Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2009 5:51 am Posts: 229 Location: Hervey Bay Qld Australia ( formally UK)
Most of my rivets are also loose. It appears no glue or epoxy either. Thinking of drilling straight through and bolting with a 316 stainless bolt with nylon nut. Thoughts please
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Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2009 5:51 am Posts: 229 Location: Hervey Bay Qld Australia ( formally UK)
Rang my dealer today, he doesn't think spinning loose rivets are an issue. I think it will be an issue "if" my connector separates. They don't carry the repair kit either. Suggestions or your thoughts please.
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Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2015 9:58 pm Posts: 219 Location: SF Bay
mmiller wrote:
5200 was a good choice. Tough as nails. Aluminum rivets are not very strong in shear, so keep and eye on any movement.
I hear you. I'm hoping the adhesive prevents shearing and the aluminum will be less prone to electrolysis. However, I understand the rivet mandrels may be SS. I'll be watching it closely.
Joined: Wed May 20, 2015 6:22 pm Posts: 23 Location: Brooklin, Maine
mmiller wrote:
5200 was a good choice. Tough as nails. Aluminum rivets are not very strong in shear, so keep and eye on any movement.
Matt, I know that this thread is a year old, however I just replaced the rivets and 5200'ed the knuckle joints on my 2015 TI. The akas were actually "glued" by Hobie Corporate, however the glue used by the factory "cracked" under stress and was insufficient for the task. I re-riveted the knuckles all around and used all aluminum marine rivets, some 3/16" some 1/4" depending on if I had to redrill the hole.
They have cured now for 7 days (for the 3M 5200) and I will be taking "Supernova" out to sea trials as soon as I re-rivet the downhaul that rusted out on my sail. Luckily I have a sailmaker 200 yards from my house who is letting me use his shop for the sail repair.
I made an amateurish video of the repair and what I did an posted it up on my youtube channel. You can find it here:
Of note, there was a pretty good bit of galvanic/bimetal corrosion going on in the knuckle area. That was my motivation for going with the all aluminum rivets. With the 5200, I will expect that the akas will never fail in the knuckle rivet area again. Time will tell.
Recommendation for Hobie: take a little more time in the gluing process when assembling the akas, the glue **might** have held if there was a little more in the joint space between the arm and the knuckle. Or just 5200 it and call it good for good. That alien technology stuff will never come apart, the metal aka bar will fail first most likely.
Joined: Wed May 20, 2015 6:22 pm Posts: 23 Location: Brooklin, Maine
scc wrote:
mmiller wrote:
5200 was a good choice. Tough as nails. Aluminum rivets are not very strong in shear, so keep and eye on any movement.
I hear you. I'm hoping the adhesive prevents shearing and the aluminum will be less prone to electrolysis. However, I understand the rivet mandrels may be SS. I'll be watching it closely.
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Have you had any electrolysis problems with the new aluminum ones? I went with all aluminum based on your post and concern.
Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm Posts: 15034 Location: Oceanside, California
Minimum glue issue, I hope, is a thing of the past. These are assembled by a vendor, so impossible for me to confirm the current glue amount being used. Engineers were on this some time ago.
_________________ Matt Miller Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales Warranty and Technical Support Hobie Cat USA (Retired 11/7/2022)
Minimum glue issue, I hope, is a thing of the past. These are assembled by a vendor, so impossible for me to confirm the current glue amount being used. Engineers were on this some time ago.
It was not the case Matt. My 2016 AI had the problem on ALL rivets. I went with marine good and aluminum rivets because I don't want to wait for the dealer and I know how to tackle this issue.
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