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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 6:07 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2015 9:58 pm
Posts: 218
Location: SF Bay
robfromnj wrote:
OK so I see everyone has been having problems with the AKA part but what about the spring hook inside the brace? I can not seem to figure out how to remove them. Any tips?

Thanks
Rob


Possible options:

1. Pull it out with long needle nose pliers.
2. Push it from the opposite side with a long rod.
3. Loop a piece of line over the top, retrieve the line around the bottom and pull it out.

WD 40 helps. Also helps to work it out as much as possible first with a small screw driver through the button holes.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 5:40 pm 
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Location: Georgia
cooldudecaptain wrote:
bought an inexpensive (cheap) extended long nose "angled" needle nose pliers at Harbor Freight..........
sprayed the inside of the cross brace with WD-40..............
you can reach in with 'long' needle nose pliers, compress the spring hook and with a little twisting action they slide right out.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 4:39 am 
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Location: Cherry Hill, NJ
ok great. I was thinking along the lines of long needle nose pliers- I don't own a pair and wanted to see what others are using before I made the purchase.
I know they sell the fishing long needle nose pliers for toothy critters like pike and musky- maybe I will grab one of those and have a win win situation.

Thanks again!

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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 8:32 am 
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Location: Orlando!
This might help with stuck screws:

https://www.harborfreight.com/spring-lo ... h-621.html

I have to deal with frozen fasteners a lot and often this is a game changer.
It is recommended to hose the screws with some penetrating solvent at least 24 hours before attempting to remove. Before removal, a couple strikes from different angles with this little tile glaze breaker will work wonders on small, frozen fasteners. It’s spring loaded so all you do is place the tip on the screw and depress the punch until it trips, sending a nice little focused jolt which most often is enough to break it loose from its corroded bond.


Image


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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2018 5:14 am 
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Location: Cherry Hill, NJ
I did my aka upgrade yesterday. I used extra long needle nose plies to remove and installed the new Hinged Spring Hook without much fanfare. Then I set my sights on the dreaded Lock Bearing. I saw that others used to heat to remove the screws. In expectation of resistance, I put the heat gun on the ground and shot into each aka Lock Bearing. I only had the heat on for a few seconds when I tried the first screw. First screw felt like it was 2 turns too loose, went on to the next screw and same result. I ended up following this procedure throughout the 4 Lock Bearings just to make sure I did not have any trouble.
I wonder if heat was even needed in my case-

For the record, my AI is a 2017.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 2:30 pm 
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Location: Orlando!
Pescatoral Pursuit wrote:
This might help with stuck screws:

https://www.harborfreight.com/spring-lo ... h-621.html

I have to deal with frozen fasteners a lot and often this is a game changer.
It is recommended to hose the screws with some penetrating solvent at least 24 hours before attempting to remove. Before removal, a couple strikes from different angles with this little tile glaze breaker will work wonders on small, frozen fasteners. It’s spring loaded so all you do is place the tip on the screw and depress the punch until it trips, sending a nice little focused jolt which most often is enough to break it loose from its corroded bond.


Image


Finally got my parts and installed them yesterday. The little spring-loaded center punch worked swimmingly, much better than expected. So much so that I became very complacent on the last joint and wasn't snapping them as smartly as I know you are supposed to and well you guessed it- broke a screw. A quick run to Lowes 10 minutes before they closed, a 6-32 tap and screw and was able to complete in one sitting. If it were not for my own utter carelessness, this would've been a casual 30 minute job.

Get the punch. Strike each screw smartly at least three times right in the center of the Phillips cross and you'll be golden. No need for solvents though you can't be too careful. A short Phillips screw driver, long flathead, and angled pick rounded out the necessary tools.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

This guy made an unexpected visit as I was finishing up to inspect my work I suppose.

Image

Hope this helps someone.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 9:36 pm 
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Posts: 228
Location: Hervey Bay Qld Australia ( formally UK)
Hi guys even with heat three screw heads snapped, any recommendations on what do next? Tbh if i was closer to my Hobie dealer insted of 4 hours drive away i would take them problem to them..

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 10:17 pm 
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Location: Hervey Bay Qld Australia ( formally UK)
scc wrote:
mmiller wrote:
I'll work on that. As far as I know... we do not have castings alone.


As several have encountered the issue of screws breaking inside the casting, it would nice if Hobie made recommendations for screw removal in the upgrade instructions or require that it be a dealer repair only. I've gone from a simple warranty upgrade to now needing two castings (if available) or a complete aka assembly.


Hi scc how did you get on with replacement aluminium castings? I'm in the same position. Unless i can figure a way of getting the three sheared screws out :(

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2018 4:07 am 
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Location: Hervey Bay Qld Australia ( formally UK)
Just had a go at drilling out the screws on the bench drill, no go even with a centre punch the drill bit skids off the tiny screw which is now raised due to head shearing...

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 1:28 pm 
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Location: Delnor Wiggins, Fl Peters Twp PA
Well, I am about to the "I give Up" stage with drilling the broken screw shanks out. I've got 15 hrs into it with no luck. I borrowed a drill press from a friend, and some of the shafts could be drilled out, but there are still one or two that just caused the bit to skate. Crooked hole drilled finally coming out the side. Looks like construction adhesive will be my partial solution unless Hobie has taken to selling the offending parts..

I'll still have to find my hull leak, too..I think it's in the rear peddle trunk area based on incidence of water incursion, but my solution is to put the center hull in my pool, remove the fins from the rear masts and then stress the hull by paddling...


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2019 9:21 am 
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I have a similar problem.
Matt told me that Hobie do not sell the casting as a spare part.

I recovered 50% of the screws, the rest I drilled through and installed SS split pins - not perfect but very solid.
As a backup I have looped and tied thin dyneema cord through the outer casting hinge and back inboard to the back of the cross brace bracket. This can be easily removed for extended transits.

The replacement plastic anchors in the kit are identical to those installed on my 2015 TI. This really pleased me having trashed them...
The difference is small, as Matt states, but if you look carefully at the Hobie instruction sheets you can spot the difference between new and original.


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