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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2018 2:57 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 7:15 am
Posts: 6
I started to install the upgrade last week. 2015 TI.

Spring hooks were straightforward. I trial installed the existing screws in the plastic to cut the threads, and sprayed with copper grease prior to final assembly.

The lock bearings....
Although I sprayed lots of release oil on the small screws - and treated with great care, 50% of them sheared in the Crossbar Castings. Classic Aluminium / Stainless interaction.
My preferred fix is to drill through the casting and install 2.5mm stainless split pins, with plenty of 'Forespar Lanocote' being applied.
The best option would be to purchase 3 new Crossbar Castings with 16 screws, probably pricey and indefinite lead time to Europe.

Imagine my delight to discover that the lock bearings I removed with so much collateral damage are identical to the new replacements. I advise others to study the 'Old' and 'New' images in the literature really carefully to verify which bearing type is actually installed.

Good Luck


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2018 6:38 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2014 6:43 am
Posts: 92
Location: Chalfont Pa
Had similar issues, after buggering one I just cut the plastic out and then had access for PB blaster and heat, which made removal of the rest easy. But there was plenty of frustration and bad words on the first one.
Doesn't compare for a minute to the failure of the old ones. Small craft warning and in Barnegat Bay. Rear one came loose, boat flipped in seconds and buried the mast in muck. Not fun righting the boat and even less trying to get back in after getting worn out getting the boat back together and upright.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2018 11:10 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 12533
Location: Oceanside, California
There is a lot of discussion about the best process in these forums. One was the cut away of the old bearing and tapping (hitting) the screws to break the corrosion bond. That or the application of heat.

Airsails wrote:
Just finished the upgrade on my 2011 Tandem Islander.
Removing the AKA knuckle lock plates can be difficult and result in broken screws, here is how I got mine out.
All mine were seized, this method removed them with no sheared heads or damaged threads.
First you remove the plastic lock plates with a pair of side cutters and pliers, they break off fairly easily.
Next, using a heat gun, heat each screw head in turn. They need to be really hot, I measured the temp using a laser thermometer and got a max reading of 350 degrees C. Takes up to a minute with the heat gun 2 cm from the screw head to get them this hot.
Now while hot, use a screwdriver to wiggle the head back and forth, shouldn't take much effort to remove them, if the screw is still tight, heat it more. My screws took on a brown tinge when they got hot enough. You won't damage the metal parts with the heat gun, it isn't hot enough for that.
I applied grease to the threads when the screws went back in to help stop corrosion.
Having a 6-32 UNC tap to clean the threads out helps when reinstalling the screws.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2018 8:44 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 7:15 am
Posts: 6
Thanks Matt,
Where can I locate the part number for just the AKA Casting and 6-32 SS fasteners

Regards


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2018 10:48 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 12533
Location: Oceanside, California
We don't have the casting on its own. Only comes with the aka arm... an assembly.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA


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