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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 12:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2017 12:46 pm
Posts: 39
I pick up my TI this Friday, it is a 2017 "Demo" boat. It's been out only 3-4 times on Demo's with sales person always on board and has not been out since I demo'd it a few weeks ago.

I have read a few threads on "longer term" issues like the rivet rubbing the mast and loose AKA joint rivets. Those shouldn't be any kind of issue yet but I'll still check them.

But I was curious of what a good list of items to inspect for any "used" T.I. for myself to double check this Demo and for anyone else interested in purchasing a used T.I.

Maybe even a comprehensive list of prevention suggestions as well.

Currently the list for me is:

Check Mast for any scratches at the base. I plan to wrap it with electrical tape (or something) to protect it.
Check AKA rivets.
Check AKA Shear pins. Use a safety line or Trampoline.
Check Mirage Fins. Not exactly sure what to check for.

_________________
2017 Tandem Island in Red. Lake sailing/kayaking in NH only.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 12:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:22 am
Posts: 42
Here's my 2 cents...

Check the Mirage Drive fins for evidence of shaft protrusion at the ends, a result of aggressive peddling in water that is too shallow. On that same note, check to make sure the Mirage Drive shafts are not bent.

Check the lines that lift and drop the rudder and make sure that they run smoothly from both seats. Also make sure that the lines retract properly when you let them go.

"...and that's all I have to say about that." F. Gump


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 8:00 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:13 pm
Posts: 199
Here is a quick guide for anyone buying a used or demo TI:

Unless you're looking for a pristine TI where you can just drop it into the water and go, you don't need to worry too much about buying a used TI like you would with used car. If you're reasonably handy, almost everything on a TI can relatively easily be fixed or replaced. However some items can be quite costly.

First, carefully examine the integrity of the hull. This is the most expensive part. Ensure there is no unreasonable damage anywhere, especially below the waterline. Scrapes and scratches on the bottom and sides are normal and virtually unavoidable, but look for any signs of extensive damage or a repair. I wouldn't consider a TI where a hole below the waterline was repaired for example. Look both inside and out. Ensure the hull was always well supported by looking for any bends or dimples, especially on the bottom. Open the front hatch and check the internal V-frame strut, it should be tight and unbent. Check for excessive UV damage which would indicate the boat was stored unprotected outside. Now check the amas for the same. Ensure the ama mounts and shock cords look ok. Check all three hull and ama plugs.

Next examine the mast and sail as these too are very expensive to replace. The mast should show zero signs of any kind of fraying especially at the base and there should be no undue wear or wear marks. There should be no missing mast mount bearings and the mount receiver should be checked for wear and proper operation. The sail should be reasonably sound and there should be no rips or tears. Check the battens and their supports. Again check for excessive UV damage. If you can, unfurl and re-furl the sail to ensure smooth operation. If the sail or mast should need replacement, the negotiated price should reflect the cost.

Next check the akas and their framework. There should be no bends from impacts/stress or any kind of structural damage inside or out. These can be expensive to replace. Don't worry too much about loose rivets, those are fairly common, not a sign of abuse or damage, and can be relatively easily and inexpensively repaired.

Now we get into items that can be replaced or repaired without excessive trouble or expense. However, if any need repair or replacement, factor that into the price negotiations. Some of these parts can cost hundreds of dollars. If you do not know how to repair these items yourself, factor in dealer labor costs.

Check both Mirage Drives. Work them by hand to ensure they work freely with no binding. Check the cables for rust or fraying. Check the fins for bends and rips. The drives can be rebuilt and all the parts are available, so if they require any minor repair this should not be a showstopper if you are getting a good price. Fit the drives into the hull and ensure they securely lock into place and release with no binding.

Check the dagger board operation. It should raise and lower without binding. It should secure into place in both directions yet retract if pushed. Check for unreasonable wear.

Check the seats, hatches, rudder, and rudder controls. The hatches should seal tightly and securely. The seats should not be excessively worn, ripped, or damaged. The newer post-2014 Vantage seats should be carefully checked to ensure all of their many operations are functional. The rudder should work freely from side to side and up and down with no binding. Check the rudder lines for fraying or other signs of requiring repair. These can be inexpensively replaced so it's not a showstopper. I personally would replace the rudder lines in any case on a used TI that was older than a couple of years. I would also replace the rudder pin and the aka shear bolts.

Check all sail control lines for fraying. Check all the Harken blocks and cleats for functionality. Again these can be replaced easily.

Check any valuable Hobie accessories that may be included such as the trampoline or spinnaker kits. Know the price of these items. The seller is justified in asking significantly more for a total selling price if they are desirable to you and they are in good shape. The same goes for any aftermarket accessories such as a fishfinder/chartplotter/depth finder, or an electric or gas outboard.

Now check any and all owner modifications that were made to the boat. Some modifications are expertly done and desirable which add to the value, while others may be questionably done or unwanted and subtract from the value.

If the boat comes with a trailer, ensure that it properly and evenly supports the hull. Ensure the trailer lights work. Check the hitch for proper operation. Ask the owner how often he greased the wheel bearings and look for bearing buddies. Check the tires and suspension and look for any damage or rust.

Finally, check for aesthetics. If the boat looks pristine it will sell for more, if it's beat up you can possibly use that to try to lower the price.

Know the exact value of a new TI and use that to gauge the cost and worth to you of purchasing a used one. If used TI's are rare in your area, they will sell for more.

If you decide to purchase the boat, ensure you will receive all the paperwork you will need before you hand over the money, in case you have to register it. Always get a valid receipt with the seller's name, address, and contact information. Ask for a copy of the original Hobie dealer's receipt and get all the documentation that came with the boat. Be sure you trust the seller, especially if he's a private party and not a dealer. If the boat was stolen and you pay for it, you may lose both the boat and all of your money. Ensure the original Hobie serial number is visible on the hull and matches the paperwork.

If you have any more questions and feel you can wait a day or two before making an offer, post a question to this forum and you should quickly receive an answer from the excellent community of TI and AI owners here. Taking a photo will help.


Please to add to this guide if you can think of anything else. Between everyone here we should be able to come up with everything that needs to be considered when purchasing a used or demo TI / AI.


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