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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2020 11:49 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 06, 2020 11:16 am
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I have an opportunity to purchase (probably very cheaply) a Tandem Island. The main problem is it's been sitting in the open for quite some time and many of the exposed parts are rotted away. At first glance it appears that everything is replaceable, but I don't know what i don't know, and could use some wisdom from anyone that has done a rebuild.

What obviously needs replacing: Handles, Shockcords, Seats, possibly the trampolines
For the rudder: The tubes are there, but at least 2 control lines for the rudder are broken or missing. We couldn't get it to go up down, or left right. The steering handles seem ok, but definitely have seen come UV corrosion.

The hatches appear to seal, although there was some water in the bow.

It comes with the beach dolly (that cradles the AMAs).

I think the rigging for the sail is in ok shape. The lines seem to be free from any obvious wear. We weren't able to inspect the mast and sail as they weren't with the boat.

There is one newish Mirage drive and one that looks functional. No sign of the plugs.

Has anyone brought one of these back to life? It seems pretty doable as long as we get the right parts. Are there any gotchas or hidden things we should inspect for?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2020 5:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 29, 2007 4:43 am
Posts: 88
My biggest concern with buying something like that would be hull leaks in "un-repairable" locations. The two I'm aware of (there may be more), directly under the mast holder and front of the mirage drive well. These areas carry load and flex in use, consequently, it can be very difficult to create an effective repair that won't quickly start leaking again. There are people that have successfully made these repairs, but more fail at it then succeeded. Finding these leaks will require either filling the hull with water and/or slightly pressurizing it.

Pretty much most other things can be repaired or replaced relatively easily. Just be aware, Hobie replacement parts aren't inexpensive, so you may want to price out what it will take to rebuild it. Buying a new sail and mast will set you back $1,800.

Good luck.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2020 10:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 17, 2020 5:36 pm
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There aren't any "unrepairable" sections on a rotomolded kayak. I just repaired the front of the drivewell crack in my AI, and as a total amateur with a couple beers in me, I had an acceptable repair in about an hour or so. The plastic welding thing is really a lot easier than it sounds, if you can hot glue you can repair any small cracks in the hull.


Personally, after dealing with an old and semi-beat up AI, would estimate my time and effort as:

Replacing all bungies and two broken padeyes: 1 hour, $25 materials
Replacing rudder cables: 2-4 hours. I bet It would take less than 1 if I did it again though.
Trampolines: $500 (Skip it. Hakas are better and cheaper. Don't buy the vinyl ones on ebay)
Lines (furling and main sheet): half hour, tops, and $40ish?
Hull Welding: 1 hour, $82 for the welding kit. Kinda fun, good prep is key. Use the stainless mesh too. There's a youtube somewhere detailing it.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2020 6:47 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:13 pm
Posts: 431
I would be concerned about excessive UV damage to the main hull if it's been so badly exposed. Excessive UV is brutal, if the main hull is compromised it may develop leaks.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2020 10:27 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 29, 2007 4:43 am
Posts: 88
tomcfitz wrote:
There aren't any "unrepairable" sections on a rotomolded kayak. I just repaired the front of the drivewell crack in my AI, and as a total amateur with a couple beers in me, I had an acceptable repair in about an hour or so. The plastic welding thing is really a lot easier than it sounds, if you can hot glue you can repair any small cracks in the hull.


Personally, after dealing with an old and semi-beat up AI, would estimate my time and effort as:

Replacing all bungies and two broken padeyes: 1 hour, $25 materials
Replacing rudder cables: 2-4 hours. I bet It would take less than 1 if I did it again though.
Trampolines: $500 (Skip it. Hakas are better and cheaper. Don't buy the vinyl ones on ebay)
Lines (furling and main sheet): half hour, tops, and $40ish?
Hull Welding: 1 hour, $82 for the welding kit. Kinda fun, good prep is key. Use the stainless mesh too. There's a youtube somewhere detailing it.


Let us know how long it holds up. I’m very active in some kayak fishing forums and I have NEVER seen anyone simply plastic weld the front drive crack where it held over the long term. Anyone that was successful used a combination of weld; screen reinforcement and highly specialized epoxy designed for bonding HDPE. If you simply welded it with a plastic welder and it holds up under extended pedaling, you will be the first person I’m aware of.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 9:45 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 17, 2020 5:36 pm
Posts: 30
atv223 wrote:

Let us know how long it holds up. I’m very active in some kayak fishing forums and I have NEVER seen anyone simply plastic weld the front drive crack where it held over the long term. Anyone that was successful used a combination of weld; screen reinforcement and highly specialized epoxy designed for bonding HDPE. If you simply welded it with a plastic welder and it holds up under extended pedaling, you will be the first person I’m aware of.



I used the stainless steel screen as well as welding it. I also welded the inside as well, though not as thoroughly, since its damn hard to get up in there.


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