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PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 12:23 pm 
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Location: Sweden, sjöbo
Kal-P-Dal wrote:
Haka, very ligth and easy to fold.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwMjc8-UcHw

Br
Thomas (also living in Sweden)


Hej Thomas! Kul med fler Svenskar! :)

Nice and simple ... and light!!... Haka sollution! :)

Give me a shout if you are passing thru Skåne!

Vi hörs!
/Gustav

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 12:34 pm 
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Buckaroo wrote:
Spaflex, the flexible glueable PVC tubing used in hot tubs works a lot better than pool noodles to set the spine boards on. It's very tough and non slip against the spine board. I have some pics over in the Haka thread.
I split it down the middle with a jigsaw and made cutouts for the various fittings. It snaps over the akas very tightly and provides a very non slip surface for the 2 Ft straps I secure the spineboards with.

I've sketched a few ideas for hinged mounting hardware. I think I would still use the Spaflex for the Haka to sit on and use concentric pieces of pipe side mounted on the aka as the pivot and bend a sheet metal cradle for attachment to the Spineboard. I seem to remember the Spineboards are foam filled but don't know if it's an open cell foam that might get waterlogged if you drilled holes in them.

Chris


Hello Chris! Yes I saw your sollution on the "Haka-thread". Very inovative.
:D
Hmm foamfilled.. yes I was afraid of that. I better seal everything carefully if I start drilling holes in the spline boards.
Thanks for the tip.
/Gustav

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 1:19 pm 
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Full day tinkering...

Saturday and its been raining all day long... good day for pressing on with the project.

I made a mod of the MD plug for the forward well. Until now I have been using the plug with a foam seal to stop the inflow of water when using the 4-stroke. Of course this seal stops the water to drain if the yak gets splashed.
So I ordered a 1 3/4" non return valve. Its tight but after a bit of messuring, cutting and messing about I got the valve in place. :D

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It still needs some sealant but before i "glue" it into place I want to test it on the water. I hope it stops the big inflow of water beiing pressed in by the kayak trying to plane. The lower rim of the MD plug will be totally sealed off with a peace of PU-foam strip. :D

I fixed some clips and wire for the pins on mount for the extra aka arms and same for the anchor roller.

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Mounted some cleats to secure the anchor line under the handrails in the middle, and also in the rear for the lines to the drift socks.

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Finaly got my compass mounted. The bracket I made can be adjusted to get the bearing 100% correct on the compass.
The compass easily lifts out if needed during transport. A red light for night-use is available! 8)

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Tomorrow I have some navigation lights to fix that will be mounted together with the radar reflector.
A few more cleats to fix for the sheet/furl lines.
Some more tinkering with the mast-tip rotator... I might try to extend the tip of the mast about 20". That would solve the problem with the sail getting cought on the halyard. A 30mm carbon tube that I wrap with more carbon resin ontop of the mast tip. All removable of course.
I got to order some materials tomorrow. I hope carbon will make the extension strong, yet still light. And the tip-rotator can then be fixed on top of the mast tip extension and bolted on so it doesnt rattle around any more. :?

And... (I am ashamed to admit it but) ... I AM STILL NOT DONE WITH THE TRANSDUCER MOUNTS!! :lol:
Tomorrow!!!
:mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 4:59 pm 
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Location: Sweden, sjöbo
I was working half day at the office today (overtime) but I got some stuff done once I finaly got home. :)

The last few days I have been thinking a lot about the mast tip issues.
So today I messured and decided on a fix. The problem with the sail getting cought on the halyard bugs me!! To partially furl and then come about might work if just sailing but when fishing/trolling theres to much other stuff going on. Kinda weird really that Hobie accepts this problem without making the problem visible before selling the product? :?

Well anyway I decided to make an extension (~ 20") of the mast and then firmly fix the tip rotator ontop. This will lift the halyard so it clears the sail. The extension will be made from carbon tubes that I will modify/taper to properly fit the top 12" of the mast. I ordered the carbon tubes and some carbon fiber mat today. So I will get this done in the next few weeks. Sadly this delay might force me to wait with the test of the automatic inflatable mast float until spring arrives. :(
Of course I want to make the test with the new modified mast tip mounted. (There is a lot of work involved setting up the test so I want everything spot on and also sacrifising a70gr co2 cartridge costs $20).
Only time can tell if we get the chance to do the trial before winter arrives but our chances look prety slim at the moment.

This little extra mast tip project will set me back about $70 plus some extra work of course but I figure it will be worth the extra effort to make this work as I want it to.
The tip rotator will have to support the mast float, some navigations lights, radar reflector and also in the future a furling jib/genua that I am planning.
So making the mast tip / and rotator really durable and solid seems like a good investment to avoid future trouble.

Ahh speaking about navigation lights... I slowly started the work on that issue today.
Apart from the white stern light on the top of the riser bar plus the combo red/gren light up front there will be a white 360 top light and also a red and a green 360 top light. I have combined theese tops lights with the radar-reflector.
The red and green lights just fitted inside the clear plastic tube for the reflector if I sacrifised a section of the reflector. Just perfect!! :lol:
I will add a few plastic discs to mount the lines thru the light/reflector-combo and als the white top light will be screwed on at the top end.

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The white top light and the red/green top lights will be indivually controlled from the rear seat.
The combo will be hoisted on the starboard side of the mast and the mast float goes on the port side.
In good weather, good visibility they will be stored under the front hatch.

I drilled and mounted the cleat for the furling line. It sits very comfortable just outside the rudder handle.

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On the other side I also mounted a cleat facing backwards to make it possible to pull out slack line of the dispenser if that is needed to stop it from winding it in.

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I will also move the main sheet automatic cleat from the aka cross bar to a position just in front of the starboard handle rail. This will make it easier and more convieniant to acess and give better control when sitting in the rear seat.

Bilge pump... yes got that done aswell.... hmm well I did a quick fix anyway.
I temporarily mounted it in the back just using a piece of foam and som bungies. Still sits pretty nicely but once I know the best/correct position I will make a better fixed pemanent mount.

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So... and what about the ... yes... the transducer mounts??
Nope! Sorry! LOL! :oops:
Some things never seem to get done...
Tomorrow maybe!!??
:mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 3:16 am 
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Location: Austin Texas
Gustav
Do you think that a fully rigged TI could be suspended by the gunwales ? I've been toying with the idea of making some landing gear type wheels that swing or drop down on the sides of the boat. They would have to be attached to something bolted to the gunwales, perhaps an aluminum extrusion like you have used or some square tubing or bar channel.
I thought you might have a valuable opinion about this since you have drilled more holes in the gunwales than anyone else I have seen on the forum.
This may be my project for the winter here in Texas.

I really like the main sheet riser as a navigation light mounting point to get it up where other boaters can see it. My red and green lights are going on gear track on the front crossbar, right next to the ice machine and popcorn popper :)

Thanks
Chris


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 5:19 am 
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Buckaroo wrote:
Gustav
Do you think that a fully rigged TI could be suspended by the gunwales ? I've been toying with the idea of making some landing gear type wheels that swing or drop down on the sides of the boat. They would have to be attached to something bolted to the gunwales, perhaps an aluminum extrusion like you have used or some square tubing or bar channel.
I thought you might have a valuable opinion about this since you have drilled more holes in the gunwales than anyone else I have seen on the forum.
This may be my project for the winter here in Texas.

I really like the main sheet riser as a navigation light mounting point to get it up where other boaters can see it. My red and green lights are going on gear track on the front crossbar, right next to the ice machine and popcorn popper :)

Thanks
Chris


Hi Chris!
LOL! Yes there are a lot of holes in my TI!! :lol: ( I stopped counting ! :oops: )

Anyway I sure find the gunwales on most places to be very solid and sturdy. I you strengthen the mounting brackets for the beach wheels with a long enough internal metal bar there should be no problem to "lift" the TI by using the gunwale. Make sure the internal metal bar has no sharp corners and apply some sort of filler ( I used Sikaflex on most places). The filler has to be hard enough but still a bit flexible. The metal bar should be as long as possible but I guess 1' is enough in most cases. Considering all the extra weight on my TI I made the internal bar about 30" long as I recall it.
For extra safety I will also add a strap under the hull between the two "landning gears". Once I rolled "the Beast" up on the beach I will put the strap on.

The "Beach Wheel" part of my project is a bit delayed... I guess I missed a deadline or two already! :lol:
Maybe the installtion of my ice machine took to much time!? :lol: :lol:
But I will continue workning on this soon. :)
Hmmm Pop-corn popper... Mmmmm ..... Doughnut machine.... ops!! Sorry about that... guess its time for lunch soon!!

Looking forward to see your landning gear/beach Wheel sollution.

PS I have read some reviews of the Boondox landing gear and there are som problems with the internal metal plates making the gunwale crack when installed on heavy kayaks as the PA. Bare in mind that the Boondox plates only are around 3-4" long. With longer internal plates supporting the weight there should be no problem.

All the best!
/Gustav

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Last edited by Husse0416 on Mon Oct 16, 2017 2:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 10:53 am 
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Location: Austin Texas
Thanks for the consult Gustav :)
I'll have to look back at your earlier posts, I didn't realize you were planning something similar.

I use the larger Tuff-Tres on the scupper cart but should probably have the option of installing beach wheels or Tuff Tires on the landing gear since I'm planning to go to the beach eventually.

I used butyl tape under my Yakattack tracks for the motor mount. It's something I already have for my camper and makes a pretty great seal.

I will make as long a mounting as possible with a backing plate as you said. May run it under the crossbar as well.

Don't forget you also need a lighted makeup mirror for Supermodels :)
I'm only half kidding. Whenever I take my girlfriend and her friends they show up with new swimsuits and makeup on. Took me a while to realize it's a picture taking opportunity for them. :roll: :roll: :roll:

Thanks

Chris


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 12:18 pm 
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Location: Sweden, sjöbo
Oboy what a rainy weekend..., the rain only stopped for 2 hours in the afternoon but otherwise has been raining steadiliy for 48 hours.... *sigh*

Anyway I finished the top mast navigationlights. The LED bulbs will be changed from the white original bulbs to red/green LEDs to make the colors stronger/better otherwise its done. A waterproof connector will be mounted near the mast to make it quick and easy to set up and hoist the top mast navlights when needed.

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Today I made the top bracket for the riser bar.
3pcs of 1" clamps keep the alumium plate firmly in place. Stability is important as I will lay one end of the mast up onto the plate. I mounted a halftube as a cradle for the mast to stop in from rolling. A tarp will be sewn to hang over the mast and i will hang my hammock underneath from the riserbar at one end. (The other end of the hammock will be fastened at the front antenna mount on the elctric motor plate).
This way I can anchor and camp out on the water if needed. :)
Under the plate hangs the new pulley for the main sheet and the stern navlight is mounted at the back end.
Some anntennas for GPS and LTE/3G/4G will in the future be mounted ontop of the plate.

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The riser bar can still be folded easily with everything mounted if needed for shorter transports or going under low bridges.
I accually think this will work as I planned. 8)

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This week I got my new gear crate and also a soft fish bag. I'm sorry Hobie I checked your gear but I definately found Feefrees stuff more suitable. The quality is accually really nice, good materials and very nice stiching.
(Hobie have better watch its back, the competition is fierce on the kayak market right now!) :shock:

The layout and design of both the crate and fishbag is very smart.
My big tackle boxes fit perfectly in the crate so its just perfect! :lol:

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The fish bag is designed for the bow or stern but I will mount it out on the aka/tramp on the port side.
A smart extra zipper ontop of the bag gives quick acces to the innes plastic/pvc inner bag to slide in fish. For the "big ones" the front opens upp.
Good handes and tiedowns/carabiners on both sides.

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The desert camo suits my setup just perfectly!

Well thats all I got done this rainy weekend... more to be done... much more... and more fun!!
:mrgreen:
/Gustav

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 12:42 am 
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Slow progress....

The last months I have been cought up at work with lots of overtime and a bigger workload then usual so this has unfortunately not given me much sparetime to work on my TI. :(

I have a week holliday coming up after Christmas so I will use the time to get the project going again.
I now have got most of the stuff delivered that I need for the electronics. All connectors I will be using are waterproof (IP68 rated) and I am looking forward to get all the electronics installed. At the moment I am drawing and planning all the internal wiring. :D

So I wish all you guys Merry Christmas and hope to post some results soon.

/ Gustav

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 10:01 am 
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Location: Cleveland, OH
Merry Christmas to you too! Enjoying this build looking forward to seeing it in action. My TI electric system:

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Ak9wdPhbBswggZVawuKE5Tc1uIOYuQ

I used the standard Hobie battery holder and a plumber's stainless flexible coupler as a mast tube bracket. Battery stays dry and isolated. I used stainless posts for the TI side and simple alligator clips from the battery or any 12v source. The circuits are each fused (up to five) with a marine grade fuseblock.

I run USB charging and a Lowrance 500. Lights are internal battery only. So far, perfectly reliable and meets my needs.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 1:58 am 
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This thread is a wild ride!

Thank you so much for taking the time to document your work Gustav.

You have certainly given me food for thought!

Some of the images in this thread will not load or have broken links (I am not expecting you to remedy this by the way!), does anyone else have this problem?

Lycka till with your build and I look forward to seeing the prize ( Giant Halibut) from all your hard work and effort!


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 7:31 am 
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The images in Husse's last post seem to download slowly. I can see them all now.

Keith

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 11:41 am 
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Gustav, just a few comments regarding navigation lights
[quote]International Collision Regulations‎ > ‎Part C - Lights and shapes‎ > ‎
Rule 25 - Sailing vessels underway and vessels under oars
(a) A sailing vessel underway shall exhibit:

(i) sidelights;

(ii) a sternlight.

(b) In a sailing vessel of less than 20 metres in length the lights prescribed in paragraph (a) of this Rule may be combined in one lantern carried at or near the top of the mast where it can best be seen.

(d) (i) A sailing vessel of less than 7 metres in length shall, if practicable, exhibit the lights prescribed in paragraph (a) or (b) of this Rule, but if she does not, she shall have ready at hand an electric torch or lighted lantern showing a white light which shall be exhibited in sufficient time to prevent collision.
[quote]
The accompanying illustration shows deck level OR masthead lights. I do not believe it is legal to show both.
Navigation lights at deck level on an Island will be very difficult to see in anything but mirror-flat water, and can thus give a false sense of security that other vessels can see you; therefore masthead lights are far superior
But....

I very strongly recommend that you abandon your navigation lights entirely, and instead show a single white light. to comply with (d) (i) above, for the very good reason, that when you display a single white light (as high above the water as possible) the most likely mistake the shipper of an approaching vessel will make is assume you are at anchor. This is a far safer error than seeing your full navigation lights and assuming you are able to manouvre out of their way..

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker and Hangkai outboard
only cool people follow the (non-magnetic) titanium weight-loss program! lol.)


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 2:36 pm 
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Of course, when you are running under motor, you are then deemed to be a motor vessel, and required to carry both navigation lights, AND a forward facing white steaming light, located below and masthead navigation lights.

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker and Hangkai outboard
only cool people follow the (non-magnetic) titanium weight-loss program! lol.)


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