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 Post subject: Re: TI outboard mount
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 5:57 am 
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Location: Austin Texas
Nicely Done !

Chris


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 Post subject: Re: TI outboard mount
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 10:20 am 
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Location: North carolina
Deleted my post. Weight will still be on the side gunnel...:)


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 Post subject: Re: TI outboard mount
PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 9:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 3:25 pm
Posts: 30
Location: Seffner, Florida
Hi,

Have any of you guys had issues with these outboard motors staying attached to that slick mounting surface?

I made some brackets for the NuCanoe that I previously owned. The bracket did a good job keeping trolling motors from slipping off the transom. These plates were custom designed for different trolling motors that had different clamp location dimensions. My design allowed the large clamp washers to recess into the delrin bracket providing additional protection keeping the motor in place. The eye bolt shown in the picture went into a hole in the transom. But in your case I would think a simple bolt or bolts through your mount would do the trick. The eye bolt allowed you to put a leash on the motor just in case the motor ever came loose on the mount.

Image

Just something that may be of interest.

John

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The RIGID RAIL Accessory Mounting System is coming to a Hobie near you soon.

Variable Speed Electra Drive System Designed by: Phil Krug.
https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=62295&p=298578#p298578


Last edited by hobie cnc solutions on Sun Feb 25, 2018 10:05 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: TI outboard mount
PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 8:38 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:13 pm
Posts: 327
hobie cnc solutions wrote:
Hi,

Have any of you guys had issues with these outboard motors staying attached to that slick mounting surface?

I made some brackets for the NuCanoe that I previously owned. The bracket did a good job keeping trolling motors from slipping off the transom. These plates were custom designed for different trolling motors that had different clamp location dimensions. My design allowed the large clamp washers to recess into the delrin bracket providing additional protection keeping the motor in place. The eye bolt shown in the picture went into a hole in the transom. But in your case I would think a simple bolt or bolts through your mount would do the trick. The eye bolt allowed you to put a leash on the motor just in case the motor ever came loose on the mount.

Just something that may be of interest.

John

I can't see your photo. I used a rubber membrane that was glued to the mount's "transom". This provided both a better grip and some vibration dampening. The motor never budged an inch in operation. However it's always wise to include a leash just in case.

Image


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 Post subject: Re: TI outboard mount
PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 9:55 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017 9:16 am
Posts: 19
Location: San Diego, CA
hobie cnc solutions wrote:
Hi,

Have any of you guys had issues with these outboard motors staying attached to that slick mounting surface?

I made some brackets for the NuCanoe that I previously owned. The bracket did a good job keeping trolling motors from slipping off the transom. These plates were custom designed for different trolling motors that had different clamp location dimensions. My design allowed the large clamp washers to recess into the delrin bracket providing additional protection keeping the motor in place. The eye bolt shown in the picture went into a hole in the transom. But in your case I would think a simple bolt or bolts through your mount would do the trick. The eye bolt allowed you to put a leash on the motor just in case the motor ever came loose on the mount.

Image

Just something that may be of interest.

John


I was considering bonding or bolting delrin pieces to the front and back of the aluminum mounting surface to including a 10° transom angle. I didn't have the means to make the angled cut so I haven't done it, but it's something I'd be interested in.


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 Post subject: Re: TI outboard mount
PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 4:51 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 3:25 pm
Posts: 30
Location: Seffner, Florida
domr wrote:
hobie cnc solutions wrote:
Hi,

Have any of you guys had issues with these outboard motors staying attached to that slick mounting surface?

I made some brackets for the NuCanoe that I previously owned. The bracket did a good job keeping trolling motors from slipping off the transom. These plates were custom designed for different trolling motors that had different clamp location dimensions. My design allowed the large clamp washers to recess into the delrin bracket providing additional protection keeping the motor in place. The eye bolt shown in the picture went into a hole in the transom. But in your case I would think a simple bolt or bolts through your mount would do the trick. The eye bolt allowed you to put a leash on the motor just in case the motor ever came loose on the mount.

Image

Just something that may be of interest.

John


I was considering bonding or bolting delrin pieces to the front and back of the aluminum mounting surface to including a 10° transom angle. I didn't have the means to make the angled cut so I haven't done it, but it's something I'd be interested in.



Hi,

In my opinion, there is no need to have a plate on the rear of the mount. The Key to the whole deal is the recess for the large motor attachment washers to fit in. Once the delrin plate is bolted to the mount and the large motor washers are encapsulated inside of those recesses as shown in the picture and the motor tightened properly the motor should stay in place during normal boating operations. On the mounts that I made I did the research on the offset from the top of the motor bracket to the center of the large motor washers and also got the correct dimensions from center to center on the motor mount plate washers so that the motor would align correctly when placed on the transom or fabricated mount.

Another concern could be???? the actual amount of room available for the motor to clamp to the mount. Due to the thickness of the transom on the previous kayak I owned and the amount of opening on the particular motor with the clamp screws fully extended the thickness of the plate was pretty critical. Hopefully, this would not be a factor on your fabricated mounts.

If you would like to discuss further you are welcome to PM or e-mail me. Wish you every success on your Hobie Adventures.

John

_________________
The RIGID RAIL Accessory Mounting System is coming to a Hobie near you soon.

Variable Speed Electra Drive System Designed by: Phil Krug.
https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=62295&p=298578#p298578


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 Post subject: Re: TI outboard mount
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 1:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017 9:16 am
Posts: 19
Location: San Diego, CA
The reason I suggest a front and back plate is to introduce a 10° transom angle, alluded to earlier in this thread or another motor mount thread I believe. I don't think anyone has determined there is a real need for this.

I haven't measured the maximum opening of the outboard motor clamp, but this ends up being about 3" thick:

Image


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 Post subject: Re: TI outboard mount
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 1:35 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
Posts: 2988
Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
I just use pressure treated 2x4 wood for all my motor transom boards, seems to hold up fine, allows the little spikes in the motor bracket to dig in, and the big washers dig in over time. I think the wood also helps with vibration.
And best of all wood is very cheap, a 2x4 x 8ft is around $7-8 bucks and is enough to make a dozen mounts.
I'm not promoting one thing or another, just sharing what worked well for us.
Another factor for me is I would rather the transom board break off in the event of a terrible collision or mishap, (yea I've had a few horrendous crashes), way cheaper than a whole new lower unit or new kayak hull.
FE


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 Post subject: Re: TI outboard mount
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 2:20 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:13 pm
Posts: 327
domr wrote:
The reason I suggest a front and back plate is to introduce a 10° transom angle, alluded to earlier in this thread or another motor mount thread I believe. I don't think anyone has determined there is a real need for this.

I haven't measured the maximum opening of the outboard motor clamp, but this ends up being about 3" thick:

Image


The only thing to be careful about here is not to exceed the motor clamp's maximum opening.

The best transom angle (trim) setting has yet to be determined for a TI. It would be really great to make this adjustable for testing and also to compensate for different loads (e.g. if you had a passenger or not).

This could possibly be done by adding a pivot block to the mount.


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 Post subject: Re: TI outboard mount
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 3:30 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 3:25 pm
Posts: 30
Location: Seffner, Florida
Hi,

I am sorry, I missed your 10 Degree note in your original post.

Another way you could get your 10 degree angle with a lot less machining is to put a 10 degree shim between your 2 risers and the long cross bar. Then you wouldn't need an 10 degree taper block on the back and the front one could be flat.

Another thing you could do instead of cutting the recesses like I do is to use a hole saw and get you desired dimensions and just take a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate and drill the holes to the correct size and also drill a few other holes in the plate and bolt the plate with the holes in it to your bracket.

Having a CNC machine makes cutting the recesses a breeze. But if you are using other hand tools the hole saw technique will work just a well.

Just some suggestions that may be of help. BTW nice drawing. What CAD program are you using?

John

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The RIGID RAIL Accessory Mounting System is coming to a Hobie near you soon.

Variable Speed Electra Drive System Designed by: Phil Krug.
https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=62295&p=298578#p298578


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 Post subject: Re: TI outboard mount
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 6:51 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 3:25 pm
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Location: Seffner, Florida
Here is what I was talking about in a 10 Degree Wedge.

Image

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The RIGID RAIL Accessory Mounting System is coming to a Hobie near you soon.

Variable Speed Electra Drive System Designed by: Phil Krug.
https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=62295&p=298578#p298578


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 Post subject: Re: TI outboard mount
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 7:55 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 01, 2006 1:16 pm
Posts: 567
Location: Colorado
I have been using a Suzuki 2.5 on a TI since 2015 and dont know what problem you are trying to solve with the 10 degree angle?

So what is the problem being solved? What is the benefit?

Curious also.. Hobie cnc solutions, are you associated with Hobie the company that we all bought the boats from?


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 Post subject: Re: TI outboard mount
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 9:29 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017 9:16 am
Posts: 19
Location: San Diego, CA
walt wrote:
I have been using a Suzuki 2.5 on a TI since 2015 and dont know what problem you are trying to solve with the 10 degree angle?

So what is the problem being solved? What is the benefit?

Curious also.. Hobie cnc solutions, are you associated with Hobie the company that we all bought the boats from?


Not sure if there is a benefit but it would be interesting to test under various boat load conditions as pro10is suggested.


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 Post subject: Re: TI outboard mount
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 2:55 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 3:25 pm
Posts: 30
Location: Seffner, Florida
Hi Walt,

First, I am in no way affiliated with the Hobie Cat Company. I own a 2018 Hobie Pro Angler 14 witch I bought and paid for myself, not a Hobie team sponsored individual .

Thanks for your legitimate questions on the topic at hand.

I have a HAAS 2007 TM-1P 3 Axis CNC Milling machine and the necessary CAD/CAM software to design, items which in my opinion, are helpful and enhance the overall experience of my Hobie product. I have displayed items that fall into this category and others as time goes on.

I am no stranger to mounting trolling motors on Kayaks as I have made different versions to adapt different trolling motors to the former kayak that I owned. These worked well when properly installed and never had any complaints on the design offered.

One of the individuals that posted to this thread Indicated that he was wanting to apply a 10 degree offset to the mounting of his outboard. I did not question his reason for wanting to apply this offset. As this whole thread seems to revolve around DIY brackets that have been adapted to various customers Hobie Kayaks it would seem that their designs were offered here to generate discussion and hopefully add to the overall success of all the designs offered for consideration. It is up to each of us to determine which components of the DIY designs offered are suitable for their individual use.

Like you I am curious, and maybe you could tell me if any of these designs are copy righted i.e. patent pending?

My original question: Is anyone having any issues with the trolling motors/outboards coming loose from their individual setups, whatever they may be?

I have offered a few suggestions that MAY???? be of help. Maybe not, and it is up to each individual to determine if a suggestion is appropriate for their application.

I wish you every success with your application with your Suzuki 2.5 outboard and glad it has worked well for you.

Maybe???, the other user will respond on his reasoning for wanting a 10 Degree offset.

John

_________________
The RIGID RAIL Accessory Mounting System is coming to a Hobie near you soon.

Variable Speed Electra Drive System Designed by: Phil Krug.
https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=62295&p=298578#p298578


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 Post subject: Re: TI outboard mount
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 12:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 01, 2006 1:16 pm
Posts: 567
Location: Colorado
Thank you for the clarification. Nothing at all patented or copyright that I know of.. plus anything posted here becomes "prior art" after one year. I think everyone here just posts ideas because of enthusiasm.

I haven't messed with my mount since early in this thread as it seems to overall work well. I have the mount "normal" to the gunwale (ie, 90 degrees) and it seems to work nicely. Prop thrust vector is pretty much straight back. I have my mount more forward just behind the seat and am finding that its nice to have easy access to the throttle when I am motoring into coves. This is a tradeoff as if the outboard is close, you have easier access to the controls and I think also easier to pull start. But.. its louder that close to you and you also need some sort of splash guard to keep wash off the back round hatch (mine is not completely water tight). I motored about 10 miles yesterday and wore head sound protection while motoring. If the outboard was back a little, I probably would not need this.

The one thing that people have done is to raise the bottom of the mount somewhat off the gunwale and I wish I had this but not enough to change what I have.. The reason is that a large enough wave can hit the bottom of the mount where it sticks out and splash you (water was about 57F yesterday..). However, what I have is also just not that bad. I put in around 25 miles yesterday motoring and sailing and did not get splashed once.

This day some friends did a shuttle and launched about 14 miles down the lake and did a super nice down wind run. Their wifes did the shuttle. I just launched at the end point, motored down the lake at about 6 knots and met up with them fairly close to where they launched. Put the outboard up and we all sailed back to where we started which was just under 15 miles of mostly down wind sailing.

All these picture are hosted on FB so will go away after a while..

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


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