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Traditional Rudder for Sailing?
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Author:  dawiese [ Wed Apr 09, 2014 3:24 pm ]
Post subject:  Traditional Rudder for Sailing?

Maybe others have had this problem when sailing a Revo...

When sailing on a port tack, the rudder slides up and I loose controllability. I then have to continue to pull the down cord just to gain enough control to tack to starboard.

Does anyone have a fix for this? Has anyone tried installing a 'more' traditional kayak rudder on a Revo?

Author:  mmiller [ Wed Apr 09, 2014 3:51 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Traditional Rudder for Sailing?

Actually... there is a simple fix for this.

All Hobie kayaks built with the T handle pulls for rudder up and down include a cleat. You are instructed in the manual to pull the rudder down hard, hold tension and set the line into the cleat. Typically mounted at the back of the mesh pocket frame.



Author:  Zenyak [ Wed Apr 09, 2014 10:45 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Traditional Rudder for Sailing?


This sounds like exactly what happened to me on my 2006 adventure. I was unable to control the rudder, tried to sail/peddle while using the paddle as a rudder and eventually capsized. I don't understand the explanation of cleating off the down line, is this applicable to my craft?

Author:  mmiller [ Thu Apr 10, 2014 9:50 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Traditional Rudder for Sailing?

Product technical change - Rudder Up/Down system for 2007-08 Adventure Island and '08 Adventure

We have been looking very hard at better ways to secure the rudder in the down-position on the Adventure Island when sailing at speed. The higher sailing speed of the Adventure Island can cause the rudder to move somewhat from the down position when depending solely on the control handle and line adjustments. When the rudder moves from the fully locked down position, it can cause reduced steering control. To prevent this, all Islands have included a thumb screw, located in the rudder system, to lock the rudder down. This required you to leave the rudder down at all times.

At the time of the 2008 product release, we were not comfortable with further options. A solution was finally settled on to assure proper rudder control and the ability to raise and lower the rudder from the cockpit. We then decided to convert the 2008 Adventure and Adventure Island rudders from this point forward over to a line and cleat control system. This is somewhat similar to what is used on the new inflatable products. This new system can also be retrofitted to all earlier Adventure Islands.

While not as important for rudder control on the Adventure kayak model, the hull is the same as used for the Adventure Island. Therefore, a change to the mold that removed the control handle means that all Adventure hulls will also receive the new rudder control system.

UPDATE 1-22-2008!!

We have been so impressed with the better function and improved sailing experience using the 2008 Adventure Island rudder up/down control system that we are now extending the free retrofit program to the 2007 model Adventure Islands (2007 model owners previously had to pay for the upgrade). Consumers are also eligible for parts and installation labor credits on kits previously purchased or installed by a dealer.

Affected boats have 2007-08 serial numbers, were built and shipped prior to September 25, 2007. Newer boats have the new control system installed by the factory.


What the system is - The 2008 line control system is internal and exits the hull in the cockpit just forward of the mesh stowage pockets. The down-control line (located on the right side) uses a cam cleat to securely lock the rudder down. The up-control line is located on the left side of the cockpit. Once the lines are released, a shock cord system retracts the lines back into the hull. The system is very clean looking and is easier to operate than the existing control handle. The ease of deploying and retracting the larger sailing rudder is much improved.

To work the system, simply lean slightly forward to grasp the down-control "T" handle on the right side of the cockpit and pull. Add additional tension, if required for higher speed sailing, and cleat. Store the down control "T" handle and excess line in the mesh stowage pocket if desired. To raise the rudder, release the down line and then reach to the left side for the up-control line. Pull until the rudder is retracted onto the deck and then release the line. The slacked lines retract back into the hull and the rudder remains stowed on the deck.


# 81391002 RUDDER UP/DOWN LINE SYSTEM '07-08
This will upgrade '08 Adventure and '07-'08 Adventure Islands to the 2008 rudder up/down control system (Program does not include 2007 Adventure).

Older boats with the lever controls would need to tension the down line side of the lever to better hold the rudder down... and or upgrade to a larger better balanced rudder:

# 81397001 "Balanced" Large sailing rudder for Twist-n-Stow


Available at no charge for all AIs produced before this became standard this spring. Hobie AI production / shipping included this rudder since mid-May 2007.

FAQ section: http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=68

Author:  Hobotnica [ Wed Jun 04, 2014 12:24 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Traditional Rudder for Sailing?

is it really that much bigger? how much can it affect sailing


Author:  stobbo [ Fri Jun 06, 2014 10:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Traditional Rudder for Sailing?

The point with a balanced rudder is that more of the surface area of the rudder is in front of the axis around which the blade is turned. The effect is to reduce the amount of leverage required to turn the rudder i.e. less pressure is required on the tiller in order to turn the rudder.

With the original rudder on the Adventure Island it was very difficult to hold the rudder in a turned position on certain points of sail when traveling fast because the tiller handle was (is) too short to apply significant pressure with one hand over prolonged periods of time. Hobie introduced the balanced rudder to address this issue; it significantly reduced the amount of leverage required to hold the rudder in a turned position.

If you are having problems with your rudder lifting up when you are sailing I strongly suspect that the reason will prove to be not having the "down" line properly cleated down. Changing to the balanced rudder may make a small difference but I would address the cleating question first.

FWIW, I am not convinced that the "balanced" rudder is necessary unless you are sailing the AI. Just sailing one or other of the kayaks you will need the larger rudder but, as long as you have one or other version (unbalanced or balanced), you will have a rudder blade with enough surface area to be able to hold your sailboat on any course in any conditions (that I have experienced on mine) and there shouldn't be so much pressure on the tiller as to be uncomfortable even with the unbalanced version. I expect that most larger rudders on Dealer shelves these days will be the balanced version (the one with the noticeable step in the leading edge) anyway.

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