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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 12:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2015 9:59 am
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I received my free kits hook/hinge/spring replacement for Hobie Island AKA.
I thought this would take 2 hours, ended up wasting the whole day.

The 4 tiny screws holding each AKA bar seize up, they won't move. The result were 7 broken screw heads. Drill this this SS out was impossible without a drill press. I tried hand drill >>> failed.

Now All my AKA bars has 3 screws and and bunch of glue to hole the rest.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 3:09 pm 
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There has been a lot of discussion about this recently. Heat is the answer.

https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=62288

Airsails wrote:
Just finished the upgrade on my 2011 Tandem Islander.
Removing the AKA knuckle lock plates can be difficult and result in broken screws, here is how I got mine out.
All mine were seized, this method removed them with no sheared heads or damaged threads.
First you remove the plastic lock plates with a pair of side cutters and pliers, they break off fairly easily.
Next, using a heat gun, heat each screw head in turn. They need to be really hot, I measured the temp using a laser thermometer and got a max reading of 350 degrees C. Takes up to a minute with the heat gun 2 cm from the screw head to get them this hot.
Now while hot, use a screwdriver to wiggle the head back and forth, shouldn't take much effort to remove them, if the screw is still tight, heat it more. My screws took on a brown tinge when they got hot enough. You won't damage the metal parts with the heat gun, it isn't hot enough for that.
I applied grease to the threads when the screws went back in to help stop corrosion.
Having a 6-32 UNC tap to clean the threads out helps when reinstalling the screws.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2020 2:33 pm 
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Location: Pacific Grove, California Central Coast, USA
I also had trouble with some of the screws in doing the hinged aka lock upgrade. I sheared a number off remarkably easily, though others came out. Then I closely examined the plastic parts these screws hold on, comparing the ones I was taking off my 2010 and 2017 TI's with the ones supplied in the Aka lock kit. The kit has a diagram showing an old style that has a much less pronounced ramp, but all dimension of the original ones that were on my two boats and the new ones in the kit were the same. I could see that they had not come from the same mold because there were some consistent mold marks on the older ones that were lacking on the new ones, but these were not functional in any way. Before you risk shearing off screws, do a close comparison. Once I examined them, I proceeded with the hinged lock upgrade without swapping out the plastic collars on the ends of the aka bars. When I took the sheared off screws to an auto machine shop, they could not do anything for me, the SS of the screws would just divert the drill bits into the aluminum casting. I ended up gluing the part in place with JB weld, and will cross my fingers. I surely wish I had realized the problem earlier, and especially that I had realized that that part of the job is unneeded, as the parts are the same, despite the different drawings in the instructions.


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