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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 8:29 am 
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You have a problem, what are the solutions?

This is the thread for "serial modifiers." Please, only post a problem if you have a solution (modification).

1. Water on the car windshield
    a. Remove the windshield—preferred by auto manufacturers
    b. Park the car in the garage—preferred by retirees
    c. Install a windshield wiper—preferred by daily users and safety experts

2. Side handles on Islands direct water into the seat area
    a. Redesign the handles—preferred by most (all?) users
    b. Remove the handles—Hobie’s solution as of 2015 (no, no, please don’t…. Darn! They did.)

3. Front hatch leaks
    a. Permanently seal the front hatch—may be Hobie’s dream solution, but hated by users
    b. Tighten front hatch bungee cords—if it works for you, go for it.
    c. Use Kal-D-Pal or Chekika’s Roids solution

4. Furling line cam cleat is poorly located on the AI 2 and Tandem
    a. Dispense with the furling cam cleat—not suggested by anyone…yet
    b. On the AI 2, move the furling cam cleat (perhaps route the furling line along the port coaming to a cam cleat located on the gunwales near the pilot.)
    c. On the Tandem,
      i. If the front main sheet cleat is unused, because you sail from the rear with 3:1 leverage, use the front main sheet cam cleat
      ii. Move the furling cam cleat—Walt, Kayakman7, and others have done this, locating the cleat on the gunwales nearer the rear-seat pilot.

5. Main sheet cam cleat does not work properly on the AI 2 and, for some, the Tandem
    a. Dispense with the cam cleat; install open cleat (horn cleat)—TomKirkman’s solution
    b. Relocate the turning cheek block forward—Yakass’ solution, Hobie’s solution on 2016 AI 2
    Image

    c. Relocate the cam cleat along the gunwales nearer the pilot. Do not move the turning cheek block—Walt & Chekika’s solution

6. More?

Keith

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2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 3:27 am 
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Location: Pula - Sardinia
6. Sail doesn't open enough in downwind wasting some potential power
a) install a barber hauler in the aka - simpler but u have to uncleat and recleat when tacking or gybing (my favourite)
b) fix a flexiboom to the mast
c) create a new lines (different solutions) with blocks and cleats. the solutions b and c doesnt require actions when tacking or gybing but make your boat more complicate


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 6:21 am 
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
Problem Mod 7: TI in low winds (under 6mph) is very slow (2-3 mph (mostly via pedal power))
A: Don't bother going out (most owners solution).
B: possible solution, hire an olympic athlete to pedal you around.
C: Possible solution, add a big jib and giant spinnaker
D: Possible solution, get a different boat. (Not my preference I like my TI)
E: Possible solution, design yourself some wing sail tech and hybrid propulsion systems so you can create your own wind and cruise 8-10 mph regardless of wind direction and speed (don't need any natural wind at all actually since you are making your own wind). (Obviously in zero winds you gotta get used to sailing in gentle curved routes so you can flow air over your wing).

Down sides to solution E:
1: You will find yourself alone out on the water (no other sailboats out there at all) thru most of the summer (10 months).
2: You become a laughing stock and the brunt of many jokes.
3: you tend to not want to deal with high winds and rough seas anymore, and tend to stay home in those conditions.

Upsides to solution E:
1: you stay dry
2: you no longer get blown out to sea fighting offshore winds and fierce 5-6 mph currents, or at sunset when the wind dies completely you don't have to peddle 10 miles to get home.
3: when you have to travel 15 miles in 92 degree heat, intense sun, and no breeze It's much more pleasant to have a 10-15mph breeze and occasional splash on your face verse still air. And you get your 15 miles done in an hr or two verses 8-10 hrs in the sun and heat.
4: as scuba divers when the wind and waves kick up underwater visibility goes way down, so you can't dive. (Diving and snorkeling is our favorite pastime, this makes diving from sailboats a kind of oxymoron)


Last edited by fusioneng on Thu Dec 17, 2015 11:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 7:57 am 
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Location: Colorado
This mod deviated a fair amount from the status quo..

There have been plenty of discussion about capsizing if you pop a sheer pin (for whatever reason). The conventional way to deal with this are lines from the ama to the hull that prevent the ama from folding backwards if the sheer pin breaks. I tried something a little different and have been using it for a while now. Why I like it, what it does well

* Its been tested and works. We had a sheer pin break from an impact sailing in fairly good winds and the leash prevented a capsize even though the broken pin was on the down wind side.
* it will prevent the ama from folding in BOTH forward or backwards
* you cant lose the brace even if the plastic keeper breaks
* if you do pop a sheer pin, the leash "mostly" holds everything in place making replacing the sheer pin out on the water fairly simple (also tested)
* it is super easy to use. The leash stays with the brace all the time. To deploy the leash, it is as simple as clipping it on. No other setup at all. The controls to fold an ama on the TI are most accessible from the rear seat and the clip is very easy to get to as its at the knob. Makes it easy to collapse an ama for coming into a dock.

This was the thread.. viewtopic.php?f=69&t=54811&start=0

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 11:01 am 
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Location: South Florida
I think we are off to a good start, however, PLEASE CONSECUTIVELY NUMBER YOUR PROBLEM/MODIFICATION.
Sardinian Islander numbered his 6 Problem/mod 6. Therefore,

Fusioneng Problem/mod 7

Walt Problem/mod 8

That way, comments can be directed at a particular Problem/mod. Remember this thread is aimed at the "serial modifier" or SB wannabe. Hopefully, everyone will put 1 or more problem/mods up here, or at least comment on others.

Thanks, (rules, rules, rules, mumble, grumble....)

Keith

_________________
2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein


Last edited by Chekika on Thu Dec 17, 2015 12:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 12:00 pm 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
fusioneng wrote:
SNIP
E: Possible solution, design yourself some wing sail tech and hybrid propulsion systems so you can create your own wind and cruise 8-10 mph regardless of wind direction and speed (don't need any natural wind at all actually since you are making your own wind). (Obviously in zero winds you gotta get used to sailing in gentle curved routes so you can flow air over your wing).
SNIP

Bob, your above statement is contradictory....
If there is zero wind, the laws of physcs prevent your >apparent< wind reaching you at any other agle that dead ahead. This will continue to be the case even if you steer "gentle curved routes".

The only sailboat I have ever seen which really can sail directly into the wind had a giant (wind turbine like) propeller which turned a smaller one under the boat, but that didn't work if there was zero wind.

Where am I going wrong in my thinking?

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker!


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 12:12 pm 
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Tony, your thinking may be "wrong" because you're not taking into account that FB has 2 Honda 4-stroke engines mounted on his boat. FB seldom mentions that in his discussions.

Keith

_________________
2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 12:45 pm 
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Keith, I did take them into consideration. Even with them both running flat out, in zero true wind conditions, the only apparent wind they can generate is from dead ahead.

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker!


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 1:39 pm 
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
Tony:
Reference mod 7...
Very seldom do we get zero wind it might be 2-3 mph on a really calm day. (Might as well call it zero because your sails do nothing). My motors running at very low throttle and me peddling creates my forward motion (around 6-7 mph). I only need to create a very slight bias to the wind to either the left or right to make my wing conform to it's assymetric form, (It's kind if like using your rudder on an airplane to crab). Once in it's assymetric shape whatever airflow I get over the wing creates lift. An added benefit is the wing throws accelerated and aligned air over the back side of the main sail kind of forcing the mainsail to work where it normally would just be luffing. By keeping slight pressure bias to one side or the other by driving on a gentle curved course (using the centerboard/rudder to create the slight angle to the boat in relation to the wind) my boat accelerates to around 8mph (my cruise speed). Of course If I have a little natural wind that I can redirect and amplify into apparent wind my efficiency, speed, and fuel economy goes way up.
What is really odd about my configuration is when I'm going downwind I am always going faster than the actual wind so my sail configuration doesn't change much downwind (main and wing are still pulled very tight). There is no need to tack upwind my best point of sail is almost straight upwind, but on downwind I have to tack excessively trying like crazy to redirect what little wind I have over my wing. What I have is not really a sailboat at all, I'm just using physics tricks to help propel my pedalboat. The absolute worst point of sail on my boat is a reach so I try to avoid having the wind broadside to me ( I'm just regular sailing at that point of sail (no fancy physics lol).
I'm working like crazy to get my fuel efficiency up over 150mpg, I'm in the process of upgrading my mirage drives to glide drives, and will take another run at it when ready. I'm really close. Honestly I just like jacking around with it, I'll get there someday (150mpg, averaging 8-10 mph), realistically it will take another 5yrs of R&D to get to my goal (just bein honest), I can't get much more than 100 mpg currently.
FE


Last edited by fusioneng on Fri Dec 18, 2015 6:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 12:09 pm 
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Mod 9

Needed 2nd bungee cord on each of the aka/ama connections of my 2014 TI. Adding a 2nd bungee was simple. Screw a couple SS eye bolts into the ama, tie on the new bungee cord. I used aluminum grip rivets for the new bungee button fitting on the aka. Here is the result:

Image

8 SS eye bolts, Bolt Depot, https://www.boltdepot.com/Screw_eyes_Stainless_steel.aspx I used product #15512. Shipping was $5.95.
Aluminum rivets, Amazon, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VTUC0LW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A2X3HYNZ7OGE5D
Bungee button, ACK, http://www.austinkayak.com/products/266/Bungee-Button-Each.html?k=bungee.

I used 1/4" bungee and a "Figure 8" knot. Great knot.

I put a 2nd bungee on the amas of my 2011 AI. They worked, but, boy, they were ugly as sin! I would never post a picture of them.

Keith

_________________
2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein


Last edited by Chekika on Wed Jan 06, 2016 4:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 1:34 pm 
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Location: Pula - Sardinia
Chekika i also have a 2011 AI with only one bungee at the ama. I was tempted to add a second bungee but I resigned thinking that I cannot do it without drilling anything.
I could avoid to drill the ama as you did just buyng the hobie replacement with 2 bungees but in my aka only one of them has a second pin. the other has only 1 pin (why??) so i should drill the aka in order to add a second bungee.
I wonder how many cases we know of broken ama bugee in order to know if it's worth to make this modification.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 3:15 pm 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
SI,
The AIv1 does not usually have a problem with the ama 'galloping' off the aka like the TI did. The ama being much smaller than the TI's were held in place by the bungee well enough. If you check the condition of the bungee regularly and replace it when needed then the AIv1 doesn't really need the double bungee set up.
Of course if you want to add a bit of safety then the double bungee system can be easily retrofitted. Either add an extra bungee retainer (easily rivetted on) or use something like a hook/shackle etc to clip both bungees to the one retainer like Tony has done here
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=56447&p=266584
(edit, just realised you are aware already aware of this post)


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 5:03 pm 
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Sardinian Islander wrote:
Chekika i also have a 2011 AI with only one bungee at the ama. I was tempted to add a second bungee but I resigned thinking that I cannot do it without drilling anything.
I could avoid to drill the ama as you did just buyng the hobie replacement with 2 bungees but in my aka only one of them has a second pin. the other has only 1 pin (why??) so i should drill the aka in order to add a second bungee.
I wonder how many cases we know of broken ama bugee in order to know if it's worth to make this modification.

SI, as I said, I added a 2nd bungee to each position of my 2011 AI. My amas on that boat were quite noisy when they rattled around in rough seas. I don't remember how I did it other than it was quite ugly as I said above. As Stringy says it is no big deal to drill the aka for a 2nd bungee button--Hobie already has a second button on the rear aka of all boats I believe. Use the aluminum rivets to fasten the button to the aka. Just put a 2nd one in the same place in the front akas. That is what Hobie has done on the AI 2.

Regarding the attachment of a 2nd bungee to the ama, on the AI 2, Hobie has simply drilled out the hole in the screw-in fitting. They enlarged it to about 3/8" and fit two ¼" bungees through that hole, knotting them on the inside. I went with the system I showed above because it is totally redundant--2 independent bungee cords at each aka/ama connection. They keep the amas from rattling around in rough waters, and it is unlikely they will break.

Keith

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2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 6:23 pm 
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So Keith, are those eye bolts just screwed into the plastic of the ama? I'm guessing so, can't imagine how you'd get anything inside for a backer... How thick is the plastic there?

I've learned a lot about just how strong plastic can be with my Hobies but I wouldn't have thought the top of the ama would be thick / strong enough to do that...!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 7:13 pm 
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Yes, screwed in. I would say that thickness of the HDPE is 1/8 to 3/16" in that area. It seems pretty solid. The bolts are 1/4" so they are taking a pretty good bite. The main load of these double bungees is being carried by the original 5/16" bungee because it is shorter. Only when it begins to stretch does my new 1/4" bungee take effect. That is just the way I tied them. You could make them more equal if you wanted.

Hobie has both a handle and a padeye in the middle of each ama. The handle is attached to 2 short bolts screwed into a couple brass fittings embedded in the ama. Not sure what the padeye screws are going into.

Frankly, I thought my new bungees were a little sloppy, but a friend and long-time Tandem sailor thought they were fine. One feature of the new bungees is keep the ama from dropping down on my foot accidentally when I work to release the tight original bungees and put the akas/ama back along the hull on the cradles. There is enough tension in the new bungees to keep the ama up on the aka while shifting the akas/ama around. When the amas are stored on the cradles, I release the new bungees also.

Keith

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2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein


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