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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 9:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2017 6:45 pm
Posts: 13
Today I started to check the kayak, thinking that the emergency repair I did two years ago was the problem (blue patch) and I see this, 300 leaks and counting. It seems that the glue is no longer effective after 5 years. And that big belly in the hull, my memory is not what it was and the truth is that I never look down, but I do not remember that it was like that, I think it was quite flat, without deformations.
The pressure according to my manual pump was 0.5 psi and I have never inflated it to more than 2 psi. If I inflate it at 5 psi, I'm sure it will burst into the area where the leaks are.
Any suggestions if this is normal or common in such a cheap kayak? Is the hull like this or should I worry?

https://flic.kr/p/K7tr2r
https://flic.kr/p/27EZCqA
https://flic.kr/p/27EZCqq
https://flic.kr/p/K7tqYR
https://flic.kr/p/27owxk6


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 7:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2017 6:45 pm
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Can someone tell me if it's normal for there to be deformations? Is it normal for the glue to stop doing its job? obviously, the programmed obsolescence has started its countdown.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 11:15 am 
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He has not been exposed to heat at any time. When it was not in the water, it was always placed under a shade, and in winter it was always kept in the basement, inflated at low pressure and with dehumidifier.
So, is it irreparable? $ 3,500 in the trash, and only 4 years?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 6:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2017 6:45 pm
Posts: 13
Thanks Daft, you opened my eyes.
I just found this picture online, and as you can see, the plug that is in a red circle is open, but you can see that the floor has pressure.
I always had the plug closed, thinking it was a way to empty the kayak faster, and that the hull and floor were the same tube.
In this way, I have noticed that the hull and the floor are two independent parts.
The floor of my kayak has an internal leak that fills the hull, giving the belly that can be seen in the photos.
Now I can only do one thing and that is to do surgery and find the leak on the floor.

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 2:38 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2017 6:45 pm
Posts: 13
daft wrote:
Oh I see, no drop stitch failure. In Hobie terminology they call that the bilge which should be open vented at inflation and deflation. When you plugged it up, that helped diagnose a leak from the floor cell or maybe a side cell because the purpose of the bilge is to bridge the 3 cells together smoothly.



That is something that was unknown, and it seems that the other companies follow the same manufacturing trend.
In my humble opinion, kayaks should be made with access to all the areas to be repaired, and even more so if they are kayaks as expensive as the Hobie. A zipper on the sides to access and be able to verify where an internal leak is, would be very useful. My dry kokatat suit has one and is completely waterproof, so it is possible.
Now my repair is becoming a headache, I have two days for this, when I should be fishing.
The internal leak seems to be really big. When I stop the electric pump, it loses pressure instantaneously and I can not hear where the air is coming from.
I will not make cuts in the helmet without knowing approximately where the leak is. Although it seems that the most fragile areas should be at the ends of the kayak.
I'm going to burn my last cartridge and I'm going to connect a wireless camera to a stick.
That's my last option before I start using the scalpel.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 10:59 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2017 6:45 pm
Posts: 13
Well, I made a small cut in the hull and put the wireless camera and it works, but I did not find where the leak is, if I spend more time I will surely find it, but I will leave it as a winter project, I lost patience with this kayak.
I will dedicate myself to enjoy the good weather with my hobie bravo.
Thanks for the help Daft, i really appreciate it.


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