Rudder up, track straight?

I just had an issue today with my (new to me) 2012 AI (kayak only). I was headed out to go fishing and had to traverse some kelp beds. No big deal, I pulled the Mirage, pulled up the rudder, and paddled like a regular kayak.

Once I cleared the first kelp bed, I noticed I was pulling to port. After a quick assessment, I realized that the 2011+ rudder design still allows steering from the assembly, unlike the older twist and stow.

So... what's the solution? Is there a way to lock the rudder assembly or tiller, so that the kayak tracks straight? Having to adjust the rudder after every few paddles was annoying and very slow.

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'12 Adventure Island

It might surprise you, but I believe that Islands are more directionally stable going backwards than forwards!

Make this simple test. Paddle backwards with rudder up, and see how much less steering correction you need.

Of course, with rudder down, this is no longer the case. My theory is that the current design results in a more responsive hull which is more ready to respond to rudder input.

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker

thats a good one, if you knew that you would be paddling all the time you could pull the pin and strap it on the back like its designed, but just for random times i would think if the steering lever points straight forward when the rudder is straight maybe you could rig up a piece of shock cord to the boat and when its needed just hook it to the steering lever, of course you would need to have the Hobie steering knob installed or a small hook on the shock cord that would fit in the threaded hole..

There is a way to steer with your feet if so inclined. You would need to make an axillery steering device. Dirt cheep and not hard to do. It can be stored out of the way on you boat ready to deploy in seconds as needed. I made one, but mine is hand held. Can be done either way. You will need two long pieces of spectra cord and a pcv rod about 1-2 feet long.

There is just room enough to run another spectra line through the holes in the rudder that the current steering line runs through. You will need something like a solid toothpick to push the new lines through. Tie one on the right and one on the left. Then run the lies up to the hull cockpit where your feet are. Attach each line to the opposite end of the pcv pipe. Roll it up when not in use and secure it to the bungees in the dry-well behind the set. Lines remain attached to the rudder. This serves as backup system should one of your rudder lines fail.

I have another line that I secured as a back up rudder down. Give me security when going offshore. You won't need that for steering but it's nice to have. Everything stores out of the way.

If this doesn't make sense let me know and I can take a picture of make a quick, crude video.

Vetgam

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Greg

2016 AI - Spinn & Jib

“Out of sight of land the sailor feels safe. It is the beach that worries him.”
– Charles G. Davis

Thanks for the responses!

The hull design isn't the issue. The problem is that the current rudder assembly (rudder mount and pivot) sits in the water even with the rudder fin in the up position. Paddling backwards won't help if the rudder assembly is still controlling the boat.

Using bungies to lock the handle might be an option, but the Hobie steering handle DOES NOT point forward when travelling forward; it's pointed roughly at the 2 o'clock position. Full to port puts the handle at roughly the 11 o'clock position from the boat's center line. This still might be my only option.

Creating a foot steer system sounds awesome, but it's a bit more committed than I'd like to be right now. Would still love to see the set up though!

Any other ideas out there?

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'12 Adventure Island

You are right eelkram. I've noticed the same that even with the rudder up, tracking is affected by the position of the tiller. It occurred with the old twist and stow rudder as well.
It is possible to lock the tiller by swapping out the bolt that comes with the tiller knob accessory for a slightly longer one, and epoxy it to the knob. As the tiller handle is tapped all the way through, a few extra turns of the knob screws the bolt down to contact the hull and locks the tiller. Just make sure the bolt is screwed back up before using the tiller or you will end up with semi circular scratch marks.

Hm... I never thought of this as a possible issue, I'm definitely going to have to look at the rudder more carefully next time I'm on my Outback - when I try to paddle it with the rudder raised it has a mean left hook! Spend almost as much time correcting the direction as paddling forward. I just assumed it was to do with the hull shape...

On my TI, though, if I'm going over shallow stuff I just uncleat it and leave it down. If it hits something it'll push up but still be in the water and usable. Gives me a much straighter track than with it raised. My assumption has been that when paddling I'm moving relatively slowly so the rudder bumping against something shouldn't be an issue. I suppose a 1/4 mile of really abrasive oyster bed or similar might be a concern though... I do have to tweak the steering a bit on occasion but the TI's doesn't seem to drift much (compared to the Outback) - maybe down to tighter rudder lines?

If the drive is in the well...drag (forward) will cause a hull to turn hard. If you paddle, be sure the drive(s) is removed and if possible put the plug in the well.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Hadn't considered that. I normally take the drive out if I'm paddling very far since it usually means I'm in VERY shallow water, but I don't think I've ever used the plug on my Outback. I imagine the open well could be almost as disruptive as the drive. Will have to try that.