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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 4:47 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
Posts: 2983
Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
A stonger bow would be a nice thing (the entire front), my spinnaker is on a rotofurler, and once in a while it gets tangled up in high winds. I have to then walk out on my bowsprit to get it untangled. I also always pick the boat up by the bowsprit. The strain from all the big sails is massive (I have up to 260sqft of sail area). I had to add aluminum bracing to the front end to support everything. My opinion is if the entire bow had been just a little stronger all the extra bracing wouldn't have been necessary.
I feel the front hatch design could have been better with a cork in a bottle type seal.
If you don't believe me just have someone sit in the boat, then lift the bow, a 1/4" gap opens up in the middle of the bow hatch and water just pours into the hatch. If you stare at the tip of the bow in rough seas, you can watch it flex up/down, and right/left several inches, allowing water to pour into the boat thru the frnt hatch.
I'm not complaining, I'm just sayin it could have been designed better initially, (maybe an extra ridge line designed into the top).
FE


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 4:12 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2012 8:29 am
Posts: 38
1) Hobie haka benches with a hook to hold main sheet away from aft crew's head
2) Bigger center board - It's okay that the rear 180 drive blocks the storage hole, I'll take it to point upwind higher
3) Something to prevent the akas and main hull scratches when on trailer in the Hobie Cradles
4) Thicker spinnaker halyard, the blue line is hard to grab when wet and hold
5) A hook or paddle attachment to operate centerboard from aft seat

Either way, I am sure that Hobie will keep improving the TI, the newer seats were an awesome update, along with the spinnaker kit!

-Ted


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 7:31 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 01, 2006 1:16 pm
Posts: 566
Location: Colorado
Bring the furling line to the port side rather than the starboard side. The main reason is that the control line coming off the furler drum exits from the front with the stock implementation and can fall out and down and jam. But if the furling line goes to the port side, it exits the drum from the rear and it cant fall down as there is structure there that prevents that. The TI comes better set up to single hand from the front but many single hand from the rear. Improve the ability to reef from the rear seat on stock boats - at least put the "hooks" in for this.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 2:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2014 5:37 pm
Posts: 46
1. Fix the leaks. Twice now I have been in my boat along with about 10-15 gallons of water.
2. Furling cleats for the rear seat.
3. A Jib. I love my spinnaker!
4. (From my wife) Bright beautiful sails! My wife always want a sail like the 14's, 16's, Getaway... You get the idea. Maybe a better option is to use that to get another boat!


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 4:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 8:45 pm
Posts: 341
Location: Melbourne, Australia
1: LIGHTER - needs to shed at least 20kgs...
2: More flared bow (like a sea kayak) so less diving and can travel over waves a bit better. (same deal with the amas - more flared, so they can 'plane' a bit)
3: Move the mainsheet and furling-line cleats to the right, so they don't foul on the pedals!
4: Side carry-handles please.
5: adjust the position on the handles on the amas so they balance better (I know that the roto-moulding process can affect balance)
6: Maybe a flat deck-area around the mirage-drive and centre hatch, so it's easier to stand up.
7: Did I say LIGHTER? :-)

Mike.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 1:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2015 9:59 am
Posts: 98
Why do we make all these "wants" ?
Is Hobie going to make any changes to the 2018 model? Curious.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 4:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2014 10:40 am
Posts: 927
Location: Blacklick, Ohio
They do a good job of listening to their current customers. Think of us all as beta testers. Some of these ideas have already been successfully implemented by forum members and we are just looking for hobie to adopt them as standard options instead of homegrown.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 4:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2015 9:59 am
Posts: 98
Well then here are my wish.
- Reduce weight
- Motor mount ready
- Side handle

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 1:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2017 6:31 pm
Posts: 121
Skills, my only wish.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 2:59 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:14 pm
Posts: 3302
Location: South Florida
mingle wrote:
1: LIGHTER - needs to shed at least 20kgs... May not be possible with current roto molded materials.
2: More flared bow (like a sea kayak) so less diving and can travel over waves a bit better. (same deal with the amas - more flared, so they can 'plane' a bit) Years ago when I suggested remodeling the hull for less diving (https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=7276&start=90&_ga=1.182563360.76725260.1489714288) I caught some flack for the suggestion.
3: Move the mainsheet and furling-line cleats to the right, so they don't foul on the pedals! This seems easy to do.
4: Side carry-handles please. Yes, bring back the side handles, please.
5: adjust the position on the handles on the amas so they balance better (I know that the roto-moulding process can affect balance)
6: Maybe a flat deck-area around the mirage-drive and centre hatch, so it's easier to stand up. Yes this would be nice.
7: Did I say LIGHTER? :-) See #1

Mike.

I think Mike has a lot of good points.

Keith

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 4:44 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 8:24 pm
Posts: 760
Location: Houston, TX
My vote...

Bow sprit
Motor mount
Hull that planes

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2016 AI - Spinn & Jib

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2017 6:59 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
Posts: 2983
Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
My wish list is injection molded 2 piece hull and AMA's (lighter, way more accurate, and much stronger), and a hull could be made in 5minutes vs 2hrs (bringing the cost way down).
FE

Vetgam
Yes the planing hull thing is possible (here's mine), yes the boat is actually planing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1OjgyqBsXk


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 7:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2015 7:03 am
Posts: 17
Others have mentioned improving the pointing ability. I fully agree, that is the main performance issue I have with mine.

I am surprised no one else has mentioned the difficulty in un-cleating the mainsheet. I've seen a lot of mods on this forum that address this issue -- moving the cleat closer to the seat, moving the block fore of the cleat, changing to a horn cleat, etc. Maybe they fixed it in 2017 and I missed it?

Hakas would be great, too.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2017 6:20 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 2:00 pm
Posts: 28
A couple of very simple additions I have done myself, based on suggestions from this forum:
1. on the front aka brace, move the outboard cam cleat inboard to line up with the mast (aka is already pre drilled), then substitute a cheek block for the outboard cam cleat (requires drilling and tapping two new holes). So the front Xbar has two cam cleats and one cheek block;
2. add a new cam cleat to the rear aka, inboard of the current one (requires drilling and tapping two new holes). So the rear xbar has two cam cleats;.

Overall, the net difference is adding one cheek block and one cam cleat (plus a couple of fairleads to smooth the passage of the lines) and drilling two sets of holes.

What do you get? If you are sailing solo in the rear seat, you feed the furling line through the new front Xbar outboard cheek block and cleat it in the cam cleat outboard on the rear ama (the one that was originally used for the main sheet). You move the rear main sheet to the new inboard cam cleat on the rear aka. You don't use the new inboard cam cleat on the front Xbar.

If you are sailing solo in the front seat, you feed the furling line through the new front Xbar inboard cam cleat and use the front main sheet as originally set up. If you are sailing with two people and want the front person to control the furling line while you control the main sheet (probably a bad idea), you also feed the furling line through the new front Xbar inboard cam cleat and use the rear main sheet in the original outboard cam cleat.

You get the idea - it gives you a lot of flexibility. Let me figure out how to post pictures if anyone is interested and I will do so.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2017 7:32 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 28, 2012 6:11 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Vancouver & Shaw Island, WA
Jhawkman-

Pictures are always helpful...thanks!

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2013 Tandem Island "Frenzy"


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