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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 2:14 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2015 8:53 am
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Location: Paoli Pennsylvania - East Coast USA
Reading https://www.austinkayak.com/assets/pdf/ ... ctions.pdf, I come away thinking that the "Backing Ring" just functions as nuts/washers for the self-tapping screws.

That being the case, I am tempted to dispense with the 3/16" holes and backing plate and simply use machine screws through just-large-enough holes with washers and nylock nuts on the inside of the hull.

Can anybody point out the error of my ways?

Full Disclosure: this hatch is going into the fiberglass cockpit of an OC-1 instead of an AI:
https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipM ... D1ETIZtgKq
https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipM ... YCreTOqy6d

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 7:10 pm 
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Location: Maui, Hawaii
Should work. It could be a bit less as strong without the lower plate to help sandwich the hatch hole but calking might make up some it.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 5:15 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:17 pm
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Location: Austin Texas
I always use anti seize compound on stainless fasteners going into stainless nuts or tapped holes because stainless has a tendency to seize, especially in blind tapped holes in stainless.
Alternatively you could drill clearance holes in the ring and preserve the benefits of using it.

- C


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 4:17 pm 
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I guess the backing ring could be adding added stfifness to the hull to potentially compensate for any weakness created by the hole


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