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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:10 am 
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Location: Shasta Lake/ Redding, CA
can any one explain to me how the mast rotation inducer is actually rigged on the 20? I have the assembly manual, and I've studied it...the directions are not clear enough for my micro brain to understand. Maybe someone could make a simple illustration for me and explain it to me. I have looked all over the internet to try to find a clearer illustration. There are no fleets up here to lend a helping hand to a new 20 owner.

thanks in advance

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:28 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
Mast rotation INDUCER...you're not talking about the stock set-up that uses the cleat on the top of the boom are you? Don't use it!
Seriously, everyone that I have seen went away from the stock system a long time ago. This is the set-up where you use the cleat on the top of the boom to jam the boom and mast together to force rotation. The problem with the system was that if you ever forgot to release the rotation inducer before gybing, the mast won't be able to un-rotate and you run the risk of breaking mainsail battens or worse, the mast.

Use the bungie system that everyone now uses (same as on the 17). This is the one where you create a bridle of of heavy bunge about 10' long, tied between the bridle wire anchors on the bows. Tie a loop of line with a pulley on it to the rotation arm, and connect the pulley to your bungie bridle. You also need make and install a tube to hold the rotation arm down (most people use PVC pipe). This system works well and is totally automatic, so you never adjust it and you won't break your mast.

sm


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:15 am 
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Location: Shasta Lake/ Redding, CA
ohhhhhh...thankyou..thankyou..thankyou...so simply and clearly put.

wes

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 7:03 am 
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Location: Seabrook, TX
srm
Would you have a photograph(s) or sketch of the 'bungee' mast rotation inducer?
I have a mental picture of your description, but I don't see how it would work ... so my picture is probably 'wrong'! :?
Thanks!
franklin j VIOLA

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 7:43 am 
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I don't have a picture handy, sorry. I certainly didn't come up with this system, as it is quite popular, so a lot of boats have something similar. I bet if you go to the HCspace Hobie 20 page, there's bound to be a picture of it.

I can try to clarify my description-

There is one piece of regular line, about 3/16 or 1/4" diameter and about 3 feet long, maybe a little more. Each end of this line gets tied to the rotation arm in the loop where the rotation LIMITER line also passes through. Also attached to this line is a pulley that is free to move along the line. This 3 foot line is routed so it is a loop that goes in front of the mast. In addition, there is a heavy bungee cord with one end tied to each bow tang (actually it's nice to have a small loop of line on each bow tang with a hook on each end of the bungee for easy install/removal). Last, you tie or shackle the becket on the pulley to the centerpoint of the bungee cord. The tension in the bungee pulls the mast into rotation. The abilty of the pully to slide along the loop and the elastic of the bungee lets the mast switch sides. On the H20, you also need a device to hold the rotation arm down, as it will want to kick up with all of the forward force. Most people use a pice of PVC pipe between the rotation arm and just below the gooseneck on the mast.

Sorry, but that's the best I can do. Look around for a pic and it will become immediately clear.

sm


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 11:02 am 
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Location: Clinton Lake Kansas
photo of the white pvc tube between the gooseneck and rotation arm

Image

photo of bungee and pulleys/blocks and line. Photo is a bit bright, but see the two blocks right in line with the shroud? Bungee is run continuous from bridle tang to bridle tang (1/4" dia. or larger). I put a caribeener between the two blocks so we could (easily) unhook the positive rotation after racing, and leave it set up for the next day.

Image

BTW, that's the best crew in the world, my son Paul! :D

Check through the hundreds of photos here for other views. There's lots of variations of how each individual rigs their boat and some people don't use the positive rotation.
http://picasaweb.google.com/hobie20king

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:31 pm 
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Location: Seabrook, TX
Thanks for both the detailed verbal and pictorial descriptions!
:D
BTW, how do ya'll embed photographs (such as Paul) into postings? Would appreciate reply on or offline.
Thanks!
franklin j VIOLA

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:13 am 
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Location: Shasta Lake/ Redding, CA
Thanks for all the help everybody!

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 7:07 pm 
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Sorry to revive such an old thread but I'm trying to retrofit my older H20 (1996) with the PVC bar to hold up the mast inducer. I'm struggling to figure out how to attach the one end to the mast. I found a copy of the H20 manual dated in 2000 that shows an eyelet mounted just under where the boom connects to the mast. Was that eyelet something that was added after my model? How exactly is that eyelet attached to the mast? Does it connect to something inside the sail track?

I'm trying to figure out how to add that eyelet so if anyone has any pictures or can describe how that's mounted and what parts I would need it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 4:54 pm 
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Location: Jersey Shore
Attach using the sail track. Use #10 screws and square nuts with loctite on the threads. The square nuts can be threaded onto the screws and then the whole assembly slid up the track into position. Since the nuts are square, they will bite against the inside of the track and not turn when you tighten up the screws.

sm


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2016 7:27 am 
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You can also run the line up through the tube and loop it between the boom bracket and pin that holds the boom.


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