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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 3:47 pm 
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I have a i9s bought in 2011 that is out of warranty. I recently developed a leak in the high pressure floor internally in the bilge. There are no apparent leaks externally. I can hear the air rushing out, in the bilge and if I close the bilge cap, the bilge will begin to puff up if I keep pumping the high pressure floor. The leak is very fast. Is this something a dealer can fix or will it need to go back to the factory? Are there any videos or procedures that an end user could use to attempt to fix themselves? I suspect this will not be the only leak over the course of it's life and would like to learn how to fix it myself.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 1:55 am 
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gatorb8 wrote:
Are there any videos or procedures that an end user could use to attempt to fix themselves?

I believe there are a bunch of old posts here about pouring some sealant into the valve (removed?) and sloshing it around the bladder, but of course would be better for small leaks. I think they sourced it from some marine store targeting rubber dinghy users. Otherwise can only guess someone might have to cut open an area just to expose the leak, and then fix both the leak and the original incision.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 4:39 am 
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yes, I saw those posts about toobseal and ordered some. I am not optimistic cause the leak is very fast. Would be great if there was a tutorial on how to open up and repair since some are experiencing internal bilge leaks.

can the seams be opened up with a high heat? I am quite handy with tools and would even invest in tools if I knew what to do.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 6:36 pm 
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no help here?
really could use some


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 11:38 am 
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The factory does not do non-warranty repairs... best bet is to cut through the black bottom material to access the area to be patched... then patch the bottom.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 11:33 am 
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mmiller wrote:
The factory does not due non-warranty repairs... best bet is to cut through the black bottom material to access the area to be patched... then patch the bottom.

I just spoke with the factory. They offered to repair if I paid shipping. Mine is out of warranty
estimated $75 each way


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 11:39 am 
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Well I tried toobseal and nogo :cry:

I had my wife pump while I listened closely to the high pressure hull. The hiss was inside the hull just behind the rear of the mirage drive mount. I pealed back the ring seal from the rear of the mirage drive mount and found a seam leak. No toobseal was gonna fix that. I called the factory and they recommended cleaning with acetone and glueing the seam with the patch kit glue. It's setting up for 12 hours now. I feel lucky that I found it without destroying to much!
here's a few pics
I'll report back when I re-inflate.

Image

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 6:07 am 
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good news
inflation and soapy water check looks like repair was successful!
I'm going to let it sit for a few days and recheck before closing the top mirage drive mount seal back up.

Image


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 10:51 am 
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everything looks good
time for sea trial!

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2016 1:46 pm 
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I had another internal seam let go today. This time on the starboard hull tube. I was driving in my van and heard a large air release. There are no external punctures. I listened to where the air was leaking and will open it up soon. If I close the bilge cap in the bow, the bilge fills with air when I pump up the starboard hull. Since this is my second internal failure I'm wondering if my original boat was just manufactured wrong / defective. I have another hard shell Hobie kayak and at this point, I will never buy another inflatable, they are just not tough enough for the long term versus a hard shell.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2016 4:17 pm 
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gatorb8 wrote:
If I close the bilge cap in the bow, the bilge fills with air when I pump up the starboard hull.

Sorry to hear. That is a clever way to diagnose the problem, which I think would be different in the different models. My i12s has a big hatch to close the bilge, although there still seems to be a vent tube going to a tiny screw cap.

Do you keep it inflated all the time? Maybe that would stress the seams. Not a criticism of you, but I have a fleet of inflatables to worry about ageing one way or another.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2016 8:09 am 
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I kept it folded up in my RV basement for a few years, and partially inflated with no folds for the last few years in my garage. I opened up the seam between the hull (black) and the starboard tube and think I found the seam failure. I'll know after I attempt repair. Humidity is 90% now so have to wait until humidity is <70% to repair with MEK glue.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 8:33 am 
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after waiting for the humidity to drop for a month (glue does not like humidity), I gave up and brought my kayak into the AC and finished the repair. After locating the internal seam failure by listening, I opened up the bumper and hull by using a heat gun to get the glue just to the point where it would release. I peeled the bumper back and the hull for about 3'. I was a good detective cause the starboard tube quickly revealed the hidden seam failure. I glued the tube and let it set for a day before I leak tested it. Once it passed the leak test, I waited a week for the glue to fully set. Then it was just a matter of gluing the hull back on and then the bumper.

What I think I learned:
1. 1 part glue is for emergency and temporary repairs (from what I've read in my research). To repair seams effectively, it is suggested to use a good 2 part glue. I used Polymarine 2 part glue for PVC that I got from Defender
2. Temperature and humidity can vary the glue curing process all over the map! When I waited the suggested 10-20 minutes before attaching seams, the glue had dried beyond tacky so I had to hit it lightly with heat again.
3. Florida is a very harsh environment for my kayak. If I leave my kayak inflated in the sun on my cement driveway for an hour, I can pull seams apart by hand. Think how quickly a failure can be induced if the kayak is over inflated and left in the sun on a hot beach or driveway. For that reason, my rule now is only have this kayak in the sun when I'm in it!

disclaimer: I could be and have been totally wrong!
happy boating!

Image
Image
Image


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 1:26 pm 
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Very interesting; I suppose the included patch glue is normally expired by the time seams need repair. It is interesting to know there are alternative glues and heat gun techniques. I guess the only time I leave an inflatable in the sun is if there is a weather change which I am hoping will pass. Maybe would help if I leave it half in the cool water.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2017 6:13 pm 
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Location: Mesa, AZ
This forum provides insight and tips that are timeless. Even after 2 years since an original post. gatorb8 it appears I've a leak in my i12s in the same area. This leak is in front of the mirage drive mount. I'm curious as to how you removed the material surrounding the drive mount. I appreciate any direction you can provide. Your post ad pics will contribute a great deal. Thank you.


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