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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2019 6:16 am 
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Location: Northern VA
Anyone know which H-Bar was mounted on the TI in the video? I know could achieve the same functionality with PVC, but the clean and professional looking install of the H-bar with the ability to add the H-rail rod holders or other accessories would be very handy.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2019 7:08 am 
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s9utct wrote:
Anyone know which H-Bar was mounted on the TI in the video? I know could achieve the same functionality with PVC, but the clean and professional looking install of the H-bar with the ability to add the H-rail rod holders or other accessories would be very handy.

It looks like he's using the H-Bar Pro Angler or the Hobie H-Bar Outback which he's adapted for use with the TI. Very nice, and far better than PVC.

If you want something less costly you can try the Feelfee Stand up bar which is highly rated.

There are also many more available such as the YakAttack line.

I know of no bar made specifically for the TI, so with any of these, as well as with PCV, you'll need to improvise a little, but usually you simply just bolt them onto the hull.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2019 1:19 pm 
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pro10is wrote:
I'm sorry, but no one should be making a motor mount out of PVC. It's simply not an adequate or safe material for such a purpose, however fortified. Not to mention it looks like something out of a plumber's nightmare. And Tony is correct, no one should be using the rod holder sockets as mount points for an outboard motor.

There are numerous examples of excellent motor mounts throughout this forum made out of aluminum that anyone can fabricate, there is absolutely no need to use PVC. I highly recommend that someone requiring a motor mount consider these first.

Image

Image


I much appreciate your posts. Your well documented/=extensive experience with TI motors is very useful/helpful.

My motor mount design goals are different than yours. i.e., no holes, no attachments, portable between different TI's and a few seconds to install/uninstall. My motor mount does what I ask from it. That said, I do not believe that any motor/mount, other than Hobie's, is certified for use, with the tag noting a 400 watt maximum. Based on the tag, adding a 2.5 hp gas motor to the TI is not sanctioned by Hobie.

Perhaps it is understood that posts of TI motor mounts, which support gas engines, assume a disclaimer that adding such power is beyond the Hobie TI design specs.

I think this forum is a terrific way to gain insight into the TI versatility. I enjoy seeing different approaches and am also interested in avoiding/uncovering failures. -- esp, if the failure cause is known.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2019 8:32 pm 
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I repeat... relying solely on the strength of the internal rodholders ((WHICH ARWE NOT ANCHORED AT THEIR BOTTOM ENDS) is an engineering farce. This has nothing to do with Hobie's approval, this is just the laws of physics.

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2019 8:17 am 
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itiming wrote:
I much appreciate your posts. Your well documented/=extensive experience with TI motors is very useful/helpful.

My motor mount design goals are different than yours. i.e., no holes, no attachments, portable between different TI's and a few seconds to install/uninstall. My motor mount does what I ask from it. That said, I do not believe that any motor/mount, other than Hobie's, is certified for use, with the tag noting a 400 watt maximum. Based on the tag, adding a 2.5 hp gas motor to the TI is not sanctioned by Hobie.

Perhaps it is understood that posts of TI motor mounts, which support gas engines, assume a disclaimer that adding such power is beyond the Hobie TI design specs.

I think this forum is a terrific way to gain insight into the TI versatility. I enjoy seeing different approaches and am also interested in avoiding/uncovering failures. -- esp, if the failure cause is known.

It's completely up to you what motor mount you decide to use on your own boat. It's your boat and your safety.

That said, suggesting on a forum to use a PVC based motor mount secured only to the rod holders is not advisable. It's bad enough if you experience a failure on your own boat due to your own design, but when you suggest to others a mount based upon questionable engineering, you then assume some responsibility if others take your advice and experience a failure which could, for many reasons, be very dangerous.

You're correct, no gasoline-powered outboard motor is certified for use with the TI and anyone doing so is assuming a risk. I stated this very clearly in my post on motor mounts. That's because mounting a relatively heavy, powerful motor to a lightweight plastic boat not designed for such a motor is very tricky. To make it work reasonably safely, sound engineering and high-quality materials of sufficient strength must be used, and they must be very securely mounted. Mounting an outboard motor using brittle plastic designed only for plumbing, and then using an unsecured mount point is highly questionable engineering, and certainly not something to responsibly suggest to others.

I repeat, no one should be using a PVC outboard motor mount on a TI. Even the use of a sturdy metal mount securely fastened entails some risk. These boats were not designed to use motors producing over 400 watts. If you wish to mount a 2.5HP outboard motor which produces 1,864 Watts, do so only with sound engineering using quality metal components of sufficient strength mounted as securely as possible.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 6:51 pm 
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pro10is wrote:
It's completely up to you what motor mount you decide to use on your own boat. It's your boat and your safety.


Thank you for your statement above and your concern/priority for safety.

Yes, I do appreciate engineering, as I am a 'retired' professional engineer (civil/structural). The part I wish I was better at is the craft. This forum has examples of fine ideas, paired with excellent craftsmanship. One can also find less promising ideas, poorly executed--which, it seems, is the category you feel my post resides in. Also correct; PVC is not useful structurally for this application. It does provide me a useful, waterproof sheath for the structural components. I also had PVC left-over from several trailer projects, where I used a fusioneng suggestion by slip-lining wooden dowls and/or metal tubing inside PVC for kayak positioning/support.

The part of my education/training that I enjoyed most was testing things to destruction in the materials testing lab. FWIW, I did test my first motor mount prototype to failure--a learning experience I highly suggest; informative and entertaining. Based on that, I changed to a stronger wooden mounting board and added 3/8 inch stainless steel bolts, continuous, holding the lever arms together. One reason, this mount is working well over time, is due to using an idea that fusioneng posted about using spectra line between the lower unit and the stern--which has proved very effective. It helps manage the dynamic loads, especially when faced with pushing into heavy winds, waves and tides.

I believe I am safely enjoying the waterways. The motor & mount have performed fine over the past 3 years--averaging trips 3 times per week over 9 months each year (retirement is great), in salt and fresh water. In addition to the motor, the mount often carries rods and occasionally a manual down-rigger. Fatigue effects could show, and/or an overload could occur. I'll be sure to post and ID any deficiencies I uncover.

Best wishes for your time on the waterways. Thanks for your contributions, I appreciate your assistance.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 8:41 pm 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
All I ask you to do is take a look inside your hull at the rod holder tubes your mount fits in and put on your structural engineer's hat. Is the untethered bottom end of the rod holder tube structurally robust enough?

You mention that testing to destruction is acceptable... I am not so sure if there is a possibility that a catastrophic structural failure could occur to a rod holder.. in my views that could be a total loss making scenario.

It is of course up to you.

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 8:00 am 
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tonystott wrote:
All I ask you to do is take a look inside your hull at the rod holder tubes your mount fits in and put on your structural engineer's hat. Is the untethered bottom end of the rod holder tube structurally robust enough?

You mention that testing to destruction is acceptable... I am not so sure if there is a possibility that a catastrophic structural failure could occur to a rod holder.. in my views that could be a total loss making scenario.

It is of course up to you.



Image


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 11:57 am 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
so far so good eh

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 7:27 pm 
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tonystott wrote:
so far so good eh


Ya, eh: I am just dipping my toe into adding horsepower to the TI; others have advanced the practice far beyond my limited realm. . .


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2019 2:40 am 
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itiming wrote:
tonystott wrote:
All I ask you to do is take a look inside your hull at the rod holder tubes your mount fits in and put on your structural engineer's hat. Is the untethered bottom end of the rod holder tube structurally robust enough?

You mention that testing to destruction is acceptable... I am not so sure if there is a possibility that a catastrophic structural failure could occur to a rod holder.. in my views that could be a total loss making scenario.

It is of course up to you.



Image

That's fusioneng's old rig. He did things to a TI that no one in their right mind should ever attempt and he's admitted this himself.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2019 6:50 am 
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itiming wrote:
tonystott wrote:
All I ask you to do is take a look inside your hull at the rod holder tubes your mount fits in and put on your structural engineer's hat. Is the untethered bottom end of the rod holder tube structurally robust enough?

You mention that testing to destruction is acceptable... I am not so sure if there is a possibility that a catastrophic structural failure could occur to a rod holder.. in my views that could be a total loss making scenario.

It is of course up to you.



Image


is something wrong with this site, most of the pictures are display as a black box with a X.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2020 11:36 am 
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Hi Carol,
Did you ever post any pics to this (see below)? I'd love to see how you rigged the H Bar



lakewacsailors wrote:
Hi,
I made one for my tandem island and love the way it works. I sail solo from the back most of the time and this keeps the main sheet from hitting me in the head. I am not a super-experienced sailor or racer, but I do not notice any performance difference when I am using it or not using it, but it's definitely more comfortable.
It slides in & out of the the rod-holder holes behind the seat, and I secure with bungees so I did not change or damage anything by mounting it to to hull and it pops in & out in seconds. The sheet and bungees exert downward pressure so it stays securely in place (in any wind I'd be out in)
I used:
1 1/4" PVC
2 ea. 45 degree angle fittings
2 ea. 90 degree angle fittings
3 ea. 3" eye bolts
PVC glue
I will be visiting my boat tomorrow.I'll take pictures & post them over the weekend

Carol Lawlor
Lake Waccamaw, NC


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2020 3:37 am 
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Joined: Tue May 19, 2020 2:01 pm
Posts: 103
Location: SW Florida
pro10is wrote:
s9utct wrote:
Anyone know which H-Bar was mounted on the TI in the video? I know could achieve the same functionality with PVC, but the clean and professional looking install of the H-bar with the ability to add the H-rail rod holders or other accessories would be very handy.

It looks like he's using the H-Bar Pro Angler or the Hobie H-Bar Outback which he's adapted for use with the TI. Very nice, and far better than PVC.

If you want something less costly you can try the Feelfee Stand up bar which is highly rated.

There are also many more available such as the YakAttack line.

I know of no bar made specifically for the TI, so with any of these, as well as with PCV, you'll need to improvise a little, but usually you simply just bolt them onto the hull.

Are there any pictures of successful add of H-bar to Advennture island
I’m trying to visualize geometry
I have metal knees and hip and need to use arms to stand and sit in AI so need similar
How to install when also have sail and mast that interfere with geometry of folding and unfold so I can lever myself up and down.
Thanks for any reply.
I’m in Cape Coral, Florida, 400 miles of canals, Caloosahatchie river, 70+ miles S of Sarasota Fl, north of the Everglades area. Lots of places to explore not that far from shore


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2020 10:08 am 
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I am also interested in knowing which model of the hobie H bar will fit. I'd like to use it as a riser, and I'm also curious to know if you could put one of those super tiny marine propane grills on the h-bar to circumvent bbq restrictions (because you're on a "boat" technically). I'm not interested in any homebrew solutions... because I care how it looks.


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