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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 8:21 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2017 12:39 am
Posts: 7
I am a new i12s user, because I bought the wrong sail kit from overseas and can not be returned. So I want to know what difference of i-SERIES and std sail kit? And why the std is does not work with the inflatable Hobie kayaks?

Can I DIY a mast receiver for install the Std sail kit to i12s? or I need to buy the "79052251 4-PIECE (i-SERIES) MAST" replacement to replace the Std sail kit mast? :| :|

Please kindly help and advise me. Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 9:10 am 
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 1:12 pm
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the i series has lines to hold up the sail (forestay and shrouds) - it works differently then a hard shell kit (those have a tube built into the hull to hold up the mast)

You would need to have a webbing tab sewn onto the luff of the sail to tie the lines to in order for a hard shell kit to work on an i series (and obtain line and hooks to attach to the d rings on the bow and sides of the hull)

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 4:37 pm 
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Hi Jbernier, Many thanks for your reply. you are so helpful to me. :D
I should add the below webbing tab to tie the lines for hold up the sail?

Image

If I can solve this problem, theoretically it still can be used the std sail kit in my i12s? :)


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 5:29 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
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Location: Escondido
The reasons they are not interchangeable are because both the sail and mast are slightly different. The regular sail mast drops in a receiver and is supported entirely by that receiver. The inflatable series mast, as jbernier says, is supported by 2 shrouds and a forestay (lines) that attach the sail to the boat and position the mast instead of a receiver. Therefore, the inflatable kit has a shorter mast and the shrouds sewn attached to the sail. Your best bet is to use the correct kit and either sell or trade in your current kit.

Alternatively, you might be able to rig 3 lines to the top of the sail (the original lines are rigged a little lower at the front of the sail) with hooks to snap into the padeyes. Your longer mast probably is not critical to sail operation. Magnify and study the pics in the following link to see how this is rigged. 8)
https://static.hobiecat.com/item_attach ... 1495148873


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 16, 2017 12:43 am 
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I bet your "wrong" sail doesn't have the bungee downhaul to tension the bottom front (sail "tack") down to the hook on the i12s mast base. Not essential, but it helps shape the sail and hold the mast on when a shroud goes slack. Another difference with the i-sail is that possibly it has a more aerodynamic 3d cut vs the other one flat to be roller furlable.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 2:58 pm 
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Unfortunately, speculation sometimes gets confused with fact and can be misleading.
daft wrote:
I bet your "wrong" sail doesn't have the bungee downhaul to tension the bottom front (sail "tack") down to the hook on the i12s mast base.
Clearly both sails have the downhaul bungee:
ImageImage
Quote:
Another difference with the i-sail is that possibly it has a more aerodynamic 3d cut vs the other one flat to be roller furlable.
Actually, both versions of the sail are sized and cut identically according to Hobie 8)


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 4:07 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2014 4:00 pm
Posts: 502
Roadrunner wrote:
Unfortunately, speculation sometimes gets confused with fact and can be misleading.

Sorry, I am used to the inflatable kayaks (non i11s) getting little attention from you experts, but if you-all are here to stay, I guess there is little need for amateur speculation.

It IS amazing that Hobie could devise a downhaul that doesn't interfere with roller furling. For the belly cut sail speculation I had suggestive evidence from a Hobie post which I cannot now rediscover. So I will defer to your expertise, except cannot digest your earlier claim that a rudder can be sawed shorter with NO loss of rudder authority. In an i12s with large sailing rudder in wave disturbances, rudder authority is what you want more of, and deeper should mean less disturbed water to bite. Esp with waves on the stern and on the brink of broaching. But maybe an i11s hull shape would be best remedy for 3+ foot breaking windwaves without broaching.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 5:23 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 2902
Location: Escondido
daft wrote:
It IS amazing that Hobie could devise a downhaul that doesn't interfere with roller furling.
They're pretty amazing guys -- they rigged it so you just attach the downhaul to the furler disk so that everything rotates together.
Quote:
...cannot digest your earlier claim that a rudder can be sawed shorter with NO loss of rudder authority.
You got me on that one. Ironically, this post by you generated the "Phat Albert" rudder:
daft wrote:
...this one is infuriating and tempts me to fall back to nonturbo fins and small rudder!
I built it to make sure my advice was valid and ended up liking it so much that I use it all the time. It might be useful on an inflatable -- haven't tried it.

BTW, your comments that are actually based on your experience are generally excellent and I enjoy reading them! 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 1:33 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2017 12:39 am
Posts: 7
Thank you all expert advice on this, it is really very helpful to me.
I hope that I can successfully convert the std sail kit to my i12s. :D :D :D


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