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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 11:15 am 
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mswlogo wrote:
Husse0416 wrote:
I am accually thinking about trying to tow a kayak after my TI for loading some gear and to use as a secondary kaya on longer trips.
I will test to tow my little china yak next season. I have heard that towing kayaks can be a bit problematic as they tend so zigzag a lot?
I have never tried it. Was thinking about rigging a rudder controlled by the towline if necessary to make the towed kayak follow better in line and nit zigzaging.

All the best!
/Gustav


Just set the rudder straight, no need to steer it.



Thanks for the info and pics! :)
Off course its very smart to utilize the width of the TI and if I tie a rope from each aka and tie them togheter forming a tringle behind the TI it will work as a tow bar. Further more I will be adding a thin pcv tube straight back and fasten the towed kayak at the end of it. This will keep the distance betwwen the kayaks and stop the tow from jerking or crashing into the TI.
A plausible idea that might work as I want it has suddenly formed inside my head.
Thanks again for the input!
:D

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 12:29 pm 
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Some small stuff got done tonight....

Got home from work around 4pm and started finishing the rail-plates for the rodholders on the rear extra akas.
Looks ok! :D

Image
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I finished and mounted the anchor roller on the left rail-plate. This will help a lot to hoist the anchor with less effort. (I must be kind of lazy.... :lol: )

Painted the rear extra aka tubes. The paint I use is supposed to work on aluminium without primer... well we will see if it sticks or flakes of!? :roll:

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Hope it dries quickly so I can mount everything tomorrow. I am heading out again on Sunday so got to have it all mounted.

I also made 4 little stainless plates for strengthening the pulleys on the anchor trolley. Will mount them tomorrow, already dark and its raining. Goodmto know everything is sturdy and properly mounted.

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Image

It might even look good? :roll:

Well I am all out of energy... its been a long day.... time for a "cold one" and to rest my old feet!

More to come...
Tomorrow I will finaly weld the transducer mounts... I never seem to get this done... but tomorrow... I hope!! :roll:
All the best!
:mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 4:39 pm 
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What do you cut all this stuff with??? You need a waterjet or a cnc if you dont have one.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 12:41 am 
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Defy wrote:
What do you cut all this stuff with??? You need a waterjet or a cnc if you dont have one.


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"Luke.... never underestimate the power of the AGLEGRINDER !!!" :lol:

Sorry, I am a bit silly in the mornings... well 24-7 really! :D

It's really not very dificult to cut out and make most stuff with an anglegrinder using cutting and abrasive discs. (And a fair amount of time and effort).
Some other motorized hand tools can be useful of course but I dont have anything like a real proffesional workshop (I wish).

Mmmm... (dreaming) ... it sure would be fantastic to have a good lathe, waterjet and a CNC-macine but I would not use it often enough and thoose things are just way to expensive (out of my league). :)

I am still planning for a 3D printer... that will be a great contribution the the workshop.

Accually I often find the biggest problem to be finding the right materials to work with. 316 stainless steel is mostly not in stock at the hardware stores so they have to order that in specially for me. Most metals (in Sweden anyway) are only avalible in full 6 meter lenghts or plates often in 1,2x2,4 meter (swedish std). So I often keep an eye out when visiting junk yards and such. The thin stainless steel plate I have been using a lot in this project was bought 15 years ago in some junkyard in town... and yes ... I have a lot of junk in my own backyard. Just ask the Mrs and she will tell you!! :lol: :lol:

So dust off your garage-tools and "Just do it!!".
:mrgreen:
/Gustav

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 1:09 am 
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I just love that song " Paint it black!".... :P
Started the day with mounting the stuff I made yesterday...
(Just in for a quick coffy)

The extra akas really look a lot better in black. : 8) The finnish accually came out pretty ok, (simply handbrushed the tubes yesterday).
(I can really recommend this paint... well lets se if it sticks first and dont flake of)

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I made a short ergonomic assement of the positioning of the anchor roller. Its not optimal but it will sure be a lot easier to hoist 100' of anchor line this way and I dont have to worry schratching the gunwale. :D

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The rail plates looks sharp against the black aka tubes too.

Well "no rest for the wicked" back to the workshop again!
Will re-mount the pulleys on the anchor trolley with the new steel plates and then FINALY get the transducer mounts fixed...
:mrgreen:
/Gustav

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 2:38 am 
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Just dodged the rain but got the pulleys mounted! :D

This was the right move...

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Now the pulleys are securely fitted, feels good to have it done right!

Raining hard outside nlw, no matter... I will be spending most of the afternoon inside the workshop anyway...
Welding... grinding... (cursing? :lol: ) and getting theese damned transducer mounts done.... :shock:
/Gustav

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 6:19 am 
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Husse0416 wrote:
Defy wrote:
What do you cut all this stuff with??? You need a waterjet or a cnc if you dont have one.


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Mmmm... (dreaming) ... it sure would be fantastic to have a good lathe, waterjet and a CNC-macine but I would not use it often enough and thoose things are just way to expensive (out of my league). [emoji3]

I am still planning for a 3D printer... that will be a great contribution the the workshop.



So i have had a lathe, cnc and i still have my 3D printer.

- Lathe i used alot for building my motorcycle but after that never really used it so i sold it.

- CNC - i had a Shapeoko 3 and it was awesome i used it all the time. I sold it right before we moved so i could buy the bigger newer one. But no space now so its on hold and i have projects stacked up for it. Look at the shapeoko they are beefy and around 1600 usd so to ship to you probably around 2k usd. Wicked awesome!

- 3D printer - i have a Printrbot Plus and love it. But really use it for trinkets fidget spinners and such. I have made a few handles for screen doors and such but nothing earth shattering.

- waterjet - only in my dreams i would love one!! Not till i retire and build my huge shop!

In short buy a cnc machine before a 3d printer. More practical uses.



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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 8:27 am 
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Defy wrote:
Husse0416 wrote:
Defy wrote:
What do you cut all this stuff with??? You need a waterjet or a cnc if you dont have one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Mmmm... (dreaming) ... it sure would be fantastic to have a good lathe, waterjet and a CNC-macine but I would not use it often enough and thoose things are just way to expensive (out of my league). [emoji3]

I am still planning for a 3D printer... that will be a great contribution the the workshop.



So i have had a lathe, cnc and i still have my 3D printer.

- Lathe i used alot for building my motorcycle but after that never really used it so i sold it.

- CNC - i had a Shapeoko 3 and it was awesome i used it all the time. I sold it right before we moved so i could buy the bigger newer one. But no space now so its on hold and i have projects stacked up for it. Look at the shapeoko they are beefy and around 1600 usd so to ship to you probably around 2k usd. Wicked awesome!

- 3D printer - i have a Printrbot Plus and love it. But really use it for trinkets fidget spinners and such. I have made a few handles for screen doors and such but nothing earth shattering.

- waterjet - only in my dreams i would love one!! Not till i retire and build my huge shop!

In short buy a cnc machine before a 3d printer. More practical uses.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the tip Mate! :)
$1600 for a good CNC sound interesting. I will surely check it out. It would save heck of a lot of time for sure!
:D

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 10:16 am 
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You have some tubing that looks like its probably stainless steel? You probably also did all that bending? Anyhow, what did you use to bend the tube? Im thinking about a project (not on the TI) where I would need to do somewhat similar bends with 1 inch OD stainless steel tubing.

Enjoying your thread..


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 1:40 pm 
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walt wrote:
You have some tubing that looks like its probably stainless steel? You probably also did all that bending? Anyhow, what did you use to bend the tube? Im thinking about a project (not on the TI) where I would need to do somewhat similar bends with 1 inch OD stainless steel tubing.

Enjoying your thread..


Hi Walt!
Sorry but I cant really give any good advice about how to bend tubes.
Tube bending is not an easy task and takes some special eqipment if you want a good result.
There are some gadgets for tube bending to buy but I doubt that the result will be worth the effort.
I like to do most of my stuff at home but I know how hard this is so I did not even try myself
I had my all my tubing bent (for $50 ) at a local company that specialises in hardware for industrial food processing.
My best advice is to ask around and see if you can find a workshop that can help you get this done for a small cost. I figure it wilm be worth the money.
My tubes in the riser and handlebars are made from 316L stainless (marine grade) , 25mm (1") diam and 1,2 mm thickness. Pretty light and yet fairly strong.
After a long consideration I decided to use stainless steel instead of aluminium. Aluminium is grate but hard to weld so adding brackets etc will be much easier do do with SS.
I will weld a loop on the riser to fasten the pulley for the main sheet and some other small stuff.

Hope this helped somewhat?
/Gustav

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 3:22 pm 
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Ok... here we go!!
Transducer mounts in the process...
(This post might be very booring... I apologize in advance) :shock:


So theese were my main claims when I was designing:
-The mounts have to fit anywhere all arount the rails on the kayak.
-The transducer must easily be adjustable in height and rotation/heading.
-The mounts must be made quickly foldable for easier launching/landings.
-A safety feature that flips up the transducer tube to avoid damage if it hits bottom is also important.

They are made from stainless steel, a bit on the heavy side (as most of my stuff) but they will be sturdy and not vibrate.

To make the safety function I will clamp 2 pcs of square tubes together with cable ties. The cable ties will brake if the transducer hits bottom bending it backwards.
To stop the two tubes from sliding and make the connection stronger I drilled 5mm holes and welded 2 bolts that are cut off very short. So the bolts just works as a positioning pins.

Image
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A 20mm axle will slide in the lower square tube and is welded togeteher with the sheath for the transducer tube. A long 6mm bolt holds the axle togheter.
I added a half plate disc that will be drilled with holes ( 0,45,90 dgr) for a spring loaded sprint to enable the tube/sheath to easily fold and be locked into the right position.

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On the sheath I will drill a 8mm hole and weld on a nut to fasten the transducer tube.

A sturdy 6 mm steel plate will hold the mount in place in the railsystem with 2pcs 5mm bolts.

Image

So as you see I am about half way thru the build. Some more holes to be drilled, some more welding and some polishing.
Then finaly I have to attach the transducers to the end of the tubes.

More to come ... but tomorrow I am away fishing!!
/Gustav

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 6:20 am 
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Aren't you concerned about the total weight you'll be adding to a boat that is rated for only 600 lbs (272 kg)? Wouldn't aluminium be a better choice rather than stainless steel given all the modifications you are adding plus the weight of the 5 HP motor and bank of batteries?

Given that the typical weight of two adults takes up about half the weight capacity, not to mention gear, once you add the combined weight of all the many modifications you must be getting close to the rated capacity.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 7:25 am 
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pro10is wrote:
Aren't you concerned about the total weight you'll be adding to a boat that is rated for only 600 lbs (272 kg)? Wouldn't aluminium be a better choice rather than stainless steel given all the modifications you are adding plus the weight of the 5 HP motor and bank of batteries?

Given that the typical weight of two adults takes up about half the weight capacity, not to mention gear, once you add the combined weight of all the many modifications you must be getting close to the rated capacity.

Image


No not extremely concerned really... but I am well aware of the weight issue. Read the entire thread and you will find I have taken the weight issue under consideration many times when planning and executing the build. :roll:

Aluminium welding is a pain i.t.b. if you dont have the skills and equipment.... sadly I dont. :shock:
Otherwise for sure, I agree, saving weight is allways a good thing. Maybe in the future I will learn how to weld alu and upgrade some of the stuff.
As for the riserbar/handles the weight/strenght ratio do not make it worth the effort to change to aluminium.

But all little things ad up... but not very much..... I made a quick calculation and if I could redo parts of the mods in alu instead of SS I can save about 10kgs, but thats about it.

The the 4-stroke/w.mount, electric motor/w.mount, batteries, spline boards, aluminium rails, all togheter totals about 115 kgs and that is the main part of the added weight. No way to change this really unless I simply choose to remove stuff. Fortunately the weight is well distributed along the hull not excessively stressing the TI at any single point. But sure I guess this is a pretty extreme build. Its not for everyone and time will tell what works well and what didn't (or what made it sink :lol: ).
My friends are allready bugging me and they are doing just fine without help! LOL!
They have proposed naming my kayak Forrestal, Nimmitz or even Titanic! LOL!

The rated capacity of the 2017 TI is probably also a bit underrated. The rating has been the same from the start and dit not change even after Hobie upgraded the hull (2015?) with better boyancy. I guess to get a new maritime aproval is a costly and complicated matter so they (Honbie) wisely did not see the point in doing so.

I have just been out with the TI and today added 25kgs (50lbs) ballast under the front hatch. No big difference really. It handles very well. Next time out I will load 50kgs (100lbs is aprox. the weight of battries + electric motor) in the front making the total load myself included about 250kgs(500lbs). So when sailing solo (as I do 95% of the time) I am still well within the max weight limit.

The weight of the mods that are permenantly mounted on the TI and cant be removed is about 6kgs. So I can still choose to take the TI out just for sailing if I would like to. :)
The modular setup has been the main idea with the project and also makes it easier to upgrade stuff in the future with alu or who knows.... carbon is very nice to!!
:mrgreen:

All the best!
/Gustav

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Last edited by Husse0416 on Sun Sep 24, 2017 1:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 9:53 am 
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Thanks for response on bending pipe (or is that tube?). Yep.. Im seeing that its somewhat complicated doing it yourself. Google brings up all sort of stuff on that which I will have to study... Finding someone to do the bends is also looking like a really good idea.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 1:29 pm 
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Back from todays fishing trip, a great day out with winds around 10 knots and some gust up to 18 knots, exiting!!
I must say the TI is a great little sailing craft. Maybe it cant really be compared with a real sailboat but its simply so much fun.
:D
With the 5hp 4-stroke mounted + full 3 gallon tank of gas, spline boards, (and the regular fishing gear, anchors etc) I also added a 25 kg bag of cement under the front hatch. It sure can handle the extra weight no problems at all.
:D
I was a bit concerned about sailing with the wind hard from starboard side as the motor is placed on the port side. It was leaning a bit more but the amas still had no problems handling this. Sitting out on the haka benches was fun but I have to get a tiller extension for the rudder.
With the extra 50lbs in the front I lost a about a knot in speed using the outboard. The TI still makes 9 knots but now on 3/4 trottle and about 7-8 knots on half trottle so I am still very happy with this.
It still rides very well over the entire speedrange but a little more water is being pushed up thru the front MD well at speeds over 7 knots as the bow rides a little deeper. I got to make a very well sealed MD-plug with scupper valves.
A good and probably very economical cruising speed is to run on 1/4 trottle with speeds around 5 knots when going on longer runs if there is no haste (or wind if course).

By accident I forgot to put the mirage drive in the forward position and ran with the outboard. Took a few second to realise why I suddely lost so much speed. Thankfully there dont seem to be any damage to the drive or the drive well. The stress must been very big from the water drag pressing on the fins with the motor on full trottle. Was only getting about 7 knots. Of course I stopped emedialtely when I realised the problem, checked the drive, phew hairy moment!! All was ok.
One positive result of this misshap is that I noticed that I can troll 1/2-1 knots with the outboard on idle speed if I reverse the MD using it as a water brake! :D (With the MD in forward position the speed is about 2 knots on idle and that is a bit to fast for zander trolling)
(Dont worry I will still use the pedals more then the outboard when trolling but its good fun to test the new gear!)
:mrgreen:

I also tested the anchor trolley and the anchor roller today. :roll:
The anchor trolley works much better then I thought. The trolley line stays in place just fine. I am still a bit concerned about the quality of the plastic YakAttack D-ring. :shock: I will try to get a copy with the same design/dimensions fabricated in stainless steel instead. CNC-machined or cut with a water jet, that would do the job and look muck better then what I can make. :?
The anchor roller will be very useful but I must add a pin to push down the anchor line so it goes thru the clam-cleat.
And my new diving-reel is just awsome! :P It was a weird feeling to abandon an expensive piece of gear floating in the surface and just drift away. :shock: I went back to the anchor point after an hour and hooked up again. All was good! :D

So a great day and even cought a few fish... cant ask for more!!
:mrgreen:
Sail safe!
/Gustav

PS.
I will upload some videos from the day but the video format from my action cam (SJCam SJ6 Legend) shooting 1080 60 fps is giving me some problems. For some reason this wont upload to YouTube so I guess I have to convert the files first? :?:

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