I recently purchased a used 2011 Hobie AI. I phoned the original seller (Hobie dealer Tackle Shack of North Pinellas Park, FL) to say I wanted to be registered as the owner to receive the new rudder upgrade. A person responded that, since I was the second owner, the Hobie warranty did not apply, AND I would have to pay for any upgrades. When I questioned that, the sales person said “I’m wasting my time on you,” and hung up. I complained about this in an email to Hobie customer support. They replied immediately, apologized, and said that the dealer was incorrect. Hobie also offered to send the new rudder ASAP. That is how I happened to receive the rudder upgrade 2 days ago.
I installed the rudder yesterday and will try it tomorrow. Here is my installed rudder, me, and the moment I happily dropped the T-n-S rudder in the trash. (Actually, I removed the SS screws before discarding.)
A few installation observations.
1. View Jim Czarnowski’s video showing the step by step installation (posted by Matt Miller at http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=35376&start=0) The video is excellent and should be viewed BEFORE doing the installation.
2. Print out the installation instructions also posted by Matt. Use these instructions as you actually install the new rudder (or, better, with a portable computer, watch the video.)
3. The video/printed instructions talk of using pliers, but you need vice grips if doing it solo.
4. The new rudder has 4 thick, 36” yellow lines (2 steering lines, 2 up/down deployment lines.) Each of these lines has 2 knots in it. The instructions refer to the “first knot” and the “second knot,” but don’t identify which is which. The “first knot” is near the tag (free) end of the line. The “second knot” is nearer the rudder housing. If the installation is for an AI, the second knot is untied and the “first knot” is used. If the installation is for a Tandem, the “second knot” is used.
5. The instructions use “tiller line” and “steering line” interchangeably.
6. The instructions say to “…cut the up/down lines near the rudder head….” Go ahead, cut them; don’t untie them, cut them. Same with the steering lines. Being careful, I untied them--a waste of time.
7. The only error I found in the printed instructions was in item 3f. It says “…pulling on the lines at the tiller….” It should say “…pulling on the lines at the rudder….”
8. In my 2011 AI, there were 2 closed-cell foam blocks, one along the rail on each side of the cockpit—they are accessible from the front hatch. When I installed the rudder, an interior pulley on the up line caught on the foam block and kicked it into the bow. I have removed these two foam fillers. They may be there for floatation, but I don’t want them interfering with the up/down lines. Also, on my camping trips, I need that space—and, with my dry bags and the amas, I think there will be plenty of floatation available.
9. When finished, my “up” line seemed about 18” too long at the up handle—I removed 15” of it.
All in all, the installation was painless.
Glad the installation went well, I look forward to hearing about its operation, performance and quirks!
(Still, you're looking good!)