler worked fine. If there's little or no slack in the line between furler and kayak, then the pressure impedes the furler. Hope this helps.

This is important. Always point into the wind when setting up the boat, furling, etc. as it takes pressure off the sail.

Hi all,

I just want to add some tips that I have used to make the furling kit work best. I have a 2010 Revo 13.

1. The furler needs to be taught with good tension of the line around the furler.
2. The furling line and furler need to be as level in alignment as you can make it. To clear the hatch on a revo the furler is not level with the line. Push it down as far as you can get it on the mast without interference with the hatch.
3. A sail tight to the mast furls easier than a loose one. Before inserting mast into the sail twist the bungee twice forming (3) loops in the bungee. Insert the top of the mast into the lowest loop, back through the second loop, back through the third and into the mast sleeve then clip to the furler hook. This eliminates any slack between the mast and sail. This has solved so many furling and unfurling issues for me.
4. A taught furling line can be hard to pull. I have found at times I need to use two hands. Heading into the wind takes pressure off the sail/mast and furling is easier.
5. Sometimes the balls do not go far enough and hit the guides or bungee. If you pull tension off the bungee holding each line you can rotate the line on the furler and reposition the balls. Let go and let the bungee take up the tension again and keep furling.
6. The safety line and clip cannot be tight. It has to be slack. A tight safety line puts tension on the furler and makes furling difficult.

I hope these tips will be helpful.

Happy Sailing
Revo

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I would rather be kayaking and think about work than to be at work thinking about kayaking.
A Thrill Ride is being dragged around in your kayak for 40 minutes by an extremely large fish.

I believe I am staying on topic here.

Did anyone have an issue with the plastic balls being on the line backwards and also on the wrong side of the knots? I did and was surprised that Hobie sent me back to ACK (Austin Kayak) for resolution. I reached out to ACK and they went to Hobie tech support. The answer back from Hobie to ACK was to have me untie the cord and retie to correct the issue. I can't believe that a new cord was not sent and a return authorization was not given so the problem could be examined. I have since taken the cord apart and reengineered it to work as originally intended. Shame on Hobie!!

There is nothing wrong with the rope... just a knot out of place. A simple quick solution seems way better than having to wait for a replacement to arrive.

Sorry for the hassle, but that was a totally reasonable solution.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

The furler kit rope is balls - absolute donkey bollocks - i cut the rope and put my own on with no knots and back to front balls and it works a treat - just an endless loop so if you do get slippage you never have to worry about the knots being in the wrong place and getting jammed.

I'm new to this Hobie post & placed my previous post maybe in the wrong place. However my problem is with my 2014 Oasis. If I install the furler assembly at more or less level with the fairlead as indicated in the instructions, the pedal fouls the furler lines.

Did other Oasis owners have the same problem and how did you overcome the pedal hitting the furler lines.

there must be a simple solution but I don't know what it is

Almeister I had the same issue with the Hobie Furler. The Instructions recommended the fairlead mounted 5" behind the center of the mast. My pedals in the 6 position (my normal slot) were hitting the Furler line. I moved my pedals to 5, which temporarily solved the problem. I think this might be sufficient for my uses, since the primary source of power should be the wind and reliance on the pedals for optimal speed not necessary. Time will tell though ...


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