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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 3:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:17 pm
Posts: 426
Location: Austin Texas
This is my new outboard mount based largely on what has already been done by others. Thanks for all of the information that helped me build this and get it almost right the first time.
This is REV B. with a 2" lower transom.
It's all TIG welded 1 1/2"x 1/8" stainless. The motor mount is attached to the boat with Yakattack 12" gear tracks and backing plates and their 1" T bolts. The knobs on the T bolts are new ones recently released that have brass inserts. The part of the motor mount that sits on the gear track is cut from the same 1 1/2" tubing. I would have used 1 1/2" SST bar channel here but was not able to find it nearby in small quantity.
The main sheet riser/accessory mount bolts to the motor mount in case I decide to remove it. It has a hinge part way up because my trailer has an upper deck and the riser needs to be folded to clear it. The top of the riser has another piece of gear track for the Gopro, light and whatever else I can think of to put up there. There is also a bracket for my Bluetooth speaker which puts it directly behind my head and it sounds great there.
The lightening holes were drilled with an annular cutter in a magnetic drill after being laid out, center drilled and a pilot hole drilled on a drill press. It's still a heavy assembly coming in at 9 lbs. for the motor mount alone and 12 lbs. for the riser assembly. I would have made it out of aluminum but I'm much better at TIG welding stainless.

Chris
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 11:39 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 1:46 am
Posts: 249
Location: Sweden, sjöbo
Love the design! Very sience fiction like! :)
You are taking this to the next level!
Very nice work mate! :)

Hope we can see some vids with your rig in action in the future?
All the best!
/Gustav

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Sailing my TI and fishing.... thats bliss!!


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 12:17 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2015 4:30 am
Posts: 237
Location: Delnor Wiggins, Fl Peters Twp PA
I immediately thought of Johnny 5 from the movie Short Circuit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlgJs_G8Co8

Beautiful work, Chris.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 12:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:17 pm
Posts: 426
Location: Austin Texas
Blush ! :oops:

I'll make some video for sure. Been too focused on the motor break in procedure and keeping an eye out for problems with the mount.

First time out I had a lot of water in the hull but later realized the rear hatch O-ring was twisted. Also had three people on the boat and was a bit overloaded.
Second time out had fixed the O-ring and got negligible water in the hull but it was just my 167 Lbs and my girlfriend who is also pretty small.

I'm planning to add an acrylic splash guard on the motor side.

I noticed that water gets washed forward from the rudder assembly onto the places where the control lines enter the hull. I'm not sure how much if any water ends up in the hull. I know the plastic tubes are held in clips under the gunwales but need to see how far forward those tubes go and remain higher than the stern.

Been thinking about what could be placed over the rear hatch and held on with something like a rare earth magnet so that water isn't constantly challenging that vertical gap where the seal sits. There must be something off the shelf that is just the right size. Something Frisbee shaped ?

Thanks for the positive comments !

Chris


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 7:54 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:13 pm
Posts: 656
You are an excellent welder. Very nice work.

Thank you for sharing!


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 1:41 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:25 pm
Posts: 2863
Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Very impressive mods Chris! 8)


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 7:31 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 01, 2006 1:16 pm
Posts: 605
Location: Colorado
Nice! I am surprised you get wash over the hatch with the outboard that far back but a splash plate would completely solve that. I used Lexan (which I think is a brand name) and its easy to work with for both cutting and drilling holes and its been very tough. I take my outboard mount on and off many times per season (sometimes I use the outboard, sometimes not) and dont put a lot of effort into where the mount gets stored when its not on the boat. The Lexan splash guard has been 100% reliable.

A trick I learned from someone on this forum for the steering and rudder up down lines is to dab some silicon adhesive over the holes and lines to make them more "water proof". The silicon seems to stick OK to the plastic and tubes but not the lines and I think this did help keep water out of the hull when using the outboard. Between the splash guard and the silicone on the line exit holes, I get very little water in the hull when motoring.

Curious why the sheet line riser? I sit in the back seat and do have to duck the sheet lines mostly to keep from losing a hat during transitions so it would be nice to have the lines a little higher. On the down side, this would be like moving the jib sheet track back on a sailboat to increase twist in the top part of the jib. You would do this for high winds. In low winds, all that twist de-powers the sail and with the sheet up that high, you likely have the top of the sail significantly twisted off.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 11:40 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:17 pm
Posts: 426
Location: Austin Texas
Walt thanks for the tips. I think I have a piece of Lexan to make the splash guard.
The splashing is intermittent, I'll have to make a video of it next time and see what causes it and where the guard needs to be.

I understand about the riser and performance, it's why I made it removable. Most of the time I don't care that much about speed but I may try with and without it and see if I can notice a difference. It was fun making the riser and easier to do everything at the same time rather than later wishing I had made it. If I remove it I could put a shorter post there and still have a pretty great place to mount stuff.

The mount comes off easily and I will probably remove it if I don't intend to motor.

Chris


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 1:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 1:46 am
Posts: 249
Location: Sweden, sjöbo
Buckaroo wrote:
Blush ! :oops:

I'll make some video for sure. Been too focused on the motor break in procedure and keeping an eye out for problems with the mount.

First time out I had a lot of water in the hull but later realized the rear hatch O-ring was twisted. Also had three people on the boat and was a bit overloaded.
Second time out had fixed the O-ring and got negligible water in the hull but it was just my 167 Lbs and my girlfriend who is also pretty small.

I'm planning to add an acrylic splash guard on the motor side.

I noticed that water gets washed forward from the rudder assembly onto the places where the control lines enter the hull. I'm not sure how much if any water ends up in the hull. I know the plastic tubes are held in clips under the gunwales but need to see how far forward those tubes go and remain higher than the stern.

Been thinking about what could be placed over the rear hatch and held on with something like a rare earth magnet so that water isn't constantly challenging that vertical gap where the seal sits. There must be something off the shelf that is just the right size. Something Frisbee shaped ?

Thanks for the positive comments !

Chris


Hello Chris!
I had a lot of leakage problems too in the rear of my TI.
I noticed the fishfinder/electronics cap in the rear storage leaked a lot so I sealed that off.
I also got tired of the twisting o-rings in the hatches and glued them down, se copy post below.
Now my TI is bone dry! The rear gets very wet and splashed when using the outboard but not a dropof H2O inside the hull anymore! :D

Husse0416 wrote:
Water leakage thru the Hobie hatches....

Yesterday I hardly had any water in the kayak and still at times there were about 10cm (4") of water over the front hatch. I figured this would happen so before I set of for the test run I prepared the hatches. I ceaned the grooves and put new silicone grease on the rubberrings and assured there were in the right position.

Today I see again that the rubberrings allready has rotated and are twirled. Unfortunately Hobie has made the groove in the hatches a little to wide and this lets the rubberrings to slip and rotate. (Shape up Hobie!)

Too cure this problem I will try this fix.
I put a small amount of Sikaflex in the grooves of the hatch to stabilize the rubberrings. Put on the Sikaflex with a small tops and tried to keep it tidy. I carefully smeared the thin layer of Sikaflex as evenly as possible and wiped off the excess från the edges of the hatch before reinserting the rubberrings.

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I hope that the Sikaflex will keep the rubberring in place in the right position.
Then I put silicone grease on the edge of the hatch as usual.

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I will report back if this was a succes (or maybe a total failiure).
It sure would be good to know that you can rely on the hatches not leaking.
/Gustav

EDIT: 2017-08-19
Degrease the grove in the hatch and the rubber carefully before applying the Sikaflex!! (I use etanol)

After opening and closing the hatches about 50 times the rubber rings stay in place in the correct position all the time. No leakage from the hatches at all, none, nill, nada, zinch!! :mrgreen:
I have drenched the hatches hard with the garden hoose and it has been raining the last few days and the kayak is still bone dry.
Seems to work so I am very happy with this fix. :lol:
Sikaflex usually grips hard and stay on good. I dont know for how long it will hold but if needed I can allways peel of the Sikaflex and redo the fix.
All the best!

_________________
Sailing my TI and fishing.... thats bliss!!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 4:48 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:17 pm
Posts: 426
Location: Austin Texas
Thanks Husse, I remember your post about that but didn't understand at the time that it was to keep the hatch O-rings from rotating out of position. Now I understand what you were doing.

Chris


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