Return to Hobie.com

Hobie Forums

It is currently Thu Nov 23, 2017 1:16 pm

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 188 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 7:22 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:17 pm
Posts: 401
Location: Austin Texas
I have been using that Eastwood powder coat gun for a few years now and still think it's a pretty good gun for the money. Their powders are good too.
I like powder coating but I tend to paint more because it's easier to touch up/repair; but for the boat I wouldn't use anything else. PC is a bear to remove it's so tough. I usually resort to fire followed by wire brushing and sandblasting.
You can use heat lamps to cure powder coat but I haven't tried it. It looks like you have to experiment with your lamp setup for a while to get it right. I always use an oven ( not the one I cook brownies in :) ) and get flawless results when I spend the time to prep properly.

Chris


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 11:38 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 1:46 am
Posts: 232
Location: Sweden, sjöbo
Buckaroo wrote:
I have been using that Eastwood powder coat gun for a few years now and still think it's a pretty good gun for the money. Their powders are good too.
I like powder coating but I tend to paint more because it's easier to touch up/repair; but for the boat I wouldn't use anything else. PC is a bear to remove it's so tough. I usually resort to fire followed by wire brushing and sandblasting.
You can use heat lamps to cure powder coat but I haven't tried it. It looks like you have to experiment with your lamp setup for a while to get it right. I always use an oven ( not the one I cook brownies in :) ) and get flawless results when I spend the time to prep properly.

Chris


Thanks for the review Chris! :) Sound great!
I will look for a retailer in Sweden/Europe if I can find one otherwise I hope ghey can ship it overseas!
:)
Is definately something I will use a lot!
All the best!
/Gustav

_________________
Sailing my TI and fishing.... thats bliss!!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2017 3:17 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 1:46 am
Posts: 232
Location: Sweden, sjöbo
Mast-tip rotator...
Finaly delivery arrived yesterday so I started rigging the masttip and the guide lines.
Very good sturdy (reinforced?) plastic in the mast-tip rotator and the ball bearing is just great so I am positive it will handle the loads fine. But... the hole for the mast-tip is about 2-3 mm to big?!
Is there a reason for this? Is that intensional?
I was wondering if Hobie did lenghten the mast on the 2015 TI upgrade and if so making the mast-tip thinner? Maybe this is the reason that the fit is so bad that maybe they did not upgrade the mast-tip rotator??

Image



I will have to mould a thin g/f-epoxy cap so the tip rotator fits better and dont "wiggle around" as much.

In the mean time I mounted the brackets on the rotator for the Harken micro 22mm pulleys that will hoist the mastfloat and nav.lights/radar reflector.

Image
Image
Image

I also finnished the new furl line setup in the front. Welded on a bracket with a line guide for the furl spool. Now it works flawlessly. :D
The line runs down the port side to the rear seat. I was planning to drill holes for new line guides on the side of the yak but decided to use the mounting points for the paddle (bungie) holders that I will never use anyway. This will work great and I save the yak from new holes... this time anyway! :lol:

Image
Image
Image
Image

The main sheet line will also be altered slightly as I will start mounting the automatic line dispenser rolls tomorrow.

Image
Image

It will be great to get rid of all the loose slack line laying on the bottom in rear cockpit when I am done.

More tomorrow... bilge pump mount and will finish the transducer mounts.
/Gustav

_________________
Sailing my TI and fishing.... thats bliss!!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 11:11 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 1:46 am
Posts: 232
Location: Sweden, sjöbo
Sunday evening allready...? Weekends are just to short right now...

Managed to get a few things on the long list done today....

Started off with modding the rudder bracket/gudgeon. The stern on the TI is round and the gudgeon flat and this puts a lot of load on the bolts. So I sanded down the gudgeon to make it fit better. Remounted it with Sikaflex.

Image
Image
Image

Feels good to bulletproof the TI! :D

Started with the builgepump. Mounted the outlet on the rear. Still figuring out how to best mount the pump in the bottom.

Image
Image
Image

Waterproofing the rim with Sikaflex. Still waiting for the one-way valve to get delivered.

So after lunch I pressed on with the transducer mounts. Yup I really need a new welder the result is not pretty... but it will do for now and maybe I will redo the build in aluminium in the future. :?

Image
Image
Image

Some holes still needs drilling and the clasp will be welded for the stop holes. I hope the clasp gets delivered soon. Goto have the exact messurements before I can finish the details. :)

I will try to mould the g/f cap to the mast tip during the week so I can get ready for the sea trial of the mastfloat.

Monday tomorrow... how is this possible? :shock:
Se ya!
:mrgreen:

_________________
Sailing my TI and fishing.... thats bliss!!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 2:46 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:13 pm
Posts: 229
Husse0416 wrote:
...So after lunch I pressed on with the transducer mounts. Yup I really need a new welder the result is not pretty...

Get that MIG and your welds could look as nice as this:

Image

Someone as interested in and as talented at DIY metalworking as you deserves great tools.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 4:09 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2014 1:30 pm
Posts: 299
I think he has a mig...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 9:36 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 1:46 am
Posts: 232
Location: Sweden, sjöbo
Defy wrote:
I think he has a mig...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nope, sadly my old MIG is busted. :( I have been stick welding most of the stuff.
I will get a new welder soon.

:mrgreen:

_________________
Sailing my TI and fishing.... thats bliss!!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 1:25 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:17 pm
Posts: 401
Location: Austin Texas
I highly recommend you check out TIG welding before you buy anything. I have both TIG and MIG and rarely use the MIG machine anymore. There are a lot of YouTube VLOGS (Weldingtipsandtricks is very good) to check out both processes. It's a little more complicated to use but if your stick machine is DC capable it would be cheaper to just get a scratch start TIG torch and argon bottle.

On your bilge pump mounting: How about a bracket concentric with the far side of the bilge outlet with perhaps a single additional screw through the top deck to keep it from rotating. Then a separate piece of material that does down to the pump ? Maybe attach the pump to it with a separate piece of something flexible to account for hull flex.

cheers

Chris


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 6:32 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 1:46 am
Posts: 232
Location: Sweden, sjöbo
Buckaroo wrote:
I highly recommend you check out TIG welding before you buy anything. I have both TIG and MIG and rarely use the MIG machine anymore. There are a lot of YouTube VLOGS (Weldingtipsandtricks is very good) to check out both processes. It's a little more complicated to use but if your stick machine is DC capable it would be cheaper to just get a scratch start TIG torch and argon bottle.

On your bilge pump mounting: How about a bracket concentric with the far side of the bilge outlet with perhaps a single additional screw through the top deck to keep it from rotating. Then a separate piece of material that does down to the pump ? Maybe attach the pump to it with a separate piece of something flexible to account for hull flex.

cheers

Chris



Thanks for the tip Chris. I am still wainting for the non-return valve. Usually stuff on ebay gets shipped right away but when I e-mailed this company they answered thatvghey ship after about 10 days! :( So I guess it will take a week before I have the valve.
I Have a few ideas how to keep the pump in place. Might be a good idea to be able to move it if needed so I will first try to wedge in in place with some foam.

TIG welding alu is a pain, takes a lot of practice so i will go for a new MIG. (My welding skills suck! LOL)
I have a TIG add-on but seldom use it.

Mounted the new HID/downscan in the transducer hatch. This transducer wil be the only fixed transducer so I got the better HDI version. I was a lot bigger then expected... I was lucky it barely fitted but now sits tightly! :)

Image
Image

Also got the new ropes for the main. furler and anchor.
5mm for the sail / mast, so I attached the line in the automatic line dispensers and will get them mounted tomorrow. They dilled up with about 10m of gbe 5mm line so that is plenty! :)

Image
Image

The dive reel is now spooled wigb 45m of 4mm PP line, feels pretty solid.

Image
:D
Soon weekend again... gosh time is flying!!

_________________
Sailing my TI and fishing.... thats bliss!!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 6:53 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Thu Jun 01, 2006 1:16 pm
Posts: 492
Location: Colorado
I watched a video that I think someone at Hobie had put together for mounting a depth transducer inside the hull and they used a glue called "goop".

I used it recently to glue some foam guides for my battery box and so far it seems to stick well to the plastic hull. Maybe this would be useful for somehow containing a bilge pump?

I cam across this video recently and thought of you guys that fish and have you Hobie's outfitted for fishing. We possibly have the ultimate fish slaying TI here in this thread.. but does it have some provision to deal with this problem???

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcLV2CWi8oI&t=45s


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 2:02 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 1:46 am
Posts: 232
Location: Sweden, sjöbo
walt wrote:
I watched a video that I think someone at Hobie had put together for mounting a depth transducer inside the hull and they used a glue called "goop".

I used it recently to glue some foam guides for my battery box and so far it seems to stick well to the plastic hull. Maybe this would be useful for somehow containing a bilge pump?

I cam across this video recently and thought of you guys that fish and have you Hobie's outfitted for fishing. We possibly have the ultimate fish slaying TI here in this thread.. but does it have some provision to deal with this problem???

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcLV2CWi8oI&t=45s


Being attacked by lit up "agro" Sharks when sitting in a small kayak is kinda fun........ to watch on youtube anyway! LOL!
Well the little ones dont scare me but I have a healthy respect for the "Whites". Cudos to the guys in Cal, Oz and other locations who have to share the water with theese submarines! :D

I hope I can make the long trips in the future to OZ west coast, Florida and maybe even California/Baja but as for now my biggest issue concerning fishes (sharks included) is the Herring!!!
Dam thoose herrings!! Yup they are a menice!! LOL!
The are so plentiful here in Oresund (South Sweden) right now that they black out the bottom on the sounder and the Cod dont bite, the have to much bait allready!!
LOL!!

Marine Goop is some sort of Silicon adhesive (I Think), I have never tried it but they say it sticks pretty good to HDPE. MarineGoop is another way to mount an internal transducer if the yak dont have a "Lowrance ready" well. Its important to avoid no air/bubbles under the transducer in the glue, can be hard to detect I guess. The transucer well on the Hobies is a great feature, no hasle at all!! :D

I like the idea to glue on a piece of foam and wedge in the pump under it. I was thinking of something like that. I will first try out the best location for the pump with the kayak loaded up in the water and see where the water pooles when I use the outboard. I figure if I need the pump I probably have a BIG leakage problem and will be heading for land ASAP using the motor.

All the best
/Gustav

_________________
Sailing my TI and fishing.... thats bliss!!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 6:38 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:13 pm
Posts: 229
Goop is not silicone based, it is Styrene-butadiene rubber in a toluene solvent solution. The toluene evaporates leaving the rubber base. There is another version of it made by the same company, Eclectic Products, called E-6000. This has the same Styrene-butadiene base but the solvent is Tetrachloroethylene (dry cleaning fluid) instead of toluene. Tetrachloroethylene is actually considered safer than toluene because it's less toxic. Toluene is the same solvent used in plastic model glue which is infamous for glue sniffing.

Goop and all of its derivatives: Marine Goop, Automotive Goop, Plumber's Goop, Shoe Goop, etc. are basically the same product with some very slight alterations. For example, Marine Goop is Goop with a UV resistant additive.

I used to really like Goop, and used it for many years. It adheres well and is reasonably tough and flexible. It flows a bit too easily and sets up slowly so it's quite difficult to get it to stay in place until it dries, but you can work around that once you get used to it.

What ultimately stopped me from using and recommending it was its lack of longevity. It's fine for a year or so and then it begins to yellow and become brittle, even though it's advertised not to. Ultimately it becomes so hard and brittle that it fails. It's good for short term use but I would not recommend it for long term use. I would rate this adhesive a 5 out of 10. The best use I found for it is repairing worn out tennis shoes. You could use it for the bilge pump but don't expect it to last multiple seasons. It will need to be replaced eventually.

Getting any adhesive to stick to the Hobie's polyethylene hull is tricky. Polyethylene is very slippery and notoriously difficult to glue. Even the incredible polyurethane based Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200, one of the best adhesives available to the general public and orders of magnitude better than Goop, has a hard time sticking to it and is not rated by 3M for polyethylene adhesion, although I have tried it with limited success.

There are very few adhesives that I'm aware of which are actually rated by the manufacturer for adhesion to polyethylene. One is Aron Alpha 414TXZ (and other Aron Alpha products). This is a cyanoacrylate based adhesive, like Super Glue, but a much more concentrated industrial form of it. For polyethylene use, it needs to be prepared with Aron Alpha PP Primer. I'm not a fan of cyanoacrylate glues so I was reluctant to use it. However I will admit that it has, so far, held up after a full season's use of adhering my bilge pump, although it has come a tad loose in one section. I'm hesitant to recommend it however, until I test it further. I feel Cyanoacrylate glues are not flexible enough for such use.

Another promising adhesive rated to adhere to "low energy" surfaces such as polyethylene is 3M Scotch-Weld™ Structural Plastic Adhesive DP8005. I'm definitely going to try this next. I think this might be the answer but I can't recommend it until I test it. Give it a try if you want, it's the best potential solution I've yet found.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 7:06 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 1:46 am
Posts: 232
Location: Sweden, sjöbo
pro10is wrote:
Goop is not silicone based.......
SNIPPED
....

Another promising adhesive rated to adhere to "low energy" surfaces such as polyethylene is 3M Scotch-Weld™ Structural Plastic Adhesive DP8005. I'm definitely going to try this next. I think this might be the answer but I can't recommend it until I test it. Give it a try if you want, it's the best potential solution I've yet found.


Brilliant!! Thanks a million for all the info adressing the "adhesiv" issue!
It sure is hard to get anything to stick to PE plastics. My cheap "china yak" is made from LDPE and that is even worse thennthe HDPE ... very slippery.

I will try the new 3M product and se if that might be useful.
:)
I will post when I got the pump in place!
All the best!
/Gustav

_________________
Sailing my TI and fishing.... thats bliss!!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 10:07 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:13 pm
Posts: 229
There are a lot of "3M Scotch-Weld" adhesives, but only the DP8005 and DP8010 types are specifically formulated for polyolefins, so be careful purchasing. Also, be aware that they're quite expensive and require a special applicator which is also expensive. These are professional adhesives and not normally marketed or sold to the general public, but you can get them at Jamestown Distributors or Amazon.

Also, you might want to try JB Weld Plastic Bonder. This too is rated for thermoplastics including polyethylene. I don't think it'll be quite as strong as the professional 3M Scotch-Weld products, but it's a lot less expensive, requires no special applicator, and may well do the job.

All of these adhesives are on my to-do list to try.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 8:53 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 1:46 am
Posts: 232
Location: Sweden, sjöbo
I mounted the line dispensers for the main sheet and furler line today.
Amazing!! It accually works perfectly!!
Nice to see a weird idea put into practice and see it working. This will be a big improvement and help avoid line tangling and make the sailing even simpler.
:D

Image


I changed the stock sheet line (8mm ?) To a thinner 5mm line to make it fit better inside the rather small dispenser reel. It works well but its a bit harder on the skin/hands. Gloves is a good idea and maybe I will upgrade to a 6mm line in the future. As for now I am still very happy with the result. I dont know for how long the line dispenser will hold up. It is glued together and I guess the spring inside might rust and maybe brake in the future. (I bought 2 spares, $15pcs so its not a very costly matter)

It has been a lovely sunny (but cold) day here in Sweden. So I took the oportunity to mount and try out all of the junk on the yak.
I also made some mesurements for wires for the electronics. Wiring will take some time. Also I decided were and how to mount the analog compass. Found the perfect place on the aka crossbar.

Image
Image
Image
Image

Is this build "overkill"??
Oh yes!
Definately!!
But sure is a lot of fun! :lol:
(I know ... I am considered a "lost case"!)

Loads of stuff so rigging/mounting takes a while if I would have to launch from a beach far off from parking.
But I guess I wont be going "all in" fully rigged on every fishing trip, it depends on lots of factors.
It is still 100% doable to lauch fully rigged from the trailer on a boat ramp.
Most of the ad-ons fold nicely into a big "package" so shorter transports is fine without stripping everything. I will just lift off the 4-stroke and electric motor and maybe unload the batteries and then the TI will sit just fine on the trailer.
For longer trips I will probably also strip the yak from electronics, rodholders etc. and cover up the TI with a tarp to save it from the road dust.

Image
Image
Image

I am working on how to best utilize the trailer.
My first idea was to build a 2' high storage box underneath the kayak but this would make launching/loading much harder and increase ware and tare on the kayak. So now I am instead considering to build the compartment box on a stand above the kayak. At the front of the trailer I will make a small separate box for the 4-stroke, electric and the batteries.
The box ontop will hold some stuff for the kayak, fishing and camping gear, and some other stuff that might not fit inside my car.
On top of the box I plan to mount a roof-top tent.

Image

Just love the tents from Gordigear!! :D
I am saving up and might buy a tent next year.
:mrgreen:
If I make the stand for the elevated trailerbox removable it will also be possible to unload the box on the ground on the stands and drive away with the trailer with the yak to fish away from the campsite.
I really like the idea but weight and balance of the trailer is an issue I must carefully consider. I dont want the trailer to be top heavy as I might do a bit of off-roading. I might build the stand from aluminium tubing to save weight and keep the balance lower. :roll:
Exiting plans! There are so many wild places to explore!! :mrgreen:

I am molding an adaptor cap right now for the mast tip rotator to compensate for the poor fit. Just waiting for the resin to cure.
I did a short test test earlier today but had some problems with the batten cap getting caught on the halyard line.... :shock:
I must figure this out?! :? There has to be a simple sollution as this is a stock option for the TI ?!

Well coffy break is over, a few hours light left... back to work!
:mrgreen:

_________________
Sailing my TI and fishing.... thats bliss!!


Last edited by Husse0416 on Sun Oct 08, 2017 9:50 am, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 188 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13  Next

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
© Hobie Cat Company. All rights reserved.
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group