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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 1:01 pm 
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A quick question.
What's the PVC pipe size for 2016 Adventure Island?
I'll slide it under for kayak storage.

Thanks.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 1:45 pm 
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Anyone know? Before I head to home depot.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 2:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
Not sure on the AI, on our TI we used I think 1 1/4” class 40 pvc, or whichever size fits standard wood broom handle/ stick easily. We slid wooden broom sticks into the pvc to make it a little stronger and resistant to sagging under load, (wood has incredible strength that way). The wood is protected from water while in the pvc.
The trick to the pvc is with the boat on the trailer, you want the lowest points of the boat to be only an inch or so above the trailer cross beams or flat bed trailer floor. If using cross members, you want at least 3 cross members, (fairly wide) for the hull to settle onto when strapped down, or sitting in the sun. We stored ours in the sun on the trailer when at our key west house for sometimes weeks at a time, (if it wasn’t on the roof of our vehicle), and boy did it get hot, ( It’s really hot in KW).
You also want the bow supported.
Another trick is to make sure the pvc tubes stick out past the rear of the trailer around 12-15”, (with broom handles shoved into the pvc). Those pipes sticking out help support the boat better, but more importantly they help guide the boat onto the trailer when there is a cross current or cross wind. Adding a simple roller at the back cross member of the trailer, ( in between the pvc pipes), makes loading the boat way easier. We had a winch, and would unwind the winch prior to lifting the boat, we then lifted the bow onto the roller, (on our trailer we had to lift about 6”), the hook the winch to the bow padeye, we then just winched the boat up onto the trailer, (I just used a cordless drill to run the boat winch).
When launching from boat ramps make sure to have a long leader line in you hand because as soon as you unclip the winch from the bow padeye the boat slides into the water really fast all by itself, lol all we have to do is watch and hang onto that line.

We store the boat on the trailer with both big outboard on the boat always, (we never remove them, but long term storage, (like in the garage) the motors need to be stored upright, (not tilted).

We often launch with ama’s out, and all sails all rigged and up, (basically ready to sail). Most of the time we setup and breakdown in the parking lot because boat ramps down here are always really busy.
To support our folded in AMA’s we just put foam on the cross bars, (or the outer trailer frame in our case), then covered with electrical tap, (wrapped around like bike handlebars. Amazingly that stupid tape held up for almost 4-5 yrs.
On the roof of our vehicle we use pvc coated 1 1/2” dia closet rods (home depot, (around $10 bucks ea)). If I ever do another trailer I’ll be using those closet poles instead of pvc tubing, (lol we have like 1/4 million road miles with those stupid closet poles now, same poles,,, still goin strong).
Hope some of these tips help
FE


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 2:57 pm 
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Thanks fusioneng.
I guess the bottom is the same between AI and TI, I'll get some.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 11:15 am 
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Dont forget on the 2016 you'll have to dremel (cut) out a spot on the PVC for the "venturi" drain to rest in.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 2:28 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
Yea I forgot to mention that...
On 2015 and newer boats their is a scupper drain in that groove on the right side. Most everyone just notches out that pvc pipe only in that area, with the boat in it’s final position. Most everyone does it and I know of no issues, (none reported on here anyway), doin that. Doesn’t hurt the drain dragging the boat over over it.
If you end up with the pvc coated closet poles, (what I use), after grooving out you will want to seal the wood to prevent water intrusion into the wood.
Hobie is no fan of the pvc racks, their main complaint about the pvc racks is if they are too tall ( really big pvc), the scupper holes can poke up thru the deck, (not a good thing). That’s why I used fairly small dia pipe.
Hope this helps
FE


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 8:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 7:10 pm
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Tech wrote:
A quick question.
What's the PVC pipe size for 2016 Adventure Island?
I'll slide it under for kayak storage.

Thanks.


Here are some picts from another post I made in the Pro Angler forum--using a combination of PVC and Hobie cradles.

For the tandem island, I used the hobie cradles for the Tandem Island mounted onto 1 1/4 in PVC pipe, slip lined with wood closet rods--like fusoneng has recommended--which idea I have used in 3 trailers now. .

The trailer length is 15.75 ft--so there is overhang front/rear for the tandem island--I used 10 ft of the reinforced PVC to reduce the unsupported length. This way I can mount the hobie cradle spacing about 69 inches apart.

Here are some picts of the cradles/pvc pipe when I started setting up the trailer for our kayaks:

Triton Trailer w 6 place rack
Image

Triton Trailer rear
Image

Triton Trailer under Tandem Island, rt:
Image


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 10:27 pm 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
I am confused... how does the pvc pipe help when it doesn't touch the hull?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 9:05 am 
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tonystott wrote:
I am confused... how does the pvc pipe help when it doesn't touch the hull?


Good question;
One is that it allows me to slide the cradles longitudinally along the PVC to get the correct 67 inch placement--my traiiler cross arms are spaced at 79 inches; so I had to set the cradles to shorter than the trailer spacing is setup for.

Anther is that the PVC helps me load the kayak onto the cradles/trailer. By having the small roller and curved PVC at the rear, it is easier for me to slide the nose of the TI up onto the trailer.

I am still working on the next trailer mod--but am likely to use the PVC to help support attaching a hobie TI dolly to the rear of the trailer & under the TI hull. I don't have the dolly yet (on order, hopefully to my local dealer).

Another mod is to put an aluminum tool box in front of the cargo box---I used aluminum rails for that, instead of the PVC--to gain strength/stiffness.

In my prior two trailers, I used a flat plywood base covered with coreoplast--with PVC pipes screwed down onto the center. In this case the PVC pipes helped center the boat, kept it from sliding laterally, and were about the right height to touch the hull, when the hull was sitting flat on the plywood base. For this trailer, I am trying to save as much weight as possible, but still make it easy to load with the higher lift height from the larger 12 in tires and cross arm racks.

I welcome all suggestions--and would enjoy seeing other options.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 9:51 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
The coolest trailer mod I ever saw was the one with the big beach cart incorporated into the trailer, somebody posted that a while back, I thought it was the coolest idea ever, and wished I had seen it before doing my trailer, (never dawned on me to do that at the time).
The only reason I never bought the Hobie cradles was because they are uber expensive, and quite a few guys complained they didn’t last very long, (true or not I have no idea).
Plus I had a harbor freight trailer that only cost, $140 bucks, (plus maybe $100-$150 in aluminum for the mods to make it work for me). The pvc bunks were only about $20 bucks in materials, lol fit my budget. I’m not sayin get a harbor freight trailer, if you can afford better, it’s worth it.
There are a lot of TI’s around here, and I often help people load onto their trailers, (with cradles), seems like a pain to get over that sticky grey rubber.
FE


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 10:35 am 
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This is what I love about this forum.

I got 1'' 1/4 PVC pipe. look like only 1/3 of the kayak touch the PVC. I guess it's good.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 3:36 pm 
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fusioneng wrote:
The coolest trailer mod I ever saw was the one with the big beach cart incorporated into the trailer, somebody posted that a while back, I thought it was the coolest idea ever, and wished I had seen it before doing my trailer, (never dawned on me to do that at the time).
The only reason I never bought the Hobie cradles was because they are uber expensive, and quite a few guys complained they didn’t last very long, (true or not I have no idea).
Plus I had a harbor freight trailer that only cost, $140 bucks, (plus maybe $100-$150 in aluminum for the mods to make it work for me). The pvc bunks were only about $20 bucks in materials, lol fit my budget. I’m not sayin get a harbor freight trailer, if you can afford better, it’s worth it.
There are a lot of TI’s around here, and I often help people load onto their trailers, (with cradles), seems like a pain to get over that sticky grey rubber.
FE


The kayak beach dolly should arrive in a week, or so--hoping I can figure out a clean way to mount it, as it is huge.

Here is a pict of my 1st home made trailer--which I got for free--needed to add new hubs/wheels/wiring and a plywood deck. I used your idea for 1-1/4 in pvc pipes with a wooden dowel sealed-in, to position and hold the TI. Tacking down coreoplast sheets makes a nice slippery load/unload--like you said--it will unload by itself, if you don't attach a rope to it. This flat trailer also allows me to open the amps/tramps/hakas and launch fully rigged. I use it most all the time.

The reason I added the trailer with the 6 cross arms is that I need to deliver 4 sea kayaks to my daughter's family in Washington State--and I want to bring the TI to use once we get there. We are in northern Wisconsin by Lake Superior. Am wondering if you have any advice for traveling with 5 kayaks across the mountain/western states. Do you know which states require inspections? or anything we could do to tag them during the trip. I have no plans to use them till we get to Washington state.

Thanks much for all your helpful advice.

Flat TI trailer with 1-1/4 inch pvc covered runners
Image

New trailer with tool box added:
Image


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 10:57 am 
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I used two 3 inch x 10 ft PVC to hold the main hull. Bolted to uni-strut at the ends and in the middle to give it a slight bow. Also melted a depression in the one pipe for the scuppers. Used 2x4s for the Amas to lay on.

I'll try to get some pics of the trailer posted.


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