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 Post subject: H-Bar on Tandem Island
PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2019 1:23 pm 
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Location: Punta Gorda, FL USA
Has anyone mounted an H-Bar/standup bar on their Island? I have seen a youtube video with one installed but it's from 2016. I just purchased a 2019. Here is the link https://youtu.be/m0ewSNHw85E. I think this would be great to raise the mainsheet line above the rear seat. It would also be great for adding rod holders and gear.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2019 7:22 am 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
Buying an H-bar and adapting it to fit would be an exercise if futility in my opinion. Just head down to your hardware store and buy PVC pipe with elbows, bends etc , plus some pvc adhesive, and build your own.

Or, you could do what the great majority of TI users do, and just accept the occasional times you have to duck...; you will have a getter sail shape that way too.

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2019 10:17 am 
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Location: Punta Gorda, FL USA
Thanks for the reply Tony. I had already been leaning to a PVC version but wanted to check to see if anyone had made it work with minimal modification. Still deciding if I want something taller to hold the mainsheet or just something shorter to hold rod holders and accessories.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2019 12:51 pm 
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Location: Aberdeenshire, Scotland, UK
atcbill, I was also thinking about this mod and doubling up and a motor mount. Currently I have a PVC tube motor mount but am getting increasingly frustrated sailing from the back seat with the main sheet. There is a chap on here Husse0416 I think is his name who did a fantastic build with stainless steel which is worth looking at. Let me know if you can't find him. He goes by the name of Fiske Gustav Nord on Facebook where you can see some pictures of his amazing mods. You could also use the YakAttack CommandStand or Feelfree Stand Up Assist Bar - both a reasonable bit cheaper than Hobie's......!! Plenty of PVC pipe examples as you will have seen though....

Try this link? https://www.facebook.com/husse.svensson

Just checked out the video link that you posted (which I'd seen before) no reason why you can't do that too - although an older model TI it's just a case of using trac gear from Yak Attack to mount the bar.

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2015 Tandem Island - Golden Papaya "HALIBOO"
(retired) Outback - Hibiscus Red
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2019 7:47 pm 
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atcbill wrote:
Thanks for the reply Tony. I had already been leaning to a PVC version but wanted to check to see if anyone had made it work with minimal modification. Still deciding if I want something taller to hold the mainsheet or just something shorter to hold rod holders and accessories.


I made two PVC motor mounts: one short version for just a motor (and a downrigger). The other I added rod holders (and height). The taller model allows the main sheet to be router either low or high.

Short pvc motor mount:
Image

Tall pvc motor mount:
Image

Note: for strength, I have 1 1/4 inch wooden dowl glued inside the PVC (which does add a lot of weight).

We run a 2.5 hp Suzuki. On our 3rd year with it.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2019 7:59 am 
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Location: Punta Gorda, FL USA
Haliboo wrote:
atcbill, I was also thinking about this mod and doubling up and a motor mount. Currently I have a PVC tube motor mount but am getting increasingly frustrated sailing from the back seat with the main sheet. There is a chap on here Husse0416 I think is his name who did a fantastic build with stainless steel which is worth looking at. Let me know if you can't find him. He goes by the name of Fiske Gustav Nord on Facebook where you can see some pictures of his amazing mods. You could also use the YakAttack CommandStand or Feelfree Stand Up Assist Bar - both a reasonable bit cheaper than Hobie's......!! Plenty of PVC pipe examples as you will have seen though....

Try this link? https://www.facebook.com/husse.svensson

Just checked out the video link that you posted (which I'd seen before) no reason why you can't do that too - although an older model TI it's just a case of using trac gear from Yak Attack to mount the bar.


Haliboo, just checked out the photos from the facebook page. I really like the look and sturdiness of the stainless mod. I might have to re-think what I'm going to do.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2019 8:05 am 
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Joined: Sat May 04, 2019 8:05 am
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Location: Punta Gorda, FL USA
I made two PVC motor mounts: one short version for just a motor (and a downrigger). The other I added rod holders (and height). The taller model allows the main sheet to be router either low or high.

Short pvc motor mount:
Image

Tall pvc motor mount:
Image

Note: for strength, I have 1 1/4 inch wooden dowl glued inside the PVC (which does add a lot of weight).

We run a 2.5 hp Suzuki. On our 3rd year with it.[/quote]

itiming, nice mods. I was leaning to non PVC because it didn't seem like it would be sturdy enough. Using the dowl inside the PVC is something I hadn't thought of and a great idea. Also having two versions fits the bill too depending if it's a fishing or sailing day. Thanks for the ideas!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2019 11:25 am 
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atcbill wrote:
I made two PVC motor mounts: one short version for just a motor (and a downrigger). The other I added rod holders (and height). The taller model allows the main sheet to be router either low or high.

itiming, nice mods. I was leaning to non PVC because it didn't seem like it would be sturdy enough. Using the dowl inside the PVC is something I hadn't thought of and a great idea. Also having two versions fits the bill too depending if it's a fishing or sailing day. Thanks for the ideas!


There are some excellent aluminum tube options - which can be made both strong and light. I looked to hit as many of these design goals as possible to fit my use:

1. Top of motor mount is at least 7 inches above the gunwale (to stay above the wave, as the stern settles and also lift the prop high to motor when too shallow for the mirage drives).

2. Place motor mount far to the rear (to allow full use of behind-the-seat storage, yet open the rear hatch and move motor noise as far back as possible).

3. Allow motor attachment to either port or starboard (I use both, but prefer the starboard, as I fix the motor pointing forward and steer with the TI rudder (left hand)).

4. Attach/detach rapidly (the PVC slips in -- takes about 10 seconds to insert/remove -- can easily move to any TI w/o mods).

5. Provide option for rod holders (dry for the reels and usable under sail).

6. Offer mounting base for other options (I added scottie mounts for a GoPro, a night stern navigation led light, and a scottie downrigger).

So far, the pvc mounts are working well for me. One could gain weight savings using aluminum, however.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2019 2:50 pm 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
I assume everyone is well aware that the rod holders do not offer unlimited strength, and any failure could be catastrophic...

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2019 3:40 pm 
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tonystott wrote:
I assume everyone is well aware that the rod holders do not offer unlimited strength, and any failure could be catastrophic...


Yes, you correct that PVC simply glued together offers little structural strength - esp for dynamic loads.

I should have explained more clearly where the necessary strength comes from. The structural strength/vibration damping/durability comes from the internal wooden structure of 1-1/4 inch wood rods -- which are baluster fastener connected and glued within the pvc covering. I also use two stainless steel bolts to pass the stress across the span between the uprights.

The primary force is the counter-clockwise rotating force exerted by the prop through the lever arm to the motor mount. Others, including fusioneng, have explained that a spectra line from the lower motor shaft to the stern works well to relieve this moment arm. Still others have explained that their motor use rarely exceeds 1/4 throttle (no need to push beyond the hull speed). And yes, do use the safety kill switch and please also include a SS cable leash to prevent motor loss.

Metal motor mounts can be excellent.

Simply offering a solution that matches my use.

You mileage will likely vary.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2019 7:27 pm 
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I suspect you missed my point... the vulnerable part is the strength of the rod holder sockets themselves. This is not mitigated by strengthening the hardware above the deck at all.

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2019 9:26 pm 
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tonystott wrote:
I suspect you missed my point... the vulnerable part is the strength of the rod holder sockets themselves. This is not mitigated by strengthening the hardware above the deck at all.


I took into account the stresses so that the design distributes them along the gunnel. For low-throttle running, the mount by itself manages fine. For higher rpms, I add a spectra string to lower the torque. The setup is working well for me for 3 years.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2019 1:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2018 6:55 pm
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Hi,
I made one for my tandem island and love the way it works. I sail solo from the back most of the time and this keeps the main sheet from hitting me in the head. I am not a super-experienced sailor or racer, but I do not notice any performance difference when I am using it or not using it, but it's definitely more comfortable.
It slides in & out of the the rod-holder holes behind the seat, and I secure with bungees so I did not change or damage anything by mounting it to to hull and it pops in & out in seconds. The sheet and bungees exert downward pressure so it stays securely in place (in any wind I'd be out in)
I used:
1 1/4" PVC
2 ea. 45 degree angle fittings
2 ea. 90 degree angle fittings
3 ea. 3" eye bolts
PVC glue
I will be visiting my boat tomorrow.I'll take pictures & post them over the weekend

Carol Lawlor
Lake Waccamaw, NC


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2019 12:18 pm 
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I'm sorry, but no one should be making a motor mount out of PVC. It's simply not an adequate or safe material for such a purpose, however fortified. Not to mention it looks like something out of a plumber's nightmare. And Tony is correct, no one should be using the rod holder sockets as mount points for an outboard motor.

There are numerous examples of excellent motor mounts throughout this forum made out of aluminum that anyone can fabricate, there is absolutely no need to use PVC. I highly recommend that someone requiring a motor mount consider these first.

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2019 5:32 am 
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Location: Punta Gorda, FL USA
Thank you for all the replies and great ideas. I won't be using it as a motor mount so the PVC would work fine. I'll hopefully decide and have something put together in the next few weeks.


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