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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 4:11 am 
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Location: Sweden, sjöbo
I am starting to plan the layout of the rear riser bar.
I will mount navigation lights, antennas, some other junk and of course a bracket for the main sheet on the bar.
A Harken (2 wheel) pulley will hang under the top of the bar. The height of the bar is ~120 cm (4') over the gunwale. The sheet on the pulley will hang about 10cm (4" ) under the top of the bar if I keep the full height.
The bar seems a bit high if I compare with pics of other TIs with a riser bar mounted?
Maybe lifting the main sheet to high up will reduce sail performance?

What is the optimal height for best performance of the main sail? Anyone tested this?
Grateful for any tips!
:)
All the best!
/Gustav

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 5:50 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
We had a riser bar for the mainsheet mounted to our motor mount for a while, (our motor mount is pvc stuck in the rod holders on our TI), It was around 15" high, as measured from the deck, ( similar to a goal post), I think it raised the sail control line around 8 to 10". I didn't notice much loss in sail performance at that height.
I mostly solo from the front seat and ended up removing the bar in favor of an anchor line spool that looks like a paper towel holder that has about 100' of 3/8 anchor line on it. I don't know how many have had a hundred ft of 3/8 anchor line laying all tangled up on their deck, it takes up the entire rear seat area and catches and tangles on everything imagineable, (just like captain Ahab in that scene in the old movie Moby Dick). We are divers and use our anchor a lot, so I needed an anchor line management system more than the riser. My plan which I haven't got around to yet, is to make a taller goal post, around 20" above the deck. But instead of running the sail control line over the goal post, I'm planning to run the sail control line under the cross bar attached to a dual pulley with a eye hole, (with both control lines running thru it side by side). Then attach the pully to a piece of 3/8" diameter bungy cord stretched between the left and right uprights up near the top. Doing it this way when the sail control line is tight (from the sail), the bungy stretches so the sail control line drops, (so as not to effect the sails performance). But when the main is furled and the sail control line is relaxed, the sail control line clears my head.
In our case we often run with our main completely furled , (put away) and just run on our wing jib sail, which provide all the power we need without overpowering the boat too much, (mostly in winds over 10mph).
Result is the sail control line when the main is furled is up and out of the way so it's not in the rear passengers neck or arm pits so when they get in and out of the boat they don't have to deal with that annoying sail control line. But still functions as designed when your actually sailing, (because the bungy stretches).
By mounting the pulleys on a ring, the sail control line is allowed to slide back and forth between the goal post uprights when on left tack and right tack.
Though I haven't built it yet, I've been thinking about this solution for a long time. The main reason I don't sit in the back is I hate that sail control line in my arm pits when the main is furled. When actually sailing with the main unfurled, the control line doesn't bother me too much (only when crossing tacks).
How strong that bungy needs to be is as yet undetermined, it may end up being a 1/4" bungy, (yet to be determined by trial and error, (may end up being a very weak bungy)).
Hope this gives you some insight into your design, by using an approach like this, you can likely make that riser as high as you desire (I've seen guys with risers over 24" tall), without compromising the main sails performance too badly, (you get your cake, and can eat it too) .
Hope this helps
FE


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 10:11 am 
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Location: Sweden, sjöbo
Thanks for all the input FE!
Lots of interesting stuff to consider.
I will try adding an adjustable crossbar to the top of the riser bar. Then I can easily adjust the height and try out how the height affect the sail perfomance.
Adding a sliding ring and a bungie is a very good idea. Maybe I can implement this aswell.

All the best!
/Gustav

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 10:32 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
That would be a good idea to make at least the sail connection height adjustable, (kind of unrelated to the actual height of the tower itself), this way you can physically test different heights and give the rest of us real feedback vs most responses (including mine), saying it appears to hinder sail performance, most of us are just going by feel (nothing scientific or measured).
What would be really cool is if you made the tower strong enough to support your weight up there on a swivel chair, (your own personal fly bridge for fishing), that would be a first I suspect.
FE


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 12:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:17 pm
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Location: Austin Texas
The center of my fair-leads are 32.5 in. above the gunwales. I chose that height so that the sheet doesn't knock my hat off :) I"m 5'11".
I had to mount the fairleads towards the stern side of the 1 1/2" square tubing they are hanging on because of the sharp angle they make with the rear pulley. It keeps the line from fouling on the edge of the tubing. Round tube would probably be a better choice to avoid this if your riser is close to the rear hatch.

Chris


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 2:13 pm 
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Location: Sweden, sjöbo
fusioneng wrote:
That would be a good idea to make at least the sail connection height adjustable, (kind of unrelated to the actual height of the tower itself), this way you can physically test different heights and give the rest of us real feedback vs most responses (including mine), saying it appears to hinder sail performance, most of us are just going by feel (nothing scientific or measured).
What would be really cool is if you made the tower strong enough to support your weight up there on a swivel chair, (your own personal fly bridge for fishing), that would be a first I suspect.
FE


LOL! Well a "fly bridge" is (even for me) a bit excessive but the riser bar is very solid (ss) and I will try using it for the rear mount for my hamock. (More about this weird idea (of a hamock in a kayak) and how I am planning to set this up in my build blog later on in the future weeks)

:D

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 2:19 pm 
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Buckaroo wrote:
The center of my fair-leads are 32.5 in. above the gunwales. I chose that height so that the sheet doesn't knock my hat off :) I"m 5'11".
I had to mount the fairleads towards the stern side of the 1 1/2" square tubing they are hanging on because of the sharp angle they make with the rear pulley. It keeps the line from fouling on the edge of the tubing. Round tube would probably be a better choice to avoid this if your riser is close to the rear hatch.

Chris


Hi Chris!
Well I will start with the pulley for the main sheet at ~ 110cm ( 42" ) and hope that works. Otherwise I will lower the pulle bit by bit and well see were it ends up. :)
The pulley on the riser bar will hang on a carbiner hook so I can easily totally remove (lie down) the main sheet along the gunwale if I want the lines totally out of the way.
:)

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 4:24 pm 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Husse0416 wrote:
(More about this weird idea (of a hamock in a kayak) and how I am planning to set this up in my build blog later on in the future weeks)
:D

It's not such a weird idea Gustav and has been done already by among others, a couple of mates of mine Chrisj and Slaughter. I've seen first hand how well it works, having done a number of overnighters with them.
Details in the epic 'Sleeping on board' thread here:
https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic. ... 1489720152


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 5:23 pm 
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Location: Sweden, sjöbo
stringy wrote:
Husse0416 wrote:
(More about this weird idea (of a hamock in a kayak) and how I am planning to set this up in my build blog later on in the future weeks)
:D

It's not such a weird idea Gustav and has been done already by among others, a couple of mates of mine Chrisj and Slaughter. I've seen first hand how well it works, having done a number of overnighters with them.
Details in the epic 'Sleeping on board' thread here:
https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic. ... 1489720152


Exelent!! I have not seen that thread yet, will read it through! :)
A hammock is perfect for shorter overnighters and sets up in minutes.
I am saving up to order the new Clark nx-270. Had the 250 version earlier and I was very happy with it.
I will use the mast as a part of the hammock rig and a tarp on top over the mast of course.
:)

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