how to get an AI left rear aka replacement in a hurry???

While you are waiting for the brace to come in you can always just lash the ama out with light rope so it can't fold in. The boat will work just fine.
Just tie a rope (3/16 line) around the front aka hull brace. Use a cinch knot then just run the end of the rope thru the loop and around the hull brace. Then run the line to the outer part of the rear aka. If you want to get fancy you can do a cinch knot on the outer knot as well and just wrap it around the aka bar and place it over one of the button cleats (the ones that hold the bungys on).
Then do the same on the rear hull brace and wrap it around the front aka then slip it over the button. Simple and easy, once rigged they can become perminant as safety lines. I used Paracord and the ropes form an X in the middle of the tramp and also keep the tramp from sagging. You can get 50 ft of 3/16 paracord at home depot for 5 or 6 bucks.
Usung light line is the key here, if you hit something it just snaps, so it's pretty safe.
Hope this helps.
FE

Mark, Thanks for calling Matt's post to my attention. I'm sure now that I need a V1 because my akas attach with a stainless steel pin on a shock cord. Matt - thanks for clarification. With the aka fasteners as the differentia, I'm not understanding why length of brace is relevant. It isn't if you know you have stainless steel pin, right?


Tim

Thanks!

Tim

Just a footnote to this affair. The brace arrived today. It comes with the connector that bolts to the aka. That connector eventuates in a short stub that fits inside the brace tube and should be bolted to it with a plastic bolt so that it will break away under force as mine did. However, the brace assembly that I received came with a stainless steel bolt inserted where the plastic bolt should be. This is a small matter but I think it would be better to ship it with the plastic bolt in the place it needs to be. These boats seem to attract a species of inventive geniuses who probably would never be confused about this; however, for the odd mechanical dork like myself, I think it would be helpful to assume minimal competence and ship with it set up as it should be.

Thanks to all for your help and advice!

Tim

We provide braces with the plastic bolt, so possibly the stainless version was added by ACK. All of the stock here has a black plastic bolt and nut.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Hang on a sec! There IS a steel bolt holding the end piece to the tube part of the brace. The PLASTIC bolt is what attaches the brace assembly to the aka. The steel bolt should remain in place, next to the plastic one. You should NOT need to touch the steel one at all.

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker

Depends on the model year Tony. On the (old?) AI's, the plastic bolt was at the "hinge". On the TI's because of the direction of stress (brace backwards) the plastic is in the tube with the steel at the "hinge".

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Hobie Island Sailing since 2006

Holy cow! I didn't pick up on that change. Mt 2012 TI has a steel bolt in the brace and a plastic one in the hinge. Are they interchangeable? I understand why the plastic one got moved, given that the brace sits behind the aka on the TI, and there is a possibility that the aka and brace could jam if the hinge bolt broke.

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker

I believe the brace forward of the aka the plastic sheer-bolt should be at the "hinge" (All AI's) and the brace behind the aka, the plastic sheer-bolt should be in the body with the steel at the "hinge". "In the body" not to be confused with the extra plastic sheer-bolt storage position.

This same part for both AI & TI could easily cause some miss-install confusion, depending on the positions assembled when shipped.

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Hobie Island Sailing since 2006

any one have some pictures of which is which? I'm confused.

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2015 TI Hibiscus " Bazinga"
Harbor Freight modified trailer with TI cradles
Heavy duty scupper cart with cradle
Hobie tramps- black

I'm pretty certain that the plastic bolt should go on the hinge whether you have an AI or a TI, the design is basically the same on both boats. If you look at the brace on the other side of your boat, just put the new one in the same way.
The risk if you put a steel bolt on the hinge is if you do have a crash, the way more expensive aka bar will just fold and be destroyed, ending your sailing till you can buy a new aka bar, last I checked the aka bars were around $200 bucks ea.

With the nylon bolt on the hinge if you hit something, it just breaks the bolt and can be easily replaced on the water.
Well that's the intent anyway.
Hope this helps.

EDIT:
I stand corrected, it appears the older AI's had a different setup, now I'm not sure about the Newer AI's either, I thought the used the same design on both the AI and TI, I may be mistaken.

Pics and more discussion here:
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=49556&p=223030
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=52085&p=238591

You know you are getting old when.....

You raise a question regarding the location of the steel bolt on the aka brace, only to discover that this very subject has already been the topic of detailed conversations not once but TWICE, AND that you had participated in both discussions. AND DON'T REMEMBER SQUAT ABOUT IT!

Jeez I am a gonner

Guess who is going to have a very close look at his TI braces tomorrow....

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker

I think with all that you have gone through the last couple of years Tony you're excused!