21SE spinnaker pole attachment

Hmmm... Too bad it couldn't be 1.25" sch 40 pipe in 6061 as the cost would be much less, like $100. Please Continue showing your progress.

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ChuckC
H21SE- 408

Two questions along with a progress update:

1. Does anyone have any insight for final bowsprit angle/height after pre-bend? I've aimed to set to spinnaker tack at roughly the same height as the jib tack, but I have the mast set to the lowest rake position I would use in light wind in this pic, so there is some margin to raise the tip. Intermediate bridles are ready for install when I get it figured out.

Here's how the installation turned out.... a 13'8" pole from Ryerson metals (length based roughly on Tornado max) using Nacra internal end fittings and attachments that resembles the trentec pole or a 49er end fitting. I sure hope SLS gets some comparable parts into production, this DIYcat thing is more painful than I expected! A seperate tack line is jury rigged until the RF30721 double exit block arrives (on order for weeks, but still hans't shipped). Ronstan has dwg files, so I went ahead and used the cad dimensions for the exit port in the pole.

2. Can anyone offer insights on sheeting angles? I was advised by Chip at Whirlwind to sheet from the shroud adjusters., which I intend to do, but if anyone has any experience with this, I appreciate the insight on the minutia if there are thoughts to be offered. Red sheaved Ratchamatics are scheduled for delivery tomorrow (apparently most dealers drop-ship such things from Harken which takes forever) for a modern tornado/tiger configuration of sheets, so this test hoist is still using the ratchet blocks on the wings.

I still have to clean up the sheets with a 3mm lead like the tornado guys use. The retrieval wasn't rigged in most of these photos, but it works perfect. I have a fairlead ready for the halyard, I'm going to keep it mast mounted.











On a different note, I aquired a few feet of 14" sch40 PVC pipe off ebay, cut it into 1/3 circmference and heated them at 245 in the oven for about 20 minutes. They spread out perfectly for the hull cradles with a bit of manual flexing. The PVC measured 160F when I was molding it (by hand wearing oven mitts). I added 3/4 neoprene foam from amazon. The rear cradles need to be much wider than the front to pass the widest cross section. I used a belt sander to radius the corners and then a small router to ease the edges.

Looking awesome! Wanting to do this exact same this spring. Would love to see the PVC saddles.

It almost seems like the kite is set really high, but could be angles and that it's on a trailer, combined with I don't know squat about setting up cat kites...

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ChuckC
H21SE- 408

Looks like that should work fine. That sail looks tiny compared to the ones we used in Prosail. Ours goes from the pole all the way to the back of the wing at the foot. They never worked worth anything in and out of a tube like that though.

We needed an antifouling line from the outer front corner of the wings to the bow to keep things from fouling on the wing. I put a grommet in the wing tramp for that line.

I have the trap shockcords all rigged under the tramp wings so there are two less things to get tangled in on the tramp. There are turning blocks up inside the wing tramp lacing so the cords are plenty long enough. One less thing to deal with at rigging and unrigging too.

Rather than curved bunks on my trailer, I have wide flat tilting pads that are about 18" long front to back. I forget how wide, but they allow you to telescope the hulls in and out without having to fumble with the telescoping trailer crossbar. The back has double 12" urethane rollers that swivel too. You don't have to mess with the trailer for telescoping the boat when you need to. The trailer crossbars do telescope for when it needs to be trailered narrow, but they can stay wide for telescoping the boat.