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Hobie 20 rigging
http://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=51207		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  rssailor [ Tue May 06, 2014 9:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Hobie 20 rigging
Anyone got any good rigging pictures what Hobie 20 rigging is supposed to look like. Especially mast rotator setup with bungees.
I am going to look at a 20 this weekend. Ryan
Author:  mmiller [ Wed May 07, 2014 8:49 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Hobie 20 rigging
Did you review the assembly manual and parts guide?

H20 FAQ: http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=12781
Author:  wscotterwin [ Thu May 08, 2014 12:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hobie 20 rigging
I have a ton of pics Ryan. Mostly all of the boat sailing in Div 3. Most of them are different. The biggest difference is that most folks have moved the mast rotator above the boom. Mine is still Factory and below the boom. Call me to discuss.
Author:  tmason [ Fri May 09, 2014 4:14 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Hobie 20 rigging
I did a search to ask this question but was not successful in finding an answer;

What's the reason on the H20 for mounting the rotator above the boom?
Author:  MBounds [ Fri May 09, 2014 4:51 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Hobie 20 rigging
tmason wrote:
What's the reason on the H20 for mounting the rotator above the boom?

1) It reduces tramp clutter
2) The adjustment process becomes semi-automatic, in that the mast rotation is set relative to the boom, not relative to the boat. When you ease the sheet and the boom moves outboard, the mast maintains its angle to the boom - if you had the stock setup, you'd have to ease the mast rotation to maintain the same angle between the mast/boom.

The downside to it is that the rotation control cannot be adjusted from the high side of the boat or the trapeze.

F18s like their mast rotator on the tramp because of that, and because their mains rarely go off center, even downwind.
Author:  rssailor [ Fri May 09, 2014 11:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hobie 20 rigging
I am planning on buying a Hobie 20 in the near future. Very interested in how others rig their boats and why. I would prefer to not "reinvent the wheel" when I look at ways to improve the rigging on the boat I buy. Thanks for the info on the mast rotator Matt. Ryan
Author:  Fxloop [ Sat May 10, 2014 8:35 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Hobie 20 rigging
I bought a hobie 20 last fall and have had it out half a dozen times this year and can tell ya..... its a VERY fast boat. Easy to fly a hull. I'm not using the positive rotator at all, it rotates great all by itself, albeit i've only sailed it in winds in the 10-18 mph range. The stock rotation limiter works great keeping the mast from over rotating past the shrouds upwind ( set and forget ) then just loosen it when you turn downwind. Once i've really learned the boat well i'll prob tweak all the various lines but for now my only crew is my girlfriend so i'm lucky just getting her to trap out and work the jib sheet only :lol:
The boat points and accelerates so well as is i can't imagine how bada$$ it's going to be when every option is used to maximize power! If there's specific pics you pics you'd like of the boat rigged i'll shoot some for you. If you have a chance to snag a H20 in good condition GRAB IT!

Tim
Author:  hobieandy [ Sat May 10, 2014 8:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hobie 20 rigging
Would someone please post a picture of their mast rotator placement above the boom? Although being able to adjust from the high side sound good in theory, it's a bit difficult to actually do it.
Author:  Fxloop [ Sun May 11, 2014 8:52 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Hobie 20 rigging
Now you've got me looking for pics!
There were 3 H20's and Hobie mid winters and there's a few Hobie 20's near me in Memphis - one of which belongs to Andy Humphries - a pro Formula 18 racer and Hobie 20 racer and his and everyone's I've seen in person are in the normal stock position below the boom. I wonder if drilling extra holes in the mast is worth losing one line from the tramp.
Author:  srm [ Sun May 11, 2014 10:32 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Hobie 20 rigging
When I had a 20, I rigged up the rotator so that it cleated on the boom but the rotator bar stayed down at tramp level (stock position). Sort of the best of both worlds. The main problems I always had with the stock rotator system was that it had a tendency for the line to get pulled all to one side. Its also difficult to tighten the rotator line when sitting inboard on the tramp (like when preparing the boat for upwind sailing as you approach the downwind mark) because the cleats are in an awkward position. With the cleat on the boom, the crew can use one hand to pull the rotator bar where they want it and the other hand to take the slack out of the line.

sm
Author:  hobieandy [ Sun May 11, 2014 10:47 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Hobie 20 rigging
I was one of the 20s at mid winters east...Thanks srm I understand the mechanics of it but i was just hoping to see the different set ups. Can any of you over in Cali post a pict?
Author:  wscotterwin [ Tue May 13, 2014 8:23 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Hobie 20 rigging
Here are a few pics. A few different boats. Defiantly not the boat your dad thought you to sail on!!! Have fun figuring these out. Took me a month to rig my boat after I bought it and I am still tweeking. I still don't run the positive mast rotater......yet.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
Author:  Bsquared [ Tue May 13, 2014 12:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hobie 20 rigging
This is the way a lot of folks do it on the A-Cats; works well with low-mounted arms. Add a single cleat on the boom or rotation arm or bottom mast track; any place you can access it easily. Tie a single block to this line, and run it out of the end of the rotation bar, so that when you pull the line tight and cleat it, the block is up against the rotation bar. May need additional pulleys in strategic locations to get a fair lead to your cleat. May also need a bullseye fairlead or similar on the end of the rotation arm for less friction and centering. Put a big knot or ball on the other end so it doesn't run out the cleat :-) Now run your "stock" rotation line from side to side up through the center hole on the tramp and through the single block. For downwind, just pop the cleat, and the extra line lets the mast fully rotate. For upwind, pull the single line snug, and now the bar is back to your prevous upwind setting, and you can adjust it from side w/2:1 purchase for tuning. You can tweak cleat locations and amount of purchase as needed.
See if this helps :-) Mast on the left; line makes a big "C"


block cleat ball
l0-----------: ---0
l_____________
________boom_____
l block
l0---------\
__________d---0
rotation arm block
Author:  Fxloop [ Wed May 14, 2014 10:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hobie 20 rigging
My head is spinning just looking at those various setups. Those guys must win a lot of races! I'd hate to capsize or pitchpole and get a foot caught up in all that. Is the consensus that the mast rotation limiter is better above the boom? or is it merely a matter of preference? Is there a way to use the jam cleat on top of the boom whilst keeping the rotation bar in the stock location?
Author:  hobieandy [ Thu May 15, 2014 7:33 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Hobie 20 rigging
After seeing the pictures I will not be changing mine. The Stock position is simple and clean. With the rotator above the boom I would be concerned it might interfere with the downhaul or even snag a jib block. Maybe that is not an issue but my set-up is "fast" enough...Thanks for the pictures
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