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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 9:16 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 7:10 pm
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The rear right rudder line turning block on my 2017 tandem island is jammed by the rudder up/down line slipping between the block and its mount. It has happened before--and I got back underway by removing the two phillips head screws just in front of the rudder down handle; reaching into the hull and manually moving the jammed rudder line back up onto the pulley. My on-water fix did not last long, as the rudder line has scored the turning block pulley enough so that the rudder line follows this scored line to jam between the block and its housing when I pull on the rudder up/down handles.

Wondering if there is a recommended solution such as a replacement block available? I could not find a diagram on the kayaking parts and accessories catalog.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 9:23 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
This block?

Image
81450001 CHEEK BLOCK - HOBIE $ 11.29

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Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 7:09 pm 
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Yes, that is the block (held in place with two screws).

Thanks much for tracking this part down. I should be able to order a pair of them, now that you supplied the name/part number.

Sure appreciate the assistance offered by you (and many others) in this forum.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 6:09 pm 
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itiming wrote:
Yes, that is the block (held in place with two screws).

Thanks much for tracking this part down. I should be able to order a pair of them, now that you supplied the name/part number.

Sure appreciate the assistance offered by you (and many others) in this forum.


Stopped by the nearest Hobie dealer today; but they declined to order based on a minimum order requirement--which I was told would make the order too expensive for this small order of 2 cheek blocks.

Does anyone know where I could make an online order for 2 cheek blocks, based on their Hobie part number?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 8:17 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:14 pm
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Location: South Florida
Try Austin Kayak https://www.austinkayak.com/

Keith

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"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 7:53 pm 
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Chekika wrote:
Try Austin Kayak https://www.austinkayak.com/

Keith


Thanks for the tip. I sent them an email yesterday; but with weekend/busy season, no reply yet.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 7:59 pm 
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Location: South Florida
I'm not sure they will reply to an email. Give them a call with the part # in hand.

Keith

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2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

"Less is more" Anon


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 9:25 am 
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Chekika wrote:
I'm not sure they will reply to an email. Give them a call with the part # in hand.

Keith


Great advice--I was able to get through on the phone to ACK today and they placed the special order. They had received my email, but hadn't acted on it yet.

This issue with the turning block(s) getting scored doesn't appear too common, based on the forum.

FWIW--it happened after we launched out of a ramp in Florida, used by many airboats. The surface was water, but had vegetation on either side of the ramp. I dropped and locked the rudder down about 100 ft off the ramp, as I was unfurling the sail. The rudder was not in clear water, but dragging in water more mud than liquid, which put a lot of force pulling back on the rudder, making it hard to release/raise with the rudder line--which lead to the rudder line slipping off the block and wedge between the block and its housing.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 3:12 am 
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Location: Brisbane Australia
I have a 2015 Hull purchased in January 2017 and have experienced this exact issue. The up-haul line has scored the cheek block and has been jammed between the wheel and the block repeatedly. As my boat is still within the 2-year warranty from date of purchase, my Hobie Dealer is treating this as a warranty claim and has ordered the new cheek blocks for me. The comment from itiming about the dealer not wanting to order the blocks is a concern. Perhaps a call to Hobie will sort this out as a no cost warranty fix. If you have a 2017 Hull, your boat is still under warranty and this is clearly a design defect.

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Terry
SE Queensland, AU
TI owner since 2014; sailor since I was a kid.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 3:23 pm 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
LATERAL THINKING....

I believe the CAUSE needs attention rather than replacing the block, which will in turn be damaged unless the cause is corrected.

In my case, I discovered that the rudder up/down line was twisting in the rear of the hull, hugely increasing the tension on the lines. This in turn caused (in my opinion) damage to the block (as well as difficulty fully lowering the rudder blade, adding strain to the rudder lines themselves.

I solved the problem by removing the block up in the gunwale behind the front crossbar (filling in the small holes) and relocating the block to just behind the front hatch, about 6 inches below the deck. I then added a swivel (designed for fishing lines - I suspect my 100 pound breaking strain one was a trifled overkill!), and added extension to the rudder up/down line.

Now my rudder goes up and down with a satisfying clunk, and with it fully seated, steering is beautiful again.

I haven't felt the need to do the same on the other side.

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker and Hangkai outboard
only cool people follow the (non-magnetic) titanium weight-loss program! lol.)


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 8:16 pm 
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tonystott wrote:
LATERAL THINKING....

I believe the CAUSE needs attention rather than replacing the block, which will in turn be damaged unless the cause is corrected.


Here is a pict of the two rear rubber up/down pulley's I replaced:
Image

The cause of the pulleys getting scored (and the rudder up/down line jamming between the pulley housing and the pulley) happened when I lowered the rudder while the sail was up. I didn't realize that there was a mud layer a few inches below the surface. This mud layer exerted a large enough force on the rudder line to score the pulley.

As you note, there could have been rudder line twisting (that I was unaware of), but the replacement install went smoothly -- and the rudder operates as well as new.


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