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PostPosted: Sun May 21, 2017 8:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 05, 2016 5:24 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Victoria, Australia
I bought a TI spinnaker kit second hand. The only real thing missing was the cam cleat.
I've had a look around at some of the boat shops but can't see the exact one in any of the Ronstan catalogues. I prefer the look and action of the Hobie one...

Can anyone let me know where I could get one of these?

Thanks,

David


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PostPosted: Sun May 21, 2017 9:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:25 pm
Posts: 2768
Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
It's a Harken cammatic cleat H471 available from any Hobie dealer. You may also need the fairlead/wedge kit for fitting to the x-bar.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 12:21 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2018 2:00 am
Posts: 23
Spinnaker question:
Is it easy to step/unstep the mast with boat in the water with the spinnaker setup?

Why:
Need to use the drives to go under a tunnel (no mast and ama’s folded in) to get to a larger lake.
Want to buy a spinnaker kit but needs to be an easy setup with unstepping and stepping the mast on the water.
No way I can do this at the shore (no beach, only dock sides.....live in the Netherlands).


p.s. love this forum…. New to the AI (couple a months now, 2015 model), lots of useful info, already modified the sail cleat and angle (much easier to control the sail in high winds now).


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 3:14 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:25 pm
Posts: 2768
Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
The spin kit complicates mast stepping a bit ...but it’s still a pretty simple task to do on water. The mast topper just sits on top of the mast so it can be dislodged when lowering but if you are careful it should stay on. Just make sure the halyard is loose and not caught around anything. I have done it on water a couple of times.
The upgraded extended swivel base makes it easy to get a more positive connection to the mast. I’ve recently added a couple of bungee buttons to the base and some bungee through the top sail webbing to ensure the topper stays on when lowering. Works fine in the driveway but I’ve yet to test it on water.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 1:09 am 
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Ok, thx.... just need to make sure the top is/stays attached (sounds easy), looked at video's and looks easy to do (not that many lines)

The idea is to add a jib and spinnaker and extra stay lines.
In case of a jib I also need to attach a second line to the top and have a fixed backstay i guess......

Will also put in side stays (that I can tension to control the spill a bit better and my girlfriend can still sail it).
Jib tentioning will be from the botton (bellow the drum), just one cleat to tension/release bottom of jib (bungie it to the furled main and easy to get the mast down and up with jib attached).

This way (while hiking out) I can get way more speed, already tested a bit with 4 temp. stay lines (winds bft 4) and I need to go outside the trampoline (above ama) to keep it level (used the main sheet line to keep me out). Mainsheet line already modified to release it easy under tension and angle (probably going to add a block so i can control it by hand and release fast if needed and steer a bit better with the sail).

Hiking out i do almost on-top of the back aka, two feet against hull this way you can control the weight on the back of the boat better and prevent it from diving....... (one hand sail line other rudder line). Just need something to support me better while that far out (easy and safe system) while controling rudder and mainsail by hand.

Round back hull, just a bit more lift from the back would be nice (something to study).

M-Drive out off course and dagger in.
A bit early to tell and not yet tested in higher winds (bft 6) but so far looks promissing.

Reinforcing the front (jib forces):
- want to run a thin sainless steel tensioning line from front to back UNDER the mast holder (bottom of the hull) to create an inboat tensioning triangle..... to counteract the jib/backstay forces would that work ?


P.s. I have an AI 2015 model and really like it and the mast sail design is really safe (my grilfriend cannot sail at all and goes out in bft 4, such an easy boat), but it also compromises the potential speed (tri's are fast boats), so I want both.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 4:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 1:58 am
Posts: 2815
Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
FWIW, I connect my spinnaker halyard to a stainless steel "O" ring shackle attached to the head. When raising the mast I add a short piece of sundry line (2-4 metres) between halyard and spin head, so there is plenty of slack when moving the mast into position.

Once the mast is in place, I disconnect the extra bit and shackle the halyard onto the O ring on the spinnaker, and shove the spare line in a cockpit pocket.

This helps to ensure there is not any unwanted force on the masthead fitting during mast raising.

_________________
Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker and Hangkai outboard
only cool people follow the (non-magnetic) titanium weight-loss program! lol.)


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 4:59 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
Posts: 2981
Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
Prettig:
Your back stay should protect your mast holder base just fine, no need to put a wire attached from the front to the bottom of the mast base. If you do I wouldn’t use stainless wire, (not nearly strong enough, but spectra rudder line would be plenty strong), the stainless wire is only good to like 90 lbs, where spectra is good to 300 lbs, with less stretch.
However it’s probably easier to just cut some 1/8x 2” by about 8” long aluminum plate and drop it in behind the bottom of the mast holder, then just blob a bunch of ge silicone around the plate. You want that plate pinched between the back of the mast holder and the front of the mirage well, ( all easily removed if you sell the boat). If you clean the area, then spray a thin coat of Krylon for plastics spray paint around the area you plan to gob the silicone onto, the silicone will stick really well.
Though all that is unneccessary unless you really push the boat way too hard, ( like I do).
The bow on newer AI’s are much stronger than the older models, you may not need anything as far as bow re-enforcement goes unless you have really big sails, or push the boat beyond design limits.
FE


Last edited by fusioneng on Wed Jun 20, 2018 6:51 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 12:36 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2018 2:00 am
Posts: 23
Ok the pipe thing sounds better (way easier), thx (and yes I am pushing the boat hard). My boat is a 2015 Adventure model (stronger hull ?)
P.s. the line I tought was needed to make sure the front does not fold (posted here in some threat).

Backstay....(for jib, I will start with a jib): if tight how to change sites (i did a few tests and the damn line was in the way of the sail, had to loose, tack and tighten again).
Will the standard hobie mast-top be high enough or do I need a higher/different one (fusioneng one, witch clears the sail) ?

Sorry for all the questions, but you guys done so much already, just need a few smart idea's (most I already found here). :D

Foil:
Looking at a rudder foil (lift from boat wave, less drag from wave and longer apperent hull.... so more speed)..... these do work (int 14 boats, cats, etc ...)
But what size ..... and reinforcing rudder setup, ideas would be welcome.

My house is at a small lake (private dock): so testing is very easy, test 5 minutes, back in a few minutes, change and test 5 minutes again.
--> Just have zero knowledge about foils, but need some help.
--> Maybe different threat for this one ?

Spinnaker:
Can the bag be mounted on the front of the mast ? (i do not use the cargo space) or will it be difficult to get it back in (out I guess will be easy). With Jib... just furl the jib first.
Lines .... not sure it will start interfering with other lines ?
Why: saves me time ... i need to setup the boat on the water if I want to go to the larger lake (and then the pinnaker would be nice).


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 8:35 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2014 9:02 am
Posts: 19
I've got a 2014 AI and love the spinnaker. But I'm mostly a fisherman, and the default spinnaker configuration is not suitable for my style of fishing, as it's nearly impossible not to snag, and I like to fold the amas in when fighting a big fish. So, I experimented with lots of things, and think I've finally come up with a solution that works well for me. I've added a short bowsprit that allows me to mount the snuffer bag in front. Everything seems to work just fine with the bag placed there, and dousing is especially smooth. A few pictures and a little more info can be found here:

http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index ... ic=84492.0


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 10:47 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2018 2:00 am
Posts: 23
great, i was thinking the same but you mounted it the other way around !......learned something, looks easier. Will be my next thing with a larger spin (but first fine-tuning the jib and the foil).


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 11:15 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2011 5:48 am
Posts: 15
A little more detail on that setup would be really nice!


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