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 Post subject: Hobie Mirage stability
PostPosted: Sun Jun 11, 2017 5:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2017 4:38 pm
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I just bought a 2005 hobie mirage outback fisherman kayak used but still in good shape. The problem Iam having with it is that it is very easy for the kayak to lean over so far that I have falling out of the kayak a couple of times. I have used other hobie mirages and they are much more stable. When I compare the shape of the bottom of my kayak to that of newer kayaks they are different. MY kayak is rounded on the very bottom like the newer ones are but as the shape flares out to the edge of the kayak the flare on my kayak is very smooth resulting in less stabilty. The newer kayaks have changed the shape of the hull so that it creates some resistence to the water just before it flows out from under the boat. My question is if I fiberglassed some narrow stripes of fibberglass along the bottom of my kayak just before the outer edge would this give me more stability? What would be the negative side of doing this? Thanks for any help


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 1:21 pm 
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Location: Aberdeenshire, Scotland, UK
Wrong forum... :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 1:56 pm 
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water wrote:
My question is if I fiberglassed some narrow stripes of fibberglass along the bottom of my kayak just before the outer edge would this give me more stability?

Actually there are some posts by fusioneng on the technical side of reshaping his TI hull, and the different way he would approach it next time.

One simple way to prototype stability changes might be to split a pool noodle in half lengthwise, fair the ends, and lightly glue in place with contact cement. Test, then move it and test again. If you ultimately want a chemical bond rather than more sticky contact cement, it may be tricky to find something compatible with both the slippery hull material and whatever you are tacking onto it.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 3:59 pm 
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Primary stabilty can be improved by lowering centre of gravity. Easiest way is to add ballast into bottom of hull. Water containers are good for this as you can fill them at launch to avoid hauling heavy kayak and they have neutral bouyancy so in an emergency they are not going to add weight to sink it. You just have to make sure they are fixed and can move about to destabilise you. Experiment with some weights to see if it has much impact in your case.

Other than that it may just be a case of becoming used to the stability of your kayak. As long as its symmetrical its all a matter of being used to it, not all kayak have substantial chines (the profile grooves you are saying are missing)


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