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21 sc comp tip upgrade??
http://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=6301
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Author:  mmiller [ Sun Mar 04, 2007 2:09 pm ]
Post subject:  stretch

We have always suggested tensioning the halyard significantly. I believe the shackle and halyard line tied to it will max out the hoist. The rest of the problem is when the line stretches. Low stretch line is advised.

Author:  Beachboy [ Sun Mar 04, 2007 6:05 pm ]
Post subject: 

The replacement aluminum section of sail track goes at the top of the mast where the pullouts occur. Matt mentioned that another aluminum section is added on the sc to accomodate the head of the sail when it reefed.

Author:  D Ruehl [ Wed Mar 07, 2007 8:06 am ]
Post subject: 

OK, Thanks to all, this situation is obviously shared by many. I haven't noticed if the luff is pulling out of the aluminum piece or the halyard is stretching to allow the luff out of the plastic piece. I think I'll start with a new low stretch halyard and go from there.
Thanks again,
Dan

Author:  Beachboy [ Wed Mar 07, 2007 8:46 am ]
Post subject: 

Let us know what you use, $ cost, and how well it works.

Author:  D Ruehl [ Thu Mar 08, 2007 6:37 am ]
Post subject: 

Sure will, but the lakes are still a solid, so it will be a while...

Author:  markcg360 [ Mon Mar 12, 2007 12:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Reinforcing Idea

2005--Tried some things with aluminum purchased at home depot, installed with basic handtools, cheap pop rivet gun and powerdrill.
Bolted (through the mast) 2 flat pieces of 1.5"wide aluminum on each side of the track, because of the curvature of the mast they didn't push in the right place and didn't help firm up the track. Pop rivetted small aluminum "L" shaped angles onto each of the straps from the first rev., pulled it all together with SS bolts. The addition of the small L shaped pieces now push firmly against the track, keeping the line inside the mast.

2007--Comp tip looks great, but chalky, sprayed some Armor All on it to make it pretty and about 30+ cracks showed up everywhere. Cracks to the pop rivets, cracks to the holes, cracks in the middle of nowhere. Maybe the sun, maybe the holes drilled through the mast, maybe it was reefed to tight and/or maybe it hit a wall in the garage. You're supposed to keep the tip covered when not in use. The sun's UV eats them. I noticed they sell a comp tip cover part #3127.
Just ordered a new comp tip and will be installing it. Will paint the tip to keep the UV from getting to it.

Don't spray armor all on your comp tip unless you're ready for some bad news.

Author:  Rockets [ Thu Mar 15, 2007 5:58 pm ]
Post subject: 

Mark, I'd almost like to look, but am afraid to! Still your solution got me thinking. If one were to buy a new aluminum channel, cut the curved sections so that each would lie tight against the exposed aluminum channel that's already installed... essentially doubling the wall thickness....
then one could JB weld the two together for a stiffer channel. No?? Or am I missing something?

Personally, my first option is going to be changing the halyard to a near zero stretch line. However if that fails I'm looking at either doing a mod to the mast by either installing a hook system at the top, or slicing and dicing a new aluminum channel to add to my existing aluminum channel and hope it becomes stiff enough. Aesthetically, and ease of use, doubling the thickness would be the best...if it'd work.

Author:  markcg360 [ Fri Mar 16, 2007 10:52 am ]
Post subject:  Reinforcing

Do you have the comp tip mast or the aluminum at the top? Is yours pulling out of the aluminum channel or the plastic channel in the comp tip?

Author:  Rockets [ Sun Mar 18, 2007 7:46 am ]
Post subject: 

Mark, I have a comp tip with a aluminum track section at the very top, which is where the pull out begins. Welding an aluminum stiffing strip would no doubt be best, however one needs to remove that section of track first. From what I've read that can be a major PITA. Which is why, if I have to...I'll go with the JB weld option. Dupont makes an epoxy called DP 190 that we use at work. It looks and smells like JB Weld. I've seen lap shear specimens where the metal will rip apart before the joint breaks. I'm not too worried about joint failure. Like anything, you just have to properly prep the mating surfaces.

To post pictures you need to up load them to a hosting site such as TWANGO then while you're on TWANGO, right click on the "properties" of your photo. Scroll over and cut that link. Now click the "img" button that you see above the message body when you're doing a reply on this forum, then paste the properties link into your message. Finally, click on the "img" button again to close out the command. Sounds harder than it is actually.

Author:  Rockets [ Tue May 08, 2007 4:45 pm ]
Post subject: 

Beachboy.... can you tell me how you replaced the aluminum track w/o beating the hell out of the comp tip? Better yet can anyone tell me how to remove the mast head w/o screwing up the comp tip?

The reason for removal is two fold. First I plan on installing a hook at the top and will need to insert a backer plate behind the fiberglass to guard against pullout. and Second, it just seems like the easier way to replace the tracks.

Are the mast heads riveted and epoxied? Can I use a come along and a heat gun to pull it off after removing the rivets? Is there a better way?

THANKS

TC

Author:  Beachboy [ Wed May 09, 2007 4:04 am ]
Post subject: 

It is a bit tricky. You have to go along patiently, it bends a bit, opening up and works its way with persuasion by hammer but you do have to be carefull of the comp tip, I did chip out a small section. It also occurred to me that it would be a lot easier to remove the tip and slide it on.

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