What size tap for reefing cleat screw

I going to add or move reefing cleat to port side of crossbar because mirage drive is in the way of line. What size tap is used to create thread in plastic 2011 crossbar. Thanks.

If you are drilling your own holes, any size you want... I think it's a size 8-32 1.25" long. definitely remove an existing screw and match the size and length. You will also need the shim that fits under the cam cleat, or the screws will interfere with removing the akas. Don't forget to apply lock tight.

J

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2011 Golden Papaya TI with a 250 square foot spinnaker!
also a more manageable 100 square foot spinny...
&
the TI3 rear ama mod

ok, let me rephrase. What size hole and tap does hobie drill to install the compression cleats.

I'm not sure exactly what you are referring to as the "plastic 2011 crossbar".

If you are referring to the aluminum aka, the screws are as kayakman7 stated, 8-32 X 1.25". Hobie part #8031481 Screw 8/32 x 1 1/4 PHMS-P (actually that's off of my Austin Kayak invoice for them).

As far as the tap, I used an 8-32 tap and the matching drill bit for that size that came in my tap kit.

I didn't get them all at one location so don't have all the part numbers handy, but there are three pieces I think in all for the cleat...the cleat itself, a spacer underneath of it and a fairlead. You can look at a parts diagram on the Hobie site and see the part numbers.

MY TI came with holes already drilled and tapped on the port side, I only had to drill because I put a cleat on the rear aka so I can furl from the back seat.

I did that to my '11 AI, just moved the furling cam cleat to the port side. Drilled and tapped holes and re-used the original hardware. I find it easier to control the lines this way and use the 'up rudder' cleat to secure furling line.

_________________
Bob
Proud member Kayak Fishing Association of New York

thanks Herbaldew. I'll start with an 8-32 tap and see if it matches the existing holes on the starboard. The crossbar receptical (to which the aka attaches on the boat) on the '11 and '12 AI is not metal any longer. it's hard plastic.

Oops, sorry X 2. I figured if mine were aluminum that they all were. I also always considered my crossbars as part of the akas but I see the parts diagram clearly labels them as "XBars"

I wasn't trying to be condescending, just helpful by making sure we were talking about the same thing

FYI I recall after drilling and tapping the first hole thinking the screw felt rather sloppy in the hole. I put a screw in one of the pre drilled/tapped holes I mentioned and it felt sloppy there too - despite this they are holding just fine.

Checking the hole size with a tap isn't a good idea as you have a high chance of opening that existing hole up, decreasing the tolerences of the joint. In steel it wouldn't matter but in a soft material like plastic or aluminum you can lower the holding power of the threads severly. Instead, remove a screw and compare that to the tap or buy a 8-32 nut, compare the nut to the screw, then compare the nut to the tap, and find that the nut is a poor fit to the tap. This is normal. Lol...

If the threads compare and the diameter looks the same it should work just fine. If you have the drill size, it may be better to drill a hole that is a1/64th smaller than is called for by the tap to drill chart.

Cheers,

J

_________________
2011 Golden Papaya TI with a 250 square foot spinnaker!
also a more manageable 100 square foot spinny...
&
the TI3 rear ama mod

I stand corrected..the crossbar is aluminum. (fooled me)
8-32 is the correct tap. thanks guys. job completed successfully.