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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 12:38 pm 
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I am starting my journey to get fully informed on maintaining, repairing and sailing my 2 Hobie Island boats.

I was hoping fellow pilots could share first hand experience with using structural adhesives and 2 part epoxies.

If you could carry 10 oz. of one product on a 5 month trip in the wilds,What would it be ?

Your thoughts an links are appreciated

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07 Island Adventure
14 Tandem Island
Avid Hangglider pilot 20+ years.Thanks to Hobie we can take half a HG wing and fly across the water as well.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 9:52 pm 
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Hobie kayak hulls are made out of polyethylene. This plastic is very tough but polyethylene is notorious for being extremely difficult to successfully bond with most adhesives. Most such repairs will fail.

The closest adhesive I've found which has limited success with polyethylene (depending upon the application) is Loctite Epoxy Plastic Bonder. It's basically epoxy with a bit more flexibility and a plastic chemical bonding agent. JB Weld and other adhesive manufacturers also sell similar versions of it. I would not rely on this very long for a permanent hull repair, but it may serve for a temporary repair in an urgent situation.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 4:37 pm 
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Location: Yamba NSW
I'd take 100 mile an hour tape and reapply as needed takes up little space is cheap and sticks to anything. used it on long canoe trips with great results if it starts to lift rip it off and replace and go again.
Just my thoughts cheers


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2018 3:23 pm 
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Curious if 3M 5200 is any good 18 dollars for 10 oz. ?

5200 10 oz. Marine Adhesive/Sealant
4.6 out of 5
(30) Write a Review
Questions & Answers (20)
Soft and flexible formula that holds up to salt water
Designed for use in both wet and dry locations
Easy to apply using a standard caulking gun
$17.97 /each

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07 Island Adventure
14 Tandem Island
Avid Hangglider pilot 20+ years.Thanks to Hobie we can take half a HG wing and fly across the water as well.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 8:21 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:13 pm
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Robie wrote:
Curious if 3M 5200 is any good 18 dollars for 10 oz. ?

5200 10 oz. Marine Adhesive/Sealant
4.6 out of 5
(30) Write a Review
Questions & Answers (20)
Soft and flexible formula that holds up to salt water
Designed for use in both wet and dry locations
Easy to apply using a standard caulking gun
$17.97 /each


Although 3M 5200 is rated for polyethylene, it has a relatively poor shear strength of only 48psi when used with it. 5200 is one of the best marine adhesive sealants I know of, but not much sticks to polyethylene. Not to mention 5200 takes days to fully cure, although there is a "quick" cure version of it.

3M 5200 Performance Properties:

Image

Polyethylene is extremely difficult if not nearly impossible to properly glue.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2018 9:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
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Location: Escondido
Robie wrote:
I was hoping fellow pilots could share first hand experience with using structural adhesives and 2 part epoxies.

If you could carry 10 oz. of one product on a 5 month trip in the wilds,What would it be ?
I've used a couple of products successfully on Hobie's HDPE -- Loctite 3035 and 3M DP 8010. I've also used several other adhesives that have failed to bond under stress. Here's what it looks like:
Image

Anytime I try an adhesive out, I also run a sample to assess the strength. Here's the 3035 bonding 2 Hobie sample PE disks that I tried to separate with a chisel. As you can see, they didn't separate.
Image

I've used both of these products on high stress (drivewell and cam columns) repairs and limited bonding surface area projects with no problems. Of the two, the 3035 is slighely easier to work with because it uses a 5:1 ratio rather than the 8010's 10:1 mixing ratio. It's also a newer product that replaced a very good Loctite 3030.

You have to get these at an industrial supplier like RS Hughes (or Amazon). They're not cheap, they have a shelf life and they are not exactly easy to work with. Work life is about 4 to 5 minutes. They should be used outside and should not contact your skin. Other than that, they are great!

Here are a couple of small projects:
This drivewell insert is bonded to the drivewell plug for easy removal using DP 8010:
Image

This is a drivewell streamline project with 3035. These inserts are only held on place by their edges and are solid and stable:
Image

So far, nothing else I have tried has bonded well. 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 5:25 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 6:20 pm
Posts: 146
Location: Pula - Sardinia
searching I found this post. I noticed that there is a new product named Loctite 3038 that could be a new version of the 3030 and 3035
any new about this 3038?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2021 5:21 am 
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Oliver305 wrote:
In my view, 3M marine adhesive sealant is also of high quality. If you're looking for a fast-curing, permanently bonding marine sealant, this 3M product will not disappoint.

Please see my post above. 3M 5200 marine adhesive sealant is one of the best sealants you can buy for marine use, but it does not adhere well to polyethylene.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2021 10:46 am 
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Sardinian Islander wrote:
searching I found this post. I noticed that there is a new product named Loctite 3038 that could be a new version of the 3030 and 3035
any new about this 3038?


Good evening,
Indeed in Italy I cannot find 3035, but 3038... so wondering if the same or not.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2021 6:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2015 9:30 am
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Location: Kansas, USA
I read somewhere of using plastic milk jugs, if plastic milk jugs are still available. Heating the plastic to fill cracks or voids. I'd experiment first on your neighbors.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2021 8:57 am 
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Quote:
I'd experiment first on your neighbors.


I can hear the screams already...


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2021 3:15 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2015 9:30 am
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Location: Kansas, USA
I was curious how the milk jug would work. I took a heat gun to one and the plastic became malleable and tacky and from the hazy color to clear. A heat gun may get it to stick but probably not flow like it should, maybe use the heat gun to prep the surfaces but it would probably take a flame to finish the job, and a little prior experimentation.

And than this

Milk jugs are usually made from high density polyethylene, or HDPE. In the milk jug manufacturing process, HDPE pellets are usually mixed with recycled HDPE flakes. Because HDPE loses its durability after it has been used, only a limited amount of the recycled flakes can be used.

So maybe some HDPE pellets which you can get on amazon.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2021 5:49 am 
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If you wish to make small repairs to the TI hull, forget about using milk jugs. Purchase the Hobie - Kc Welder Pro With Rod Stock

This will work a lot better.

Go to here on YouTube to see a tutorial on how to properly use this.

I would not recommend it for large hull breaches.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2023 11:36 am 
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We have a hole near the mast where the sail retainer clipped on and was ripped out. We have some plastic saved from another hole we created and will use that for a plastic weld to completely fill in the hole. I bought a cheap plastic welder form Harbor Freight some years back and have done this kind of repair on several kayaks using material from the kayak itself and it worked well. I will, however back up both sides of the hole with SS fender washers just to make sure.


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