My first time BTB in Pensacola, Fl., was in waves as big or bigger than those videos (3ish foot?) First in my Pescador (nothing to damage while learning surf) and the next day in the Revolution 13.
Backing in worked for me. Spin around BTB, stow everything, and just start back paddling. The kayaks move pretty fast backwards. The waves will help move you backwards so you might take some forward strokes to strongly keep the kayak facing the wave. You keep your bow into the wave and can see your alignment with the wave front. Plus it is easy to correct your kayak so you are always punching straight into and over the wave.
I just occasionally looked over my shoulder to see how close I was to the beach. The first time, I made the mistake of jumping out in shallows, grabbing the side handle, and having the next wave turn the kayak 90 degrees so the following wave could yank the kayak right out of my hand. It was almost a perfect recovery first time BTB by following advice from kayak fishermen.
Always hold the bow handle and stay up wave of the kayak so it keeps aligned. A wave pushing a kayak at you will pound you, with that kayak, like nobody's business. That wave is a irresistible force.
The down side is the first time I missed landing by the wife because I was 90 degrees to the waves but the waves were coming at an angle to the beach. You have to use windage on the landing since head on to the waves is more important.
I have pics from a cell phone on the beach, and video, but not sure how to post on this forum. Just website links?