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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 5:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2016 5:42 pm
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The v-brace is held down by a steel pin that is threaded on both ends. The bottom end goes into a brass threaded insert that appears to be molded into the hull.

Yesterday the brass part sheared in half.

[img][https://goo.gl/photos/Qc4tV2RG5PX1eqyv5]

It sheared right at the end of the steel pin (which I did not move) and the pin is not sheared. Others have mentioned that not many threads from this pin should be above the v-brace lock nut, but mine had about 3 threads showing, so I am guessing that it was not in all the way, which adds to the stress on the brass part.

Another post ("2015 TI water leak") shows there are two such inserts and they are plugged on the underside (and that's where their leak was). This insert holds a large fraction of the force of the mast and we were in strong but not crazy winds when it broke.

Assuming I can get a new insert, my main question is how to get the other half out of the hull?

Also wondering why this insert is brass... I know it is in salt water a bunch, but it needs to hold a great deal of force I think...


Last edited by ericbrewer on Tue Sep 06, 2016 9:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 8:34 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
Posts: 2718
Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
You need to contact the dealer, that piece is not repairable. You need a new hull.
Normally that brass insert is pretty solid, this is the first one I have heard of breaking that way. Normally it's that 1/4-20 stud that sheers off (usually repairable). Normally all that stuff works fine on most boats with just the stock sail set. Some of us with big sailsets have extra bracing installed down there to strengthen that area, in my case I have a alum plate epoxied down backed up my the mirage opening. It's easily removed if I ever sell the boat, actually this is the second TI that same plate was installed in.
You simply don't need it unless your trying to fly 250sqft plus of sail, the stock system normally works fine with just the main.
hope this helps
FE


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2016 5:41 pm 
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Turns out this an older boat than 2015 and it is no longer under warranty. Dealer agrees it needs a new hull, at my expense.

So I decided to try a repair since I have nothing to lose. Here is what I tried, and it survived one good test so far.

Most of the insert is still in the hull. It had a non-brass piece inside it, presumably to prevent water flow (?), so that even though both the inside and the outside are threaded, you can't see through it.

I carefully drilled out that piece using a protective nylon spacer and a 1/8" drill bit to do a pilot hole and then a little larger bit to widen the hole. I then cleaned up the threads with a hand-tapping device for 1/4"-20 threads. This lead to a clean brass insert threaded all the way through.

I then put a 2" SS flat-head machine screw up through the bottom, though mast receptacle and the v-brace and then a lock nut. The flat head is pretty much flush with the hull and fits the hole perfectly. This is probably not the right kind of SS, but it is what I could get on labor day weekend.

On this first pass I did not use any loctite or any sealing gel. I took it out and it works great so far with no leaking.
With the new bolt going all the way through, I think this should actually be stronger. I could also add a plate or something as suggested by the earlier post. (I am using the stock sail.)

My plan is to redo the bolt with something to better seal the hole and also something to fill the gap left by the missing brass part (although I guess I could put the broken half back in as a spacer).

Would love recommendations on how best to seal this bolt and on what kind of SS bolt to use (since it is in the salt water). I assume blue loctite would be good as well.

Plus any feedback on why this was a terrible idea is welcome too ;) [but the alternative is a new hull, which is still an option]


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2016 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2014 10:40 am
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Location: Blacklick, Ohio
Even if the hull is older than 2015 your dealer should still try and submit a warranty claim. Hobie is typically very generous with regards to warranty replacements, even when the boat is beyond the typical warranty period.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2016 6:19 pm 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
Glad I don't live near that dealer. What a crock response. Maybe you should mention their name as a warning to others.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 1:55 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 06, 2013 3:04 am
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'So I decided to try a repair since I have nothing to lose'.

Put in a warranty claim you have even less to lose. I have found Hobie warranty fantastic even when I wasn't expecting it, give it a go they can only say the same as you dealer, which I find very poor.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 6:41 am 
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Trying the warranty path a second time... will let you know. (thanks!)

Still looking for guidance on sealing/locking the bolt.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 8:21 am 
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ericbrewer wrote:
Trying the warranty path a second time... will let you know. (thanks!)

Still looking for guidance on sealing/locking the bolt.


I'd possibly try a different warranty path rather than through your 'dealer', perhaps contact a different dealer if there is one nearby or contact Hobie directly and take their guidance of how to proceed.


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