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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 5:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2016 1:12 pm
Posts: 48
Location: Sapulpa, Oklahoma
Several others have posted theirs, but here is a slightly different twist using similar methods to give other ideas.

First I used larger furling line so I could grip it easier without it cutting into my hand. The advantage is that it also spools out farther on the drum giving more leverage, but the downside is when storing the sail it barely all fits.
Image

Second I added a 29mm cheek block in the outer edge of the crossbar. I did have to drill and tap the bar since the existing holes do not line up. Moving the block out like this helps keep the furling line out of the way of your feet.
Image

Third I added a mounting rail just above the pocked by the front seat and added the controls here. This is super handy for the front seat position as the cleats are right there by your hand. Maybe a little to the side as you pull on them, but i'm usually in the rear seat anyway.
Image
Image

How does this help the rear seat? Notice the line guide also mounted to the rail? This is positioned so that the line is easily cleated and uncleated from the rear seat by aligning it through the cleat. Without this, it would be nearly impossible to lower the line enough to grab the cleat, instead it would always be lifted to the top of the cleat due to the angle.
Image

The rear unfurling line is still stock, but I do plan to move the cleat closer to the rear seat, but for now this works a LOT better.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2016 2:14 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:14 pm
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Location: South Florida
Nice!

Keith

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2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

"Less is more" Anon


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2016 2:21 pm 
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Looks like a very practical setup. Quick question on another topic - looks like you are using the Harbor Freight trailer - how did you extend the front to accommodate the length of the TI?
Thanks.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2017 11:19 am 
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Nice setup.

Could you provide the specific part numbers for the cheek block, rail (length?) and dual cam cleat that you used? Was your line guide a DIY job?

Also, does the rail have a backing plate inside the hull or washers & nuts? And how difficult is access to the inner hull where the rail is mounted?

Thanks,

Gary

2014 Tandem Island
1984 Hobie Hawk RC Glider


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2017 6:02 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 13, 2016 8:06 pm
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Location: Laem Sing, Chanthaburi, Thailand
Nice setup. I am also interested in your answers to Gary's questions.

I'm assuming you've replaced the furling line with 6mm line. Could you please tell me the length of that 6mm line you were able to fit on the spool to reach back to the rear seat position?

Thanks
John


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 2:38 pm 
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Kleake, that is a great setup. I have contacted all the aftermarket people and Harken themselves and shown them your pictures but no one knows where your twin cam cleat mount/plate comes from! Can you tell us where you got it?
Thanks.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2018 4:45 am 
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Location: Massachusetts and New Hampshire - Squam Lake
I was hoping to ressurect this post. I want to install a setup like this and I am not familiar with the rail setup. Can someone knowledgeable chime in and provide some direction. Are rails like this standard? Who makes them, what are they?

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2015 Tandem Island
Massachusetts and Squam Lake New Hampshire USA


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2018 7:48 am 
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Location: Sapulpa, Oklahoma
Sorry guys, I had this thread set to send me notifications, but I haven't gotten any.

jhawkman wrote:
Looks like a very practical setup. Quick question on another topic - looks like you are using the Harbor Freight trailer - how did you extend the front to accommodate the length of the TI?
Thanks.


I used a long stick of square tubing to extend the tongue, and it extends out the rear as well with a roller at each end to support the TI. If interested, I can get you pics of the trailer setup.

Edit: found one I posted previously that partially shows it.
Image

GaryInWI wrote:
Nice setup.
Could you provide the specific part numbers for the cheek block, rail (length?) and dual cam cleat that you used? Was your line guide a DIY job?

Also, does the rail have a backing plate inside the hull or washers & nuts? And how difficult is access to the inner hull where the rail is mounted?


Unfortunately I don't have the specific part numbers, but I basically went into my local West Marine and they had them on the shelf. The line guide is a DIY, just a piece of stainless wire that was already partially bent like I needed it. Added one bend and mounted it. Pretty simple to create one though, just need strong wire that won't rust.
The rail does have a backing plate inside the hull that the screws thread into. It was a challenge to reach the inner spot for the backing plate, but my son has small long arms and was able to reach it pretty well. My short arms wouldn't have worked very well. The rail is made by Yak Attack and is 12" long. My local kayak shop has these hanging on the shelf.

LSYak wrote:
I'm assuming you've replaced the furling line with 6mm line. Could you please tell me the length of that 6mm line you were able to fit on the spool to reach back to the rear seat position?
Thanks
John


Yes, I did upgrade the furling line to the same size as the others. I don't remember the length, but I measured the original line, added about 4 or 5ft to that. Basically enough extra, then cut it to the shortest that i could still reach comfortably. It won't all spool up when we remove the sail, but is close enough I can work with it. It spools fine while in use though.

jhawkman wrote:
I have contacted all the aftermarket people and Harken themselves and shown them your pictures but no one knows where your twin cam cleat mount/plate comes from! Can you tell us where you got it?
Thanks.


It was on the shelf at West Marine. No promises that I will find them, but I'll try to confirm the brand/part numbers if I can find the paperwork.

bluesman wrote:
I was hoping to ressurect this post. I want to install a setup like this and I am not familiar with the rail setup. Can someone knowledgeable chime in and provide some direction. Are rails like this standard? Who makes them, what are they?


The rails are made by Yak Attack, you can get them in multiple lengths but I used 12" versions. They have a backing rail that the mounting screws thread into. Not terribly hard to install, but definitely hard to reach. 2 people make it MUCH easier but they are SUPER handy for mounting anything you want.


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