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 Post subject: Front Crossbar Drawing
PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 9:25 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2008 8:21 am
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Location: St. Helena, CA
Is there a detailed drawing of the H20 front crossbar. I need to order the sleeve for inside the crossbar for the Inboard hull mounting bolt. My Assembly manual figure 1.2 only shows the bolts. Does this sleeve connect with the dolphin striker or is it separate?

I just set my wrench on this outside bolt and the head popped off....... AAARRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Better at home I guess than on the water.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 10:31 am 
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Location: St. Helena, CA
Found: Inboard Support Tube 41180001

This link show more detail.
http://static.hobiecat.com/digital_asse ... S_20_1.pdf

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 11:17 pm 
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spray a whole bunch of corrosion x down there and around the other bolts. Let it soak in a bit and try your luck at removing the bolts. If it doesn't come apart Brett, it's probably time to break out the sawzall. No fun. Mikey probably has an exploded parts diagram for the forward cross bar. Ryan


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2016 6:43 am 
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rssailor wrote:
spray a whole bunch of corrosion x down there and around the other bolts. Let it soak in a bit and try your luck at removing the bolts. If it doesn't come apart Brett, it's probably time to break out the sawzall. No fun. Mikey probably has an exploded parts diagram for the forward cross bar. Ryan


Hello Ryan,
I got past the broken bolt and the other 3 on the front crossbar without to much pain. (No sawzall this time). What is it with the 20's? I never had frozen bolts on the 18's (except for the boom cleat nuts). Next headache #2 one of the spreader rake adjusters is frozen! Heat has not helped... AAARRRGGGGG!!! :evil:

How this all started was I purchase another 20 last month and in the process of transferring the parts I want to the new boat which included swapping the crossbars and a bolt head popped off on the new boat. I just touched it with the wrench when it popped, I had not tried to turn it at all!

Headache #3 The new boat had some water trapped behind a bulkhead, I was able to clear the blockage and drain about 2 gallons using a H16 long main batten to poke about.

The new hulls have now been cleaned and waxed and the build is on. The tramp is installed, the jib cleats installed and lines run. I still need to step the mast and figure out the for-stays for both furling and non furling. And I'm trying to figure the prior owners engineering on the main down haul system.

Ryan will you be sailing your 20 anymore this year or have you put it away for the winter? I would like to get this new boat out at least once but don't want to do it alone.

I will be selling or parting out the old boat that I repaired at Huntington, If you know of someone that looking for a project.

Brett

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2016 9:08 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
The compression sleeves used on the 20's front crossbar are the main problem. You get a little bit of salt water down in the sleeve and it will just cause corrosion. You may want to swap out the bolts for bolts made from 316 stainless. This is more or less the highest corrosion resistance stainless available. The aluminum block in the hulls that the bolts thread into is also a problem. I would suggest you coat everything with Tefgel before assembling. Probably wipe the Tefgel off of the bolt threads before threading into the hull and use blue Loctite on the threads. Loctite should help to act as a corrosion barrier.

18's may not suffer from frozen bolts, but they have problems of their own. The inboard attachment area on the rear crossbar will corrode like crazy over time.

I'm more or less coming to the conclusion that these boats should be fully disassembled at the end of each season and inspected/cleaned of corrosion. Store as many parts indoors if possible (a wet sail box does not count as indoors).

sm


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