Hobie Forums

Hull repairs
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Author:  kayakingglenn [ Fri Mar 14, 2008 4:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Hull repairs

While upgrading to the new rudder system I found that I have to move one of my RAM balls. Does anyone know the best way to fill in the holes?
I thought about putting some goop in the holes and then putting a small rectangular black patch over the area. Any ideas?

Author:  kepra [ Fri Mar 14, 2008 6:58 pm ]
Post subject: 

I have little success with patches or additions..One on the regulars recommend silicone II or 3m scotch weld 8010 I asked the same question.
There seems to be the abilty to buy a rod of this material and melt with a type of glue gun...I saw one at the dealer shop area..have no idea if it is for smelting in cracks..I called a place in my area that will accomplish this and the price was high..My Wilderness has a crack I would like to fix and weld other parts to the floor..Drilling and mounting additions to the
hobie ... would be nice to get process instructions ...so to say..Might as well use plumbers putty till you figure something..least it wont' leave residue all over.... plus not stick. I want to mount brackets ect. to the rear hull of the AI..If I know for sure how to seal bolt holes and glue support material ...that would help

Author:  KayakingBob [ Fri Mar 14, 2008 8:34 pm ]
Post subject: 

I'd just put back in short bolts and tighten. You never know when you might use the holes again.

Kayaking Bob

Author:  kayakingglenn [ Fri Mar 14, 2008 8:36 pm ]
Post subject:  Hull repairs

A use well nuts from kayak fishing stuff to attach accessories to my Hull.
So I just end up with 7/16" round holes to fill if I have to make changes and this is the first time I've had to make changes because one of the well nuts interferes with the routing of the plastic tube that holds the line that locks the rudder down. I'm going try to find some rubber plugs that I plugged them with cover them over with a rectangular black rubber cover and then epoxy the entire area . Those are my thoughts anyway I hope someone has some other ideas? :?:

Author:  Roadrunner [ Fri Mar 14, 2008 11:20 pm ]
Post subject: 

I can tell you that 3M Scotchweld DP 8010 works on Polyethylene. I reinforced some partially severed cam columns with it almost 18 months ago and nothing has moved since.

I also bonded my plastic drink holder to it at the same time without a problem.

On a test patch I tested its strength bonding 2 pieces of poly. The plastic broke but the bond did not fail.

I've failed with various other common epoxies -- have found nothing else that works like this stuff.

It cost about $20 -- not cheap. And it is hard to dispense without purchasing an applicator, but it can be done. Working time is less than 5 minutes (instructions say 10). It's great stuff though!

You probably don't need this just to fix your hole, but if you have other projects lined up and can work fast....

For just filling the hole, why not try the Hobie plastic welding rod (in matching color)? I believe it's available free or for a very nominal charge. 8)

Author:  Rio Dan [ Thu Mar 20, 2008 7:26 pm ]
Post subject: 

Roadrunner wrote:
I can tell you that 3M Scotchweld DP 8010 works on Polyethylene...

...It cost about $20 ...

Thanks for the info RR, but where can I buy this wonderstuff? When I Google it all I can find is a "kit" that sells for $110. :shock:

FYI, it's not to repair my my boats, they're doing find (crossed fingers), it's for my other hobby.

Author:  Roadrunner [ Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:41 pm ]
Post subject: 

You don't really need the kit, just the epoxy. You can mix it by hand. To dispense, just push each tube down by the same distance and your ratio should be preserved. For the smaller tube, I used a thin dowel or small watercolor paint brush. Good luck! 8)

Author:  kepra [ Mon Mar 24, 2008 8:10 pm ]
Post subject: 

[quote="Roadrunner"]You don't really need the kit, just the epoxy. You can mix it by hand. To dispense, just push each tube down by the same distance and your ratio should be preserved. For the smaller tube, I used a thin dowel or small watercolor paint brush. Good luck! 8)[/quote]


Reading old post on KFS as to slim vs wider then speed..water line lenght = hull speed of ?? sqrt of 15/16 x 1.75 or 1.34 or 1.0 = approximately 5.4 knots which = 5.5/6 mph..so my question is? with 8-12 knot winds what is the AI's mph? My wife continues to paddle in stright lines. I zig zag up down and across.. end up in the same locations.. see more lake by far and feel less beat up due to less paddling. Across wind she cannot keep up. Can a great paddler in a fast boat keep up the pace with AI in all directions? I ask this cause I still have not gotten the GPS and am sure it is common knowledge..Often I feel as if my sail advantage
is not producing enough advantage to merit the loading / unloading sequence..I sure do love it when I feel wind propelled with low peddling efforts. Has experience with AI decreased my speed sensitivity? Am I moving faster than I think? just in various directions ...Way off the posted subject ..as this question has been beat to ground

Author:  Roadrunner [ Mon Mar 24, 2008 11:25 pm ]
Post subject: 

Kepra, perhaps we're drifting off the subject here, but first of all, the hull speed formula is for displacement hulls. Your AI doesn't have one, so you can take it with a grain of salt. The AI can get up to about 10 or 11 mph (occasionally more) -- way beyond the "hull speed" realm.

If there is no wind or you don't want to sail some days, you can just take the boat out in the "Adventure" mode so you can pedal with your wife anywhere she wants to paddle. That's about as quick and simple as it gets.

I like to strap the small sail alongside sometimes when there is no time for rigging the full AI or the appearance of wind is uncertain. When you want to sail, just plant your mast and slap the sheet on.
This gives you the advantages of both worlds, just not quite the same speed or stability as the AI. Here's what an Adventure mode, furling small sail combo looks like with the sail up (below).


BTW, who says you can't pedal straight upwind with your sail up?

The most important thing is enjoy yourself on the water. With the AI you've got many choices on how to set it up and use it -- it's an amazingly versatile boat! 8)

Author:  kepra [ Tue Mar 25, 2008 6:24 pm ]
Post subject: 

Thanks for the info. I have realized the other options , but was baffeled by the hull displacment. Not the forumla, I did not understand that Adventure was not of that hull type with the ama's attached. I asked you cause I saw a post in that old forum of the hull subject. Also thanks for settling the mph. I have often tried to determine, without the gps.

Author:  Rio Dan [ Wed Mar 26, 2008 6:25 am ]
Post subject: 

So, RR, where did you buy that glue? :wink:

Author:  hawkeye [ Thu Mar 27, 2008 12:59 am ]
Post subject:  Patching, filling holes, repairing cracks...

I've had great results just welding my plastic kayaks using a heat gun and a thin strip of polyethylene cut from clear tubing purchased at the hardware store. I save all cutouts from installing new hatches, etc. too, cut them into strips for welding so I can match (or contrast) colors. I found this solution on the web a few years ago. Last year I picked up a brand new kayak that had been holed by a forklift (list $799) from my local dealer for $50. The repair (it was one big, damn ugly hole) took only 1/2 hour. Even though it's not invisible up close it's plenty tough. Do this outdoors or with plenty of ventilation.

Author:  Roadrunner [ Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:39 pm ]
Post subject: 

Rio Dan wrote:
So, RR, where did you buy that glue? :wink:

I got it at "R.S. Hughes", industrial supplier. You have one in Sacramento and Oakland. Phone 877-774-8443. I understand Granger also carries it. Or call 3M (800-362-3550) for another source. 8)

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