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 Post subject: Drive popping out
PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 5:30 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2016 3:18 pm
Posts: 130
After one season on my i11s, the cables developed some play and the drive became sloppy, so I tightened everything up and it's running great except now the drive will pop out of the mirage well when pedaling against current/cross current randomly. First it was only the right side, now it's happening to the left and right with equal frequency.

Reading some older posts, I think when I tightened up all the cables the drum shaft isn't equal length on the right and left side. Some users recommended hammering the drum shaft back in place...do I have to loosen the cables before doing this? Are there videos?

Also reading about people shimming the well. Are you guys shimming the bottom of the slots where the drum shafts rest, or somewhere else?


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 Post subject: Re: Drive popping out
PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 7:52 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 27, 2013 10:47 am
Posts: 121
Location: Oregon Coast
I had some minor drive popping out issues early on and then one of the little springs on the retaining levers broke...my fix was to run a small bungee cord from each lever to the forward attach ring nearest the lever. These hold the little levers securely in the 'locked in' position and my drive has not popped out since. To remove the drive, I pull one lever back and 'lean' the drive so the pin on that side keeps the lever from going back to the locked position, then I pull the other side lever back and pull the drive up and out...cheers, roger

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 Post subject: Re: Drive popping out
PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 1:59 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2014 4:00 pm
Posts: 506
For me, popping out is a progressive cancer. First I replaced springs and levers, then tied the cam levers, then shimmed, and now wrap axle with electrical tape. But there is a simple way to diagnose and address the true root of the problem.

The electrical tape has a non-obvious advantage of gripping the cam levers with it's elasticity once the cam levers slice thru the top layers. Also the rest of the shaft diameter has the spongy tape filling the irregular voids and giving enough springy resistance to the lever to act as a cam as it should, and click home with a mighty thunk. Any spring tension is feeble compared to the very subtle off center cam action of the device. Springs or holding devices are not needed at all, and won't stay closed anyway if the drive is free to twist too much when pedaling.

But before inflicting any sort of speculative solutions inspect things carefully for the root cause. Mainly put a strong flashlight in the well slot, although I guess you could also measure drive axle asymmetry. I might have given a tap with a piece of wood to even axle protrusions, but the important thing is the seating. With just the right light reflecting on where the axle seats, I found a rounded void in the forward direction - too hard pedal sprinting had driven the axle forward and deformed the axle slot. It was deceiving because the slot was otherwise rectangular, but that doesn't help hold the axle except in one elevated place where the rounded part pushes.

Put the boat up on a couple chairs with the drive locked in, and grasp the pedal shafts together and see which directions are free to wiggle. Note a twisting action (which pedaling does) can "walk" open the cams, which can lose their cam lock with just a few molecules of opening movement. I think front/back or rotational movement must be eliminated. There are also less critical movements in terms of rocking the drive front and back or shifting left or right.

I glued in patches around the axle seat front and back to stop the most critical looseness that walk the cams open. Then I glued in patches below to bring the axle up tight against the lever to make cam-ing work. Now for tidiness, I think I added patches left and right to snug against the end of axle shaft, then a ton of patches under the front and back ends of the drive to reduce (but not stop) pitching fore and aft. It worked great, but got soft and needed more patches in time.

I had tried some forms of tape to wrap the axle shaft before, but only electrical tape had the elasticity to work well, and is so far less trouble than gluing in the upkeep mode. You know you need more (or less) whenever the cam levers don't close with a mighty THUNK. Hmm, I will have to check that I keep electrical tape in my onboard fix kit.

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My Hobie i12s... sailboat in a suitcase!


Last edited by daft on Fri May 12, 2017 2:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Drive popping out
PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 2:41 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 2907
Location: Escondido
1. Tap as necessary to make sure the drum shaft is equal on both sides. No cable loosening is necessary.

2. Make sure your C&G levers operate freely -- lube as necessary

3. Check your drumshaft for unwanted rotation -- this can "walk" your Drive out from the locked position. To check this, mark your shaft with a Sharpie on the top and watch for any rotation when operating.

Image

Depending on the age of your drumshaft, some of the older versions were smooth or modestly splined. If it rotates and is smooth, order a new one. If it rotates and is splined, you might try a little marine epoxy. To check, you can tap it out part way to see what the middle part looks like.

Image

4. When inserting the Drive, make sure the levers are fully in the locked position. Wiggle Drive back and forth to verify.

If it still pops out, try any of the successful improvisional methods suggested by daft and rogerdodger. 8)


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 Post subject: Re: Drive popping out
PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 3:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2014 4:00 pm
Posts: 506
Roadrunner wrote:
If it still pops out, try any of the successful improvisional methods suggested by daft and rogerdodger. 8)

Thanks Roadrunner but there is one more fundamental root cause to check for inflatables. The drive seat is deformable rather than rigid, which can let the axle (= drumshaft) wiggle and walk the drive out. I'm not saying this deforms easily, and most of my axle slot is still in original shiny rectangular shape. But heavy pedaling when brand new pushed open a void forward, and the whole integrity of the system "drumshaft cradled between slot and cam lever" fails without adding "improvisations".

Again, we have seen suggestions for helping the drumshaft or cam-levers, but the 3rd essential part is the shaft slot which is uniquely deformable in inflatables. Pretty hard, but deformable in my case (maybe the factory can stiffen more or add metal thrust plates?).

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My Hobie i12s... sailboat in a suitcase!


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 Post subject: Re: Drive popping out
PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2017 11:23 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2016 3:18 pm
Posts: 130
Thanks everyone, I'll try electric tape then bungee cord, in that order. I like easy solutions lol...


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